| Author |
Topic: Sho Bud S10 ???? |
Jamie Stoner
From:
Bowling Green, Kentucky
|
Posted 22 Aug 2010 6:30 pm |
|
I just bought this Sho Bud on Ebay...would like to know some specifics about the guitar. Serial #2911 Can anyone tell me what year it might be and other specs? What kind of tone did these have? I have wanted an S10 for a while...and you cant beat a blonde!!!!!LOL Thanks!
_________________
Michael Douchette's Franklin; Sho~Bud Fingertip D12; Sho Bud S10 6139 Serial #2911;1973 Fender Twin Reverb Silverface; Fender Cyber Twin; VZ Custom Telecaster; Epi Les Paul Custom Silverburst; Epi DOT; Copley Acoustic; Copley Acoustic Bass; Hammond E311 Organ; 1941 Chickering Baby Grand Piano, formerly owned by John Prine; 1921 Chickering Baby Grand 100th Anniv Quarter Grand |
|
|
 |
Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
|
Posted 22 Aug 2010 7:28 pm
|
|
Jamie, that one looks identical to a ShoBud 6139 that I owned from 1972 till 1976. I remember that the knee lever lowered the 2nd and 8th strings a half tone.
Same control knobs, same rack and barrel changer.
Go here and see what mine looked like in 1972
http://www.jacksonsteelguitar.com/shousyourbud.cfm
It sounded great. I will say typical ShoBud. Every report I have read about the 6139 says the same.
I wish I had never sold it.
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
|
|
|
Jamie Stoner
From:
Bowling Green, Kentucky
|
Posted 22 Aug 2010 7:37 pm
|
|
thanks Bent!! I have been wanting one of these for a long time...i wasn't really looking tonight it just happened..LOL I have had a Pro III Custom, a Roundfront Pro II, and a Professional, as well as the D12 Fingertip I currently have. None of them compared tone wise to the fingertip..its still my favorite! After that I would say was the Pro II, Professional, and the Pro III at the end.Im just hoping this one has the sound...and it will be a lot lighter to move around!!!LOL
_________________
Michael Douchette's Franklin; Sho~Bud Fingertip D12; Sho Bud S10 6139 Serial #2911;1973 Fender Twin Reverb Silverface; Fender Cyber Twin; VZ Custom Telecaster; Epi Les Paul Custom Silverburst; Epi DOT; Copley Acoustic; Copley Acoustic Bass; Hammond E311 Organ; 1941 Chickering Baby Grand Piano, formerly owned by John Prine; 1921 Chickering Baby Grand 100th Anniv Quarter Grand
Last edited by Jamie Stoner on 3 Oct 2010 6:22 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
|
|
Ben Elder
From:
La Crescenta, California, USA
|
Posted 22 Aug 2010 7:42 pm
|
|
I have #3196--same as yours right down to the purple-lined OHSC--and it was dated 1973, if I recall. (I think my D-10 #1096 was early 1972.)
Here's the link that led to this info:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=166611&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
I think Gene Haugh got overwhelmed with requests and I'm not sure he's still fielding requests. Most apparently were answered privately by email, but there's probably some telling info in the 11 pages of that thread.
_________________
"Gopher, Everett?" |
|
|
|
Jamie Stoner
From:
Bowling Green, Kentucky
|
Posted 22 Aug 2010 7:55 pm
|
|
so was this guitar a Pro I? if not what is the difference to a Pro I?
_________________
Michael Douchette's Franklin; Sho~Bud Fingertip D12; Sho Bud S10 6139 Serial #2911;1973 Fender Twin Reverb Silverface; Fender Cyber Twin; VZ Custom Telecaster; Epi Les Paul Custom Silverburst; Epi DOT; Copley Acoustic; Copley Acoustic Bass; Hammond E311 Organ; 1941 Chickering Baby Grand Piano, formerly owned by John Prine; 1921 Chickering Baby Grand 100th Anniv Quarter Grand |
|
|
|
Ben Elder
From:
La Crescenta, California, USA
|
Posted 22 Aug 2010 8:57 pm
|
|
(Sho-Bud experts, confirm or shoot this down...)
Technically, I think it's the same hardware as a "The Professional" D-10 although they seem not to have put the decal on 6139s (or maybe S-10s of the period.)
Ricky Davis, James Morehead and others can nail this down more precisely.
_________________
"Gopher, Everett?" |
|
|
|
b0b
From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
|
|
|
|
Jamie Stoner
From:
Bowling Green, Kentucky
|
Posted 22 Aug 2010 9:23 pm
|
|
Whats the best way to fix that endplate? or is there one? i figured Id get it to someone that knows what they are doing....and hope for the best!!!!only out $600 though....
