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Topic: Oil for steel guitar? |
Jim Johnson
From:
Rogersville, Al. 35652
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Posted 28 Sep 2010 5:20 am |
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what is a good Oil for a steel? Can I use the same
oil for the rollers and to oil between the strings on both ends of the guitar? thanks in advance.
Jim |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 28 Sep 2010 6:54 am
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| I would recommend "Tri-Flow". It is now available at WalMart in the bicycle department. |
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Carl Kilmer
From:
East Central, Illinois
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Posted 28 Sep 2010 6:57 am
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Hi Jim, this should be posted in the Pedal Steel listing.
If you go there and scroll down a few pages, you'll find it.
I and others use Tri Flo, some use sewing mach. oil (3 in 1),
while others like something else. Don't ever use WD40 or equiv.
Tri Flo can be purchased in most Super Wal-Mart stores in the
bicycle parts section, most gun shops, or bicycle stores. It can be
used anywhere on the steel that ever requires a little lubrication.
Carl
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal |
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Greg Cutshaw
From:
Corry, PA, USA
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Chris Sims
From:
Middleburg,Florida, USA
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Posted 28 Sep 2010 9:59 am
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Thanks for these posts guys.
About a year ago I read Greg's article mentioning TRI FLOW, and couldn't find it.
I went to walmart and had trouble finding the 3 in 1 oil I was there for but did get it.
Now I know to go look in the bicycle parts section, and that they have the tri flow. Thanks so much. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 28 Sep 2010 10:47 am
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Don't use 3-in-1. Like ANY oil (including Tri Flow if you buy the wrong one) it will break down over time and ALL of them collect dirt, actually negating the lubrication action and making it worse.
If you buy Tri Flow, get the DRY version.
Tri Flow (dry) is available at most independent bicycle shops; but there are equivalents:
1. Blaster TDL Dry Lube (Home Depot stocks it)
2. DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Dry, Wax Lubricant (local hardware stores and lately I've seen it almost everywhere!)
DuPont actually holds the trademark rights to "Teflon"; chemically, Teflon or "PTFE" is a waxlike substance, but in certain formulae it's VERY hard and durable (cooking pans).
You DO NOT want one with mineral oil in it - that's just another dirt-trap.
And all parts need to be flushed with Naphtha (Ronson lighter fluid in the yellow and blue squeeze bottle IS Naphtha). Squirt it through the changer from top AND bottom (plus all other moving parts) several times to remove grease, dirt and other gunk) it also is great for removing sticker residue).
Naphtha will NOT hurt lacquer, acrylic lacquer, "nitro" (all terms that mean the same thing nowadays - "acrylic lacquer", the only kind you can buy in stores and the only kind used on instruments), enamels (some 50's finishes), polyesters, polyurethanes...just try to keep it off plastics (mask them if possible) but incidental contact that's quickly removed from plastic isn't a problem.
Flushing is necessary as the lube will do nothing if you don't get the OLD oil out (oiling and reoiling...and reoiling...is the WORST possible lubrication method short of...oh, using rubber cement or something  ).
I've read decades of recommendations - 3-in-1, gun oil, and I used sewing machine oil for decades as a part-time guitar tech. But times have changed and I am aware of no techs around here that use oils for anything EXCEPT potentiometers and switches - and those oils are PART of a contact-cleaning material; those parts need lubrication to keep the contacts from being destroyed and to improve current flow.
But mechanical parts are all lubed with dry PTFE nowadays.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Dickie Whitley
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Posted 28 Sep 2010 1:31 pm Confused, maybe?
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| I just want to get this straight before I buy. I was thinking in another thread someone said to avoid the dry, and here we're saying get the dry. Did I miss something? Any guidance appreciated. |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 28 Sep 2010 1:42 pm
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Jim, I'm sure Tri Flow is a good product. Don't know, never used it. I've been using a product called Super Oil, made by Gunk, on my steel guitars for 30 years. It was recommended by Charlie Stepp who manufactured Derby steels. I figured he knew what he was talking about. Several other steel guitar techs use this also. Before that, I used 3 in 1 oil. I never noticed any detrimental effects from using either one.
It only takes a small amount of lubrication and you can buy a little application bottle called a needle oiler to apply it with. |
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Kevin Hatton
From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
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Posted 28 Sep 2010 2:00 pm
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| Very good about Naptha. A must for damage free cleaning. I went to the Home Depot to get some ands they said that they didn't know what it was. I'm dying laughing. |
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Dickie Whitley
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Posted 28 Sep 2010 2:19 pm OK, found the link...
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| I found the link I mentioned earlier and what is said about the "dry" makes sense not to use it. The "dry" contains paraffin wax, which I certainly wouldn't want on my steel. So it seems the "wet" is what I need. Sorry to confuse anyone (including me). |
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David Nugent
From:
Gum Spring, Va.
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Posted 29 Sep 2010 3:21 am
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| I also have been using sewing machine oil for years. If you cannot find the oiler with the extension spout, try a quilt or sewing shop. |
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Jim Cohen
From:
Philadelphia, PA
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 29 Sep 2010 6:47 am
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| Greg Cutshaw wrote: |
Here's how I did it:
Greg |
Greg,
Clear, concise instructions. Very detailed as well. Everybody can follow those and not ever experience lube issues again.
I also loved your nice,clear BIG pictures, Greg. Can't get enough details of an extremely well-built guitar.
