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Post new topic First Pedal Steel...Cleaned & Painted....(PICS ADDED)
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Author Topic:  First Pedal Steel...Cleaned & Painted....(PICS ADDED)
Ross James


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 10:41 am    
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howdy,

i just joined the forum because i'm thinking about buying a 10 string rus-ler with 3 pedals and one knee lever. i've been playing guitar for about 12 years, and have been looking at playing steel for a while now. i got a lap steel just to get my feet wet and see if i liked it... now i'm looking at this rus-ler. my main question is if it's worth the $450 the guy is asking for it. also, if anybody has any info on these guitars or general beginner tips, they would be much appreciated.

thanks,
RJ


Last edited by Ross James on 10 Apr 2010 2:08 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Chris Dorch


From:
Wisconsin, USA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 10:49 am    
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If it were me, I would get a modern steel. A good beginner or even intermediate steel has 3 pedals 4 knees. 3X1 is not good enough in my book. FYI, I am still playing a 3X1 currently. Many newbies become frustrated with steels because they start off with the wrong product. Those who start off with the right product get frustrated because it's not as easy as their other instrument.

FWIW, you can get a Carter Starter for a couple hundred bucks more, and be better off. Couple hundred more over the Carter you can get a good intermediate steel. (800 and up)...

YMMV
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Ross James


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 10:52 am    
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thanks for the info Chris. i'll keep that in mind...
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Roger Crawford


From:
Griffin, GA USA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 10:54 am    
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Ross, depending on the condition of the guitar, it's probably worth $450.00. Just having one knee lever may prove to be a problem. Lowering your E's would be the most beneficial move for that knee, but you could outgrow that set-up pretty quick. Check to see if someone in your area would be able to add some additional knee levers. If not, you might be better served buying a guitar that has the "industry standard" four knees.
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Ross James


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 11:18 am    
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thanks roger. as far as adding additional knee levers, do you know where those parts could be purchased?

-RJ


Last edited by Ross James on 29 Mar 2010 1:44 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Roger Crawford


From:
Griffin, GA USA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 12:01 pm    
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Rus-Ler went out of business several years ago, so matching parts are probably not available. Most shops can add knees with generic parts. Check with Jim Palenscar down in Ocenside.
http://www.steelguitars.me/
He may even have something in stock that would be better for you.
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Andy Sandoval


From:
Bakersfield, California, USA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 12:06 pm    
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Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't be happy unless the guitar had at least two knee levers. There's a lot of music that can be played with just the two knee levers and the majority of tab for E9 requires at the very least the two knee levers that raise and lower the 4 and 8 strings.
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Ross James


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 1:44 pm    
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thanks a lot for the info... if i can get the Rus-ler for a deal, i may still go for it and look into adding a couple of knee levers.

-RJ
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John De Maille


From:
On a Mountain in Upstate Halcottsville, N.Y.
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 2:10 pm    
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Ross,
Chuck Back, who, owns and makes the "Desert Rose" steel guitars, will probably have what you're looking for. He had acquired most, if not all, the remaining parts for the Rus-Ler steels.
Look into the links section, under manufacturers. The Desert Rose Steel Guitar access numbers should be there. If you should buy that RusLer, Chuck can help you out.
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Ross James


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 2:16 pm    
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awesome! thanks for the tip John.
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Wayne D. Clark

 

From:
Montello Wisconsin, USA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 4:48 pm    
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Ross, What Jonh Said. I got my D/R from Chuck Back, it was a traid back for a new insterment. By the time Chuck got it to me He had completly checked it out and added a 5th lever for me. Chuck Makes a Great insterment and he may have something in his shop that later on he upgrade for you. If you can go 3/4. Ross here is Chuck Back's email.well it was when I purchased my D/R from him. Backcnb@aol.com. I just found his address " Chuck Back, 2010 Darren Drive Kingman. Az 86401 #520-548-4654. Good Luck

Wayne D. Clark
Desert Rose S10 3/5
usnyn2nd@verizon.net
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Wayne D. Clark

 

From:
Montello Wisconsin, USA
Post  Posted 29 Mar 2010 4:54 pm    
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Ross, Here is another contact you could try. Carr's Steel Guitar Shop, 12 Rastus Riels Road Seminary, MS 39479. Bill Sold a MSA D10 for me a couple of years ago. Anothere Greate person to deal with. Here is a phone number, Still might work. 601-752-2037.

Wayne D. Clark
Desert Rose S10 3/5
usnyn2nd@verizon.net
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Ross James


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 30 Mar 2010 1:49 pm    
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thanks for the tips Wayne!

went to take a look at it today, and aside from some cosmetic issues and no fretboard, the guitar was in pretty good shape. i was able to get the guitar for way less than he was asking, and am looking forward to getting started!

