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Topic: C9 ten string universal |
Mark Butcher
From: Scotland
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Posted 19 Mar 2010 3:39 am
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I have changed the copedent on my E9 Shobud so I have G#-B-E at 10-9-8. I have only just realised that I now have the top ten string tuning of a universal.
It would suit me to drop the tuning to C9 to get a lower range. I seldom use the C pedal and wonder if I could put some thing more useful on that change. Maybe add pulls to the knee lever that raises the F# to G.
Have any of you explored this territory? |
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Ken Metcalf
From: San Antonio Texas USA
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Posted 19 Mar 2010 4:01 am
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When Es are lowered, then the Universal tuning is B6th.
So you would have raise it to a C6th.
Then you would have F9th universal tuning.
I would think it should be low enough as is.
Good Luck and have fun! _________________ MSA 12 String E9th/B6th Universal.
Little Walter PF-89.
Bunch of stomp boxes |
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Rick Abbott
From: Indiana, USA
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Posted 19 Mar 2010 4:18 am
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I have my tuning set up, Low to high, G# B E F# G# B E G# D# F#. I raise the Es to F, and lower to Eb. Like Ken said, it's B6 with the E lower. So, on my E lower I also lower my D# to a C#. I have the A B C pedals and 2 other pedals, which are the equivalent of pedals 5 and 6 of a standard C6/B6 setup. It works very well. My D10 has 5 pedals and 2 KL on the E9/B6 neck and non-pedal G6 on the back neck EGBDEGBDEG low to high.
You could add the "6" pedal which would give you the I to IV change in B6? Add a pedal or two and get more true Uni stuff. I play lots of different stuff with this tuning, I DO miss the next lower E of a 12string Uni. _________________ RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Sehy #112
1975 Peavey Pacer |
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Mark Butcher
From: Scotland
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Posted 19 Mar 2010 5:08 am
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Rick you have the same tuning as me. The idea of dropping the whole tuning was get the mid range changes lower, beef up the string gauges and fatten up the sound.
The D# to C# is a good idea. I'll have to see if I can add a couple of pedals to my 6139. Your conversion of a D10 with the non pedal back neck sound great too. I don't have any space for another steel unfortunately or even for a D10 for that matter.
Mark |
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Rick Abbott
From: Indiana, USA
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Posted 19 Mar 2010 5:59 am
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The B6 is lower, but without the E below the G# and The B, which is generally the 12th string on a Uni, you lose the really effective low end of the B6. You might tinker with some sort of D9/A6 universal...? What changer is on the guitar? Single raise/lower, Double raise/single lower? Yes you can add pedals, there are many parts available. _________________ RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Sehy #112
1975 Peavey Pacer |
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Mark Butcher
From: Scotland
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Posted 19 Mar 2010 8:30 am
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The idea of the C9 is to get C9/G6 and drop the whole tuning two tones. The bottom G# would become E. Maybe a bit too radical. |
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Rick Abbott
From: Indiana, USA
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Posted 19 Mar 2010 8:57 am
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Mark, my eyes played a trick on me! Until you posted C9/G6 I was seeing C6, every single time! WOW
There is a pedal steel string gauge chart on Bobby Lee Quasars page...use the links up-top to find it.
I'll look for it and post it, it'll help you get the right strings...I'd try it...looks interesting, if the low strings arent too huge! _________________ RICK ABBOTT
Sho~Bud D-10 Professional #7962
Remington T-8, Sehy #112
1975 Peavey Pacer |
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Rick Abbott
From: Indiana, USA
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Rick Abbott
From: Indiana, USA
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Mark Butcher
From: Scotland
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Posted 19 Mar 2010 10:03 am
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That's a useful chart! I haven't seen that before. I know the roller nut on my Shobud balks at anything bigger than a .48 so I would have to sort that out.
Messing with tuning and string gauges doesn't always react how you expect it to. I built a huge baritone archtop acoustic with a 29 inch scale but it was happier tuned to D while I have a 00 acoustic which copes with a C open tuning just fine.
Maybe I'll just try a pedal that takes my low G# to E. I have retired to a tiny cottage and don't have a workshop any more! |
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