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Post new topic GFI Rodding Chart
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Author Topic:  GFI Rodding Chart
Jerry Roller


From:
Van Buren, Arkansas USA
Post  Posted 6 Aug 2010 9:23 pm    
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I need to re-rod a GFI D10. Can someone give me rodding info that GFI uses on both necks?
Jerry
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Richard Damron


From:
Gallatin, Tennessee, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 7 Aug 2010 6:05 am    
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Jerry -

This might be what you need.

http://www.gfimusicalproducts.com/Tables/Copedant%20Tables.htm

Print it out and have fun.

Richard
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Dan Beller-McKenna


From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
Post  Posted 7 Aug 2010 7:06 am    
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I suspect this is more of what Jerry has in mind.

I wonder if it might be time to began amassing a rodding chart database. Although different copedants will necessitate slight differences from one guitar to another, having rodding charts to refer to would be a good first step for re-rodding or adding a change on a guitar.

Dan
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Bobby Bowman

 

From:
Cypress, Texas, USA, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 7 Aug 2010 7:32 am     rodding
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Jerry,
I use a system simular to this:
I use a number/letter system based on "from the cross shaft" on the bell crankss and from the axle on the changer,,,ie,,,,however many holes, slots or other styles of connecting to the bell crank would be 1, closest to the cross shaft on out to the end of the crank, which on a GFI is either 5 or 6 options. Then on the changer I use letters from the axle down,,,ie,,,A to however many holes available in the changer. I think a GFI has a triple raise and double lower, so that would be A, B and C for the raise options and D and E for the lower options. On a triple lower you would have an "F" option also.
So, if I'm in the 3'rd hole/slot on the bell crank and the 3'rd hole in the changer I would designate that as "3/C" and so on.
I have rodded several GFI's, but failed to keep a rod chart.
To get real specific for any guitar or set up might be a little misleading simply because of the slight differences in string brands, gauges, type of materials used in manufactoring and so on. Not to mention different scale lengths and another hand full of possible variences,,,haha.
Now this is just a guess on my part, but it may get you started and "in the ball park":
for the A pedal, strings 5 and 10, I'd go with 2/C. For the B pedal I'd try 3/C for the third string and 1/C for the six'th string if it's a plain string. If it's a wound string, maybe 3/C for it.
I like to give the A and B pedals, and the E to Eb knee lever the best options first and then use the best options left to chose from to attain a more "balanced feel" for the rest of the changes.
Over the years I've kept rod charts for all my customers, but because of the damage from the last storm a couple of years ago, I lost all of them and my old memory is just not very good anymore.
Call me if you need to and I'll try to help in any way that I can.
BB
281-856-9453
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If you play 'em, play 'em good!
If you build 'em, build 'em good!
http://www.bobbybowman.com
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Richard Damron


From:
Gallatin, Tennessee, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 7 Aug 2010 7:56 am    
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Dan -

You are oh, so, right. The two, in conjunction, should serve Jerry well.

Respectfully,

Richard
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John Poston

 

From:
Albuquerque, NM, USA
Post  Posted 12 Aug 2010 8:36 am    
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I had one but have no idea where it could be anymore.

Just give GFI a call and they will put one in the mail for you, at least I believe that's how I got my copy.
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