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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Bill Howard
From:
Indiana, USA
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Posted 29 Sep 2010 8:30 am Atf
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| I don't understand why people don't understand how good a lube ATF is for Pedal Steel guitars,it does NOT gum up period,it is lightweight even has a cleaning agent in it. I'm a former Auto transmission Tech and it is one of the best,Just don't buy the cheap stuff some of that is only motor oil with Red dye in it. any quality ATF is great. |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 29 Sep 2010 11:35 am
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Bill, you know my feelings on ATF, we have discussed it. I love the stuff and use it on my guitar at present. What's good enough for a bunch of gears, bearings and clutches running at 3000+ RPM should be good enough for a changer mech.
It's a tad cheaper than Triflo and jet oil as well 
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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Don Brown, Sr.
From:
New Jersey
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Posted 29 Sep 2010 12:27 pm
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Hi Jim J,
Don't use anything other than a good grade light weight oil. I personally use 30 wt., for the initial assembly lube on the fingers and axle shafts in the Changers. Then from then on, I use nothing but a small amount of Singer Sewing Machine oil, and give a drop down between the fingers, with each string change, (while the old strings are off, and, with the return springs unhooked) so the oil can work it's way in and onto the axle shafts.
But any motor oil, machine oil, ATF, and others will work just as well, to keep them in as new condition.
Jerry O. is exactly right. I don't use anything, that drys up either! I can show you two axles out of a steel that was played long and hard since 1968, that the finger bores and Axles look to be brand spanking new, no scaring what so ever.. I can also show you a set of fingers out of a 2005 D-10 pedal steel, that didn't get lubed with a light oil. Those you wouldn't want to see.
Plus, to get all of the old lube out before using Tri-Flow, you'd want to do darn sight more than flush it out with anything, other than for taking it apart to clean off ALL of the old lube first. It's NOT the route to go for a steel that's previously been lubed with anything else.
Stick with what's been proven for well over 40 years.
Just my two cents worth.. Others opinions may vary!  |
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Bob Moore
From:
N. Rose, New York
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Posted 29 Sep 2010 6:14 pm lube
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| I use a bearing oil which works very well. It also has a small opening with extension for getting into small places and not making a mess. Thanks Bob |
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Mickey Adams
From:
Bandera Texas
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Posted 30 Sep 2010 5:37 am
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MobilJet II turbine engine oil, synthetic, light, no paraffin wax.... Perfect
_________________
ARTIST RELATIONS: MSA GUITARS
2017 MSA LEGEND XL D10, S10, Studio Pro S12 EXE9
Mullen G2, Rittenberry S10, Infinity D10, Zumsteel 8+9
Anderson, Buscarino, Fender, Roman Guitars, Sarno Octal, Revelation Preamps, BJS BARS, Lots of Blackface Fenders! |
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Bill Howard
From:
Indiana, USA
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Posted 30 Sep 2010 1:52 pm Atf
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| Bent Romnes wrote: |
Bill, you know my feelings on ATF, we have discussed it. I love the stuff and use it on my guitar at present. What's good enough for a bunch of gears, bearings and clutches running at 3000+ RPM should be good enough for a changer mech.
It's a tad cheaper than Triflo and jet oil as well |
Motor oil will gum up, SEW will sewing machine Oli I remember my grandmothers machine is was waxy where she used that stuff REALLY waxy, use what you like I would say Mickeys Jet oil is probably pretty good also if you get by the Jet store pick up a quart/gallon, but since Pep Boys or AutoZone doesn't sell it ATF works pretty good:) |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 30 Sep 2010 2:45 pm
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| Mickey Adams wrote: |
| MobilJet II turbine engine oil, synthetic, light, no paraffin wax.... Perfect |
Mickey, that is the next type of lube I will be using on my steel. I went out to the airport and bought a quart of it for $20. It had better be good!
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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John Bechtel
From:
Nashville, Tennessee, R.I.P.
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Posted 30 Sep 2010 8:37 pm
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The oil that Charles Stepp (Derby Guitars) recommended was/is “GUNK” Super Oil, available at Dollar General Stores. It works for me!!
_________________
<marquee> Go~Daddy~Go, (No), Go, It's your Break Time</marquee> L8R, jb
My T-10 Remington Steelmaster |
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Billy Carr
From:
Seminary, Mississippi, USA (deceased)
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Posted 1 Oct 2010 8:37 pm lube
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| Are there any drawbacks to using Remington "Rem Oil" with teflon? What about Dextron III ATF? Thanks. |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 2 Oct 2010 7:32 am
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Billy, I am currently using Dexron III ATF. After 3 or 4 months I see absolutely no ill effects from it, only good ones. The oil works its way UP through the fingers by capillary action, so much so that I occasionally have to wipe it off the top.
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 2 Oct 2010 10:12 am
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| Don Brown, Sr. wrote: |
Plus, to get all of the old lube out before using Tri-Flow, you'd want to do darn sight more than flush it out with anything, other than for taking it apart to clean off ALL of the old lube first. It's NOT the route to go for a steel that's previously been lubed with anything else. |
Amen to that. To get a changer clean, it MUST be disassembled and each part cleaned. Anything less is just a bandaid on the sympton. I use sewing machine oil to lube up with.
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
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Jim Bates
From:
Alvin, Texas, USA
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Posted 2 Oct 2010 7:18 pm
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For years I have used a band instrument valve oil or slide oil. It a special form of kersosene that has been processed to smell good and not become sticky.
Thanx,
Jim |
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