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Topic: Setting up a new steel |
Rick Hanzlik
From:
Utah, USA
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Posted 24 Nov 2009 7:22 am |
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OK, so now I have the new stweel in hand and I've finally decided on how I'm going to tune it. but now I realize that the bridge is one of the adjustable kind similiar to the one shown below:
Is there some instructions or advice available from one of you fine members that can help me get this set up?
Regards
Rick |
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Don McGregor
From:
Memphis, Tennessee
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Posted 24 Nov 2009 8:10 am
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1.
I'm sure there are nuances I have yet to discover about adjustable bridges for steels, but as far as I know, they aren't necessary.
Most lap and console steels have a simple straight blade or rod for a bridge, needing no adjustment for intonation. However, you might be able to move all of the saddles forward or back to make your octave fret at the exact center between bridge and nut. Steel playing is largely by ear, but visual markers are really important as well, and it can throw you off if the fret makers appear to be a little forward or back from where the in tune notes sound.
I'd just line the saddles up perpendicular to the strings, and see how that works.
2.
Though this is even more important at the nut end, you want the strings level, so the bar will touch all the strings at once when it is laid down on them. If one is lower than the others, you will hear some rattle and sitar-like sounds coming from it.
Anyone else know different? |
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Posted 24 Nov 2009 8:24 am
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Don covered a lot of good ground, I'd just add that you will first need to set the saddles to the instruments scale length. Measure from the face of the nut to the center line of the 12th fret, multiply by 2 and you have the scale length.
_________________
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Ron Whitfield
From:
Kaaawa, Hawaii, USA
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Posted 24 Nov 2009 9:20 am
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With most steel players, tone is probably paramount, and a solid nut and bridge with strings thru the body are one of the age old standards that has proven it's worth, but nothing is written in stone. These adjustable bridges will cut out copious amounts of tone, but can still sound OK. In your day's/months/years to come you will suss out what you favor.
Have fun! |
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Rick Hanzlik
From:
Utah, USA
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Posted 24 Nov 2009 3:59 pm
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| Tom Pettingill wrote: |
| Don covered a lot of good ground, I'd just add that you will first need to set the saddles to the instruments scale length. Measure from the face of the nut to the center line of the 12th fret, multiply by 2 and you have the scale length. |
I guess I understated the calculation but then what doe I do with it. I have seen other guitars with these type of bridge and string holders and they have the holders staggered not all in line. |
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Rich Hlaves
From:
Wildomar, California, USA
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Posted 24 Nov 2009 4:34 pm
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Rick,
They should be adjusted "all in a line" to the scale length. All at the same height too. You can check your harmonics at the 12th fret against a bared note at the 12th fret with a tuner. I set up my stringmasters this way. You only need to do one string. Everthing else will go at the same length on a steel. I use the highest string for this purpose.
Best,
Rich |
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Steinar Gregertsen
From:
Arendal, Norway, R.I.P.
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Posted 24 Nov 2009 7:39 pm
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| Rick Hanzlik wrote: |
| I have seen other guitars with these type of bridge and string holders and they have the holders staggered not all in line. |
A regular guitar will need to have the saddles individually compensated for proper intonation, no need to worry about that on a steel since you don't press the strings down against a fretboard/frets.
As said above,- check the intonation on one string and adjust the others similar to that.
_________________
"Play to express, not to impress"
Website - YouTube |
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Rick Hanzlik
From:
Utah, USA
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Posted 25 Nov 2009 9:46 am setting up a new steel
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| Thanks all. I think I understand now. |
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