_________________
Michael Douchette's Franklin; Sho~Bud Fingertip D12; Sho Bud S10 6139 Serial #2911;1973 Fender Twin Reverb Silverface; Fender Cyber Twin; VZ Custom Telecaster; Epi Les Paul Custom Silverburst; Epi DOT; Copley Acoustic; Copley Acoustic Bass; Hammond E311 Organ; 1941 Chickering Baby Grand Piano, formerly owned by John Prine; 1921 Chickering Baby Grand 100th Anniv Quarter Grand |
|
|
|
Brendan Mitchell
From:
Melbourne Australia
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 1:40 am
|
|
A competant welder should be able to repair that endplate so it is just about invisible .If you took just the endplate to the shop it should cost well under $100 .
Then again I know nothing of the ShoBud pot metal that gets mentioned , but if it is standard aluminiun should not be a problem . |
|
|
|
Jay Yuskaitis
From:
Massachusetts, USA
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 4:34 am S10
|
|
| That is a 6139. One sweetheart of a steel. A good candidate for a restoration. No extra holes in the undercarriage. Just a neglected Sho Bud. IMHO, worth about twice what you paid for it. How I love the early Sho Buds. Take care, Jay Y. |
|
|
|
Skip Edwards
From:
LA,CA
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 6:46 am
|
|
That one's as stock as the day it was built. Yes, it's a 6139, unofficially known as a Sgl 10 Professional, and it was made prior to the new undercarriage and Pro I designation.
I've got one I bought new in '72 (ser #2752). It's had an unrepaired crack in the endplate since '74, and it's never affected the tone nor the tuning.
Pre pot metal, btw.
Add 3 more KL's, and you'll be totally good to go for years & years. |
|
|
|
Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 11:57 am
|
|
Jamie, about the broken end plate.If you are ok with having a new one made, just contact James Morehead and he'll make you a new one - or one for each end.
To repair the old one, find a very competent TIG welder. He will "V" out the crack and fill it with weld. Then you'll have to grind and sand it down. With diligent sanding and buffing the weld will become invisible.
But- I have heard some scare stories about old Sho-Bud metal; that it can be pitted and ugly under the surface. These pits might show up. If just a few, of course your good welder will be able to fix those as well. Another thing to consider when welding aluminum. It will warp quite easily. Your welder will take this into consideration and maybe know tricks to avoid that.
Good luck in your restoration venture!!
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 12:49 pm
|
|
"Pitted and ugly?"
Say it ain't so! The old pedal rack from my '67 S-10;
Actually, those aren't pits, but meteorites! They broke the teeth right off my file! Ripped sandpaper to shreds! By the time your guitar was made, the aluminum castings were a bit better.
That's a beauty of a guitar. Me? I'd get new endplates from James. Pits did open up on these endplates when I sanded and polished them. But they don't look bad. Ya can hardly see them. But the ones from James would be perfect. Not cast, but machined.
 |
|
|
|
Jamie Stoner
From:
Bowling Green, Kentucky
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 1:05 pm
|
|
i have already sent james an email...thanks for the advice!
_________________
Michael Douchette's Franklin; Sho~Bud Fingertip D12; Sho Bud S10 6139 Serial #2911;1973 Fender Twin Reverb Silverface; Fender Cyber Twin; VZ Custom Telecaster; Epi Les Paul Custom Silverburst; Epi DOT; Copley Acoustic; Copley Acoustic Bass; Hammond E311 Organ; 1941 Chickering Baby Grand Piano, formerly owned by John Prine; 1921 Chickering Baby Grand 100th Anniv Quarter Grand |
|
|
|
Jamie Stoner
From:
Bowling Green, Kentucky
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 1:57 pm
|
|
john did you redo the wood on yours or is there a way to polish it without harming it? as long as mine isnt cracking i like the vintage look...with everything else polished of course!
_________________
Michael Douchette's Franklin; Sho~Bud Fingertip D12; Sho Bud S10 6139 Serial #2911;1973 Fender Twin Reverb Silverface; Fender Cyber Twin; VZ Custom Telecaster; Epi Les Paul Custom Silverburst; Epi DOT; Copley Acoustic; Copley Acoustic Bass; Hammond E311 Organ; 1941 Chickering Baby Grand Piano, formerly owned by John Prine; 1921 Chickering Baby Grand 100th Anniv Quarter Grand |
|
|
|
Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 2:11 pm
|
|
John, your guitar and end plates look absolutely stunning!
Jamie, good judgment call about contacting James. You won't regret it.
You questioned polishing. Is the wood in great condition? Or does it have its share of bar dings etc?
I have no idea how far you want to go with this but the best way to get a perfectly restored wood body would be to dismantle, sand down and lacquer it.
If you can live with a few dings here and there, keep as is. It looks great with the slightly yellowed finish.
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 2:24 pm
|
|
Jamie,
I did not refinish my guitar, except for one spot which was a ciggie burn through the finish, and into the wood. That repair was done by a good friend who is an abdu-lute artist with wood.
I used Meguiar's Professional Swirl Remover 2.0 followed by Nu Finish car polish, the stuff in the orange bottle. It seems to rejuvenate the finish nicely. Couple of coats. It will leave a white residue in cracks and joints. Remove this with a very soft toothbrush or with a soft shoe polish brush. Finish with Meguiar's Professional Showcar Glaze. Follow the directions, cuz it's kinda odd stuff. It doesn't dry! You wipe it on, and then buff it dry with a soft cotton cloth. Amazing stuff! Friends are always stunned by their guitars when I use the glaze.