-RJ
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Danny Hall


From:
Nevada, USA
Post  Posted 30 Mar 2010 2:40 pm    
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If you can measure the PRECISE scale length somebody ought to be able to make or provide a suitable board for it.
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Jonathan Mitguard


From:
San Rafael, California, USA
Post  Posted 31 Mar 2010 4:00 pm    
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I had a Rus-ler once and it was the most beautiful guitar I've owned. I believe the maker split off from ZB and the guitars shared some similarities. So if you can get it cheap enough to still afford the fret board and three more Knee levers in your price range, go for it. This assuming the existing machine is in good working order. Just noticed you are in Northern California so you need to talk to Tom Bradshaw he can set you up probably.
http://www.songwriter.com/bradshaw/
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Ray Minich

 

From:
Bradford, Pa. Frozen Tundra
Post  Posted 1 Apr 2010 5:51 am    
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You oughta be within driving distance from Jim Palenscar's shop. I'd check out his inventory too before committing.
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Stephen Silver


From:
Asheville, NC
Post  Posted 1 Apr 2010 6:04 am    
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The Rustler he purchased is a student model, not one of the nice old (and very very heavy) wood guitars they made. I saw the guitar as it was advertised here locally in the bay area.

SS
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Ross James


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 1 Apr 2010 7:33 am    
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here are some pics of the guitar. i've got a makeshift posterboard fretboard that doesn't work half bad... i'm going to clean it up real good this weekend, and probably paint it as well. thanks again to chris ivey for getting me going and showing me what's what. she may not be pretty, but she sounds great and is built like a tank...






NASTY!















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Jonathan Mitguard


From:
San Rafael, California, USA
Post  Posted 1 Apr 2010 8:37 am    
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Stephen Silver wrote:
The Rustler he purchased is a student model, not one of the nice old (and very very heavy) wood guitars they made. I saw the guitar as it was advertised here locally in the bay area.

SS

Yeah that isn't quite as easy on the eyes as mine was. They did have a nice sense of line though and the pedal details are totally cool. It looks like there is a cross rod already for a second Knee lever. Heavy? my rus-ler was only 88lb in the case. Oh Well
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 1 Apr 2010 9:07 am    
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this thing is way cooler than i thought it was going to be. really solid, all-pull, capable of add ons...and ross is smart. he got it for next to nothing and has already learned some major basic moves ...all in one day!

oh yeah...it sounds fantastic even just plugged straight into my little bandit...and that's with rusty strings!

ross could use a decent volume pedal if anyone out there has one real cheap...like a goodrich 120 with a crappy pot that you all complain about. i'll make it work.
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Stu Schulman


From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
Post  Posted 1 Apr 2010 9:22 am    
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It's got those ZB-Rus-Ler bridge saddles and I think a lot of the sound comes from there,Chuck Back still has those pedals in stock.All this guitar needs besides a fretboard is some TLC,I bet it's got great tone. Winking
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Steeltronics Z-pickup,Desert Rose S-10 4+5,Desert Rose Keyless S-10 3+5... Mullen G2 S-10 3+5,Telonics 206 pickups,Telonics volume pedal.,Blanton SD -10,Emmons GS_10...Zirctone bar,Bill Groner Bar...any amp that isn't broken.Steel Seat.Com seats...Licking paint chips off of Chinese Toys since 1952.
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 1 Apr 2010 2:02 pm    
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it does, stu. do you know anything more about that bridge/changer? i know the top of the changer obviously looks the same as the student zb for sale (the rus-ler keyhead is a neater design). the individual saddles come off (we noticed since the 3rd string was missing...taking tension off that bridge roller) and seem to be well made and heavy duty.
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Stu Schulman


From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
Post  Posted 1 Apr 2010 4:37 pm    
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Chris,Chuck Back has all of those parts,I owned the very first Desert Rose made and it had those bridge pieces and probably the same changer parts?I'm also quite sure that the Desert Rose fingerboard fits right in.Give him a call.
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Steeltronics Z-pickup,Desert Rose S-10 4+5,Desert Rose Keyless S-10 3+5... Mullen G2 S-10 3+5,Telonics 206 pickups,Telonics volume pedal.,Blanton SD -10,Emmons GS_10...Zirctone bar,Bill Groner Bar...any amp that isn't broken.Steel Seat.Com seats...Licking paint chips off of Chinese Toys since 1952.
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Colm Chomicky


From:
Kansas, (Prairie Village)
Post  Posted 4 Apr 2010 9:54 am    
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Pretty cool. But I might be seeing things - is that a brown rusler spider hiding up there? Smile

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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 4 Apr 2010 10:08 am    
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yes...he was very reclusive!
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