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Topic: Multi-bender thread. Problems and solutions. |
James Mayer
From:
back in Portland Oregon, USA (via Arkansas and London, UK)
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Posted 14 Nov 2011 2:15 pm |
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I'd like to know how some of you who use the Duesenburg Multibender correct some of it's design flaws.
Problem: String breakage. The wrap of the string cuts into the string itself because the bender place pressure on the exact sport where the string wrap ends.
My solution: Loop-end string for the B-C# raise. I put the loop over the return thumb screw so end of the wrap is moved away from the pressure point. It works well. Anybody find strings with short wraps out there?
Problem: G#-A frequently returns sharp when released.
Solution: I put one of the springs that was intended for lowers under the bender. Now, it's takes a lot more pressure to use the lever, but it always returns to where it should. |
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Posted 14 Nov 2011 9:26 pm
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I've only setup a couple so far and have 2 more on the bench, but this is what I've figured out so far.
For the string breakage issue I've had good luck with recent Ernie Balls in that the wrap is just a little shorter than it used to be so that the stress point is moved back off the pivot point.
Also, for a string that would ride on the wrap, I found that an old ball end threaded onto the string would set the wrap end back far enough to keep it off the axle.
I've not had any issues with strings returning to pitch yet. Are you getting any binding anywhere .. a roller perhaps? Short of that, maybe the extra tension of a slightly heavier sting would fix it for you.
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James Mayer
From:
back in Portland Oregon, USA (via Arkansas and London, UK)
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Posted 15 Nov 2011 1:59 pm
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Tom, threading another ball end is an excellent idea. I thought of putting shrink tubing around the wrap in hopes of providing a little cushion but I'll try the ball end and see how it goes.
"I've not had any issues with strings returning to pitch yet. Are you getting any binding anywhere .. a roller perhaps? Short of that, maybe the extra tension of a slightly heavier sting would fix it for you."
Really? Hmmm. I feel like I am using an unusually high tension unwound G. It's from a set that I purchased here on the SGF and that was listed as a selling point. Are you using wound or unwound for the G#? I figured wound would stand more of a chance of binding at the nut. |
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Posted 15 Nov 2011 2:56 pm
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| Quote: |
| Are you using wound or unwound for the G#? |
For an open E tuning, I've typically been using a wound 24 on the #3 - G# mainly because I don't like the sound of plain strings much over 22. While a 22 hits the A quite nice, its a little lose for the G#.
Does your steels headstock have a strait pull layout for the strings?
For me, that is an important consideration when adding one to my designs as I don't like or use roller nuts. I've found that a strait pull tilt back layout with about an 8 - 10 degree angle works great with a well cut slippery nut like Delrin / acetal - aka slipstone.
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Some misc pics of my hand crafted steels
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James Mayer
From:
back in Portland Oregon, USA (via Arkansas and London, UK)
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Posted 15 Nov 2011 3:02 pm
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It's a six-string version of this:
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Posted 15 Nov 2011 3:33 pm
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A tuner arrangement like that adds friction to the side of the nut slot and could be an additional source of possible binding.
I'd first confirm that you have good tension in the G# position. Check to make sure that the nut slot is properly sized, not too small, and has a rounded and smooth bottom.
It may also help to lube the nut slot with some graphite / pencil lead.
_________________
Some misc pics of my hand crafted steels
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