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Topic: sho bud pro 2 / need advice on refinishing body |
Jack Goodson
From:
new brockton,alabama (deceased)
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Posted 4 Dec 2009 11:00 am |
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i just bought a pro 2 that needs an endplate (changer end) the guy that i bought it from (welded the rear leg in the socket)also need new legs. anyone that might know where i could get an endplate new or used that could be polished out.serial number is ...12588.any help will really be appreciated .... photos below...thanks jack i need advice on refinishing the body, it has pearl inlay on the front and on the wood necks. i need to know if i can sand it down to the bare wood without damaging the inlay?...need help...thanks jack
Last edited by Jack Goodson on 9 Dec 2009 7:01 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Bobby Burns
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2009 11:21 am
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| Could you not just cut the stub off of that endplate, and drill and tap it ? |
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Jack Goodson
From:
new brockton,alabama (deceased)
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Posted 4 Dec 2009 11:27 am pro 2
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bobby: i thought about doing that, but it has a hole that i don't think could be repaired. i am going to take a photo of it so you can see it....thanks jack
Last edited by Jack Goodson on 4 Dec 2009 11:37 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Bobby Burns
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2009 11:34 am
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| Jack, a man who's good with a TIG welder, is worth his weight in gold. I've had some pretty bad looking stuff fixed, completely invisible. The hard part is finding a guy with the skill, who's willing to take it in. Send me a picture of the damage. If you don't have someone to do it, I'll see if my buddy is interested. |
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Jack Goodson
From:
new brockton,alabama (deceased)
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Posted 4 Dec 2009 11:45 am photo of damage
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| bobby: not a good photo, but you can see the hole. it looks like it is all the way thru the endplate...i am sending you a pm....thanks jack |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2009 12:37 pm
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| I second the TIG suggestion. At least try it first. We had a seriously gouged neck blank where I work. Had a welder fill it in, I filed it, sanded it and buffed it. Completely invisible. Very nice guitar BTW! |
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Jack Goodson
From:
new brockton,alabama (deceased)
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Posted 4 Dec 2009 12:45 pm pro 2
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| john: thanks for the info,i really would like to get it fixed if possible, because it has the original serial number. bobby is checking to see if someone he knows will be willing to take on the job. ....thanks jack |
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Brendan Mitchell
From:
Melbourne Australia
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Posted 4 Dec 2009 10:13 pm
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| I vote for the welded repair as well . A good welder could work wonders with that . |
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Jack Goodson
From:
new brockton,alabama (deceased)
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Posted 9 Dec 2009 6:12 pm hearts and inlay
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| the hearts are inlayed into the wood also.....thanks jack |
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Bobby Burns
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 9 Dec 2009 7:08 pm
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Jack. It's a shame to see such a nice guitar in such bad shape. I'm glad you're fixin' her up.
What do you want the re-fin to look like? Are you planing to change the color? You can should be able to carefully sand it a little, without hurting the inlay. When you re-stain it, you should mask of the body and seal just the inlay with shellac. Then use a water-based stain, and it won't stain the purfling that is on either side of the pearl strips. The stain won't stick to the pearl anyway. That will be the trickiest part, getting the line clean between the purfling and the stained wood. It's not rocket science, you just have to take your time and be careful. This guitar looks like it will be plenty worth the effort. |
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Jack Goodson
From:
new brockton,alabama (deceased)
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Posted 9 Dec 2009 8:40 pm refinish
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| bobby: i don't know what color yet, but something maybe in a transparent red. the finish that is on the guitar now is actually a real dark green,and is not as bad as the photos look. a lot of glare on some photos makes it appear that way. just figured since you are going to make the endplates look great that i might as well go ahead and do it right. this is one of the best playing shobuds that i have ever played, it came from the factory with 9/pedals and 6/knees....thanks for the info....jack |
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 12 Dec 2009 7:14 pm
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I have always preferred automotive-type lacquer over the so-called furniture or nitro-cellulose lacquers. The automotive stuff is far more durable, doesn't cause color bleed, and it isn't vulnerable to water-spotting. You can wet-sand it with 1000 grit Wet-or-Dry paper, then buff it like the fender of a car!!! Being careful , of course, not to get it hot in the process. Chips are easily repaired. The stuff must be sprayed...never brushed. It's not cheap!!! I bought a quart of clear R-M (Rinshed-Mason) two years ago and it cost me 49 bucks plus tax. It can be waxed with any good automotive car wax...paste or liquid. Minor scratches can be smoothed out with automotive rubbing compound or plain old toothpaste and water on a rag.
PRR |
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