Here's the repaired area on my guitar.
Before;
After, but before the polishing/rejuvenation process
Last edited by John Billings on 24 Aug 2010 5:56 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
|
|
Jamie Stoner
From:
Bowling Green, Kentucky
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 2:28 pm
|
|
wow that really turned out nice...i have used the nu finish on my pro II before...but never the other steps...i will definitely try the glaze...im hoping to have this by the end of this week beginning of next at the latest so I can see what it really needs...you can never truly tell by pics...i do want to add 3 more knees though right away...and after seeing yours i want a white fret board...and gold tuners...i think that will be a nice contrast
_________________
Michael Douchette's Franklin; Sho~Bud Fingertip D12; Sho Bud S10 6139 Serial #2911;1973 Fender Twin Reverb Silverface; Fender Cyber Twin; VZ Custom Telecaster; Epi Les Paul Custom Silverburst; Epi DOT; Copley Acoustic; Copley Acoustic Bass; Hammond E311 Organ; 1941 Chickering Baby Grand Piano, formerly owned by John Prine; 1921 Chickering Baby Grand 100th Anniv Quarter Grand |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 2:47 pm
|
|
Jamie,
Definitely use the swirl remover! That's the most important step. It cleans the finish surface. Gets rid of cloudiness without damaging the patina.
If your aluminum parts, aside from the damaged endplate, are in good shape and just oxidized, I highly recommend these products. Guys like Flitz and stuff, but I'm not willing to waste my time and elbow grease, when these easy to use products achieve the same results. However, if there are shallow scratches, Flitz and similar products are the way to go. I had to sand out scratches on this guitar's endplates and replaced pedal rack. I sanded them out up to 1,600 wet paper, and took them to a polishing/plating company. I got a good deal there. Less than $50, cuz it only took him about 15 minutes, and he's a fair guy. He also told me that I didn't need to go that crazy with the sanding. They use a big wheel and a lot of pressure.
 |
|
|
|
James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 4:22 pm
|
|
As a couple of the fellas mentioned, see if you can get it tig welded. That's the cheapest solution, as well as staying original. If you want, send it down to me and I'll get it for ya. OR I can make a set of plates for you. CNC work is not cheap, and sticker shock might put you down to your knees. Ah-ha!! But they will be fitted perfect to your wood cabinet. Trouble is, the new CNC'ed plates will look so purdy, your keyhead and changer housing will stick out, then. Try to work that original plate if you can. make sure you go to a shop that has the ability to do it right the first time.
By The way, those 6139's are a real sleeper--the best kept tone secret in the world of steel guitar. Congrats on stepping into the "tone zone"!
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 23 Aug 2010 5:09 pm
|
|
| Yeah James! |
|
|
|
Dave Pearlman
From:
California, USA
|
Posted 1 Sep 2010 5:36 pm
|
|
I agree to let James have a look at it. He does wonders with those guitars. I finally found a great 6139 (after not having one for many years)and James helped me with parts and advice...I couldn't be happier with the guitar!! Tone for days and it stays in tune...
_________________
Dave Pearlman
www.pearlmanmicrophones.com
Sho-Bud Pro 1 (4&4)
ETS S-10 4 floor 5 knee
(3, yes really) Fender Twin Reverbs
Fender Deluxe Reverb
Peavey Nashville 112
Fishman Loudbox 100 (awesome steel amp for small gigs) |
|
|
|
Jamie Stoner
From:
Bowling Green, Kentucky
|
Posted 4 Sep 2010 5:54 am
|
|
this guitar is being delivered today..the bad part is im still in the hospital and cant even enjoy it!!!!UGGGGGGGGHHHHHH
_________________
Michael Douchette's Franklin; Sho~Bud Fingertip D12; Sho Bud S10 6139 Serial #2911;1973 Fender Twin Reverb Silverface; Fender Cyber Twin; VZ Custom Telecaster; Epi Les Paul Custom Silverburst; Epi DOT; Copley Acoustic; Copley Acoustic Bass; Hammond E311 Organ; 1941 Chickering Baby Grand Piano, formerly owned by John Prine; 1921 Chickering Baby Grand 100th Anniv Quarter Grand |
|
|
|
James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
|
Posted 2 Oct 2010 7:48 pm
|
|
| Ben Elder wrote: |
(Sho-Bud experts, confirm or shoot this down...)
Technically, I think it's the same hardware as a "The Professional" D-10 although they seem not to have put the decal on 6139s (or maybe S-10s of the period.)
Ricky Davis, James Morehead and others can nail this down more precisely. |
Hey Ben, I just noticed your post here. You are right, these guitars were ALSO called singleneck Professionals. VERY cool shobuds. AND very often overlooked and taken for just some "cheapy".
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
|
|
|
