Marlen Setup Problem

Wayne Hartman · From: Ohio, USA

Hi,

A newbie to this site here. I've read many posts from this site but never joined until now. Glad I did.

This past Thurs. I purchased a used Marlen Double Neck... and the previous owner got it totally out of adjustment. I worked on it all weekend and got the C6th Neck working perfectly. But on the E9th neck, I got the first two pedals and the LKR, RKL and RKR working properly but when I tried to get the "C" pedal raise E to F#, it stays at F and won't go back to E. If I go back and set the tuning for A & B, the "C" pedal won't go up to F#. Also, the LKL which is set to lower the E's to Eb, don't do a thing.

What am I doing wrong??? Any suggestions?

By the way, this is a really good sounding instrument....

As a Sho-Bud and Sierra owner, this changer type is a bit foreign to me but I thought I understood the basics.

Can you help? Thanks,

Wayne

Wayne Hartman · From: Ohio, USA

In reference to the above post....

I have the "C" pedal working correctly now....but no matter what I do the LKL which is set currently to lower the E's to Eb's does absolutely nothing. Ugh.... what am I doing wrong????

Chris Lucker · From: Los Angeles, California USA

Wayne

Your problem can be answered with a search of the Forum archives, which you should become familiar with so here is your chance.

Click on "Search" up on this page at top right.

A new page will come up, look at the left margin and you will see a blue colored "here" that will allow you to search the old Forum. Click the "here"

New page will come up. Under search words, type "Marlen Problem"

Choose "Topic Only" to target your search

Type "Ricky Davis" as the "User Name".

Click Pedal Steel as the "Search Forum"

Read what comes up.

Also you may search Marlen Tuning, or Marlen Setup. Lots to read.

Welcome to the Forum. There is a lot that happened here before you arrived that you will enjoy being able to access.
_________________
Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars.

Wayne Hartman · From: Ohio, USA

Thanks Chris....I found it and will give it a try.

I appreciate the response. Wayne
_________________
Sierra S-12
Sho-Bud Pro
Mellobar
1956 Gibson Lap
Twin (Altec 417)

Ben Godard · From: Jamesville NC

If your marlen is one of the earlier models then Its has pull release changer.(Not to be confused by the push pull) Very dificult to tune. I hated mine with a passion and I would not have one ever again.

If its an all pull, it should be similar to most any all-pull psg.

Mr Stadler made thes in Reidsville NC if you don't already know the history. In my opinion, he made the most beutuful lacquer finishes of ANY guitar ever but underneath the carriage was a little crude until he went to the all pull changer.

I don't know him personally but I hear Ricky Davis here on the forum is one of the few gurus of Marlen pull release mechanics.

Clyde Mattocks · From: Kinston, North Carolina, USA

Lots of variables, depending on if is later all pull, early pull/release, or a transition model that was essentially a pull/release, but had hex tuners like an all pull. The E to F# raise and the lower on the same string requires a lot of travel which can't be compromised by a too close adjustment on
pulls that are linked to that one. First, make sure you are using a .014 (or no larger than .015) for the fourth (E) string. Then back off everything and first make sure you have enough travel to make the F#
down to Eb range. Get this string tuned and adjusted FIRST. Then, adjust the 5th (B to C#). I don't want to make this more complicated than it has to be, but if the guitar uses a single rod for the B to C# change on the C pedal AND the A pedal, there is another trouble spot. If this is the case, don't overlook that the pull on the 10th string could be limiting your travel on the fifth, which in turn doesn't allow you your whole range of travel on the
fourth.

I could spot your problem in a short time, I just can't explain it briefly.
_________________
LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Fender Twin Tone Master, Session 400, Harlow Dobro, R.Q.Jones Dobro

Clyde Mattocks · From: Kinston, North Carolina, USA

And I failed to mention, a loose bellcrank on the cross shaft would throw everything haywire.
_________________
LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Fender Twin Tone Master, Session 400, Harlow Dobro, R.Q.Jones Dobro

Bill Moran · From: Virginia, USA

Email Mike Calaway -, mikec30@comcast.net.
Mike , more than likely, built the guitar. Great guy and will help with your problem's.
_________________
Bill

Bo Legg · Posted 28 Jun 2010 7:01 pm

Wayne (I'm assuming a basic pull and release type here) adjust the knee that lowers the E's to Eb and then adjust the C pedal while keeping that knee lever engaged. You may have to back off on all the C pedal adjustments and pedal travel stops before you start. You will have to redo the tuning adjustment on the 5th string also after you get all this done. This works for me. There may be a better way.

Paul Redmond · From: Illinois, USA

On a pull/release system, a lower won't go down if a raise is in the way. There must be additional slack in the rod for the 4th string to allow the E to lower to D#.
I just finished working on a Marlen p/r S-10 for David Yustin. What an amazing sounding guitar!!!
Clyde - The above guitar had those DuBro collars on the rods. I removed them all and threaded the pullrods to #5-40. It made it much easier to balance the pulls and fine-tune them.
PRR

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