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Topic: Sierra D10 - C pedal won't tune, others have too much travel |
W. Van Horn
From:
Houston, texas
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Posted 31 May 2010 2:39 pm |
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Hi yall,
Tried to do a search on these subjects and couldn't find anything. I just got a Sierra D10, I believe it's from the 70s, the model with attached legs that fold up. The previous owner hadn't played it in about 10 years so it needs some adjustment, and that's where I'm at a loss.
On the E9 neck, the C pedal won't raise all the way to F#. I've adjusted its travel(using the oblong plastic piece that the bellcrank makes contact with) to the point where the pedal actually hits the floor, and still when I get close to F# at the changer end it starts tuning the open string. Can anyone guide me in a direction to remedy this?
As well, on the C6 neck most of the pedals will travel a fair distance before engaging the changer. How can I set them to start engaging the changer immediately once moved? I'm sure this is basic PSG mechanics, but I'm still new to the instrument. Any help would be much appreciated. |
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Bill Dobkins
From:
Rolla Missouri, USA
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Posted 31 May 2010 4:02 pm
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Will,this is one of the longer pulls on a steel.
I don't know much about the Serria steel. What hole is the pull rod on the bell crank in. Remember! the farther away from the cross shaft the shorter the travel, and shorter the pull
but the harder the pull.
On the C pedal it shouldn't be a problem.
Try it, as well as trying the closes hole to the shaft on the changer. You may have to play with it a little to get the right feel.
bd
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W. Van Horn
From:
Houston, texas
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Posted 31 May 2010 9:14 pm
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Bill,
Are you saying that the placement of the pull rod will remove the excess travel? My problem is there is significant travel before the finger is activated. Or are you saying that the placement of the rod may have something to do with my tuning issue? I'm open to all suggestions, thank you for the reply! |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 1 Jun 2010 12:36 am
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Will, I used to work at Sierra.
After you make sure nothing is hanging up or impeding any of the rods or bell cranks (e.g. rods binding, string ball-end etc):
[1] loosen all the raises and lowers on the 4th string so there's about an 1/8 inch slack on all the changes then tune the open E note by tuner to straight up. Don't worry about tempering or fine tuning at this point.
[2] tighten up the E-->F# pull rod w/ your tuning wrench (nut driver) until there is about 1/16 inch of free play between the threaded barrel and the bell crank.
[3] Slightly loosen the 3rd pedal stop (white plastic eccentric cam)
[4] By hand, push the C pedal and watch the tuner. If you can't hit F# at the end of the throw, rotate the cam slightly to allow more throw before the stop engages. (What you want to do is move the fat side of the cam away from the stop) Once you establish the pedal throw there should still be a 1/16" free play. That is OK. You need a touch of slack in the system. Now tighten the cam securing screw (hex cap screw) with the Allen wrench.
[5]Recheck your open E and Pedal 3 F# notes...then tune your E-->Fs and E-->Ebs, followed by your 8th string open note & changes.
[6] Temper or tune to the beats you prefer. You should have only a little slack and the changes should all reach pitch for all notes.
[7] repeat for all pedals. Establish the pedal throw by the longest change and then re-tune all the other changes to begin and end at the same time using leverage positions at the bell crank (stiffer = farther from cross-shaft axle) or changer finger (easier = farther away from changer axle).
CAVEAT: Do not attempt to completely remove all slack. This usually leads to later tuning problems. |
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Bob Bowden
From:
Vancouver, BC, Canada * R.I.P.
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Posted 1 Jun 2010 7:56 am
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Here are the settings for my 91 Crown with the guitar in normal playing position:
Pullrod is attached to the bellcrank in the third hole down and top hole on the changer end.
Pedal rod is attached to pedal in the middle hole.
Pedal travel is about .9 inches(22 mm).
Sierra has an online manual at http://www.sierrasteels.com/new/sierramanual.pdf with a rodding chart on page 15.
Hope that helps a bit. |
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Brett Lanier
From:
Madison, TN
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Posted 1 Jun 2010 8:20 am
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Is the 4 string return spring pulling off (stretching) when you press the C pedal? It should be just tight enough so that it doesn't.
It's possible that the previous owner didn't use the C pedal, and decided to loosen the spring to prevent the 4 string from coming back sharp with the E lever. |
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