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Topic: what causes a string to return sharp |
Jacek Jakubek
From:
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 13 Aug 2009 6:44 pm |
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Hello,
Any suggestions why a string may return sharp after being lowered?
This was happening today to my 6th string G# after I used the knee lever that lowers it a tone to F#. The G# was a bit sharp after I released the knee lever. |
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Danny Bates
From:
Fresno, CA. USA
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Posted 13 Aug 2009 6:49 pm
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Jacek,
It sounds like you don't have enough "play" in your lever. Or maybe your return springs are getting weak or need to be replaced. |
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Bob Tuttle
From:
Republic, MO 65738
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Posted 13 Aug 2009 7:02 pm
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| That is a common problem known as "hysterisis". The longer the distance between the roller nut and the tuning key, the more noticeable it will be. Make sure your roller is turning freely. That will lessen the problem. |
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Bill Dobkins
From:
Rolla Missouri, USA
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Posted 13 Aug 2009 7:16 pm
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What Bob said, Raise the string of the roller and make sure it rotates. Also oil the rollers and, depending on what brand of steel you play the changer could be gumming up and needs a good cleaning.
BD
_________________
Custom Rittenberry SD10
Boss Katana 100 Amp
Positive Grid Spark amp
BJS Bars
Z~Legend Pro,Custom Tele
Honor our Vet's.
Now pass the gravy. |
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CrowBear Schmitt
From:
Ariege, - PairO'knees, - France
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Posted 14 Aug 2009 12:05 am
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| it can also be the ball end of a broken string that gets caught in the changer |
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Chris LeDrew
From:
Canada
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Posted 14 Aug 2009 3:52 am
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If it corrects itself when you raise the G# with the B pedal, you might have an issue either with the changer or the pull rods interfering with each other. I had a similar problem with my 4th string E raise on my LKL. The lower and raise rods were touching and causing the E raise to stick slightly sharp. When I lowered the E, it corrected itself. Frustrating to say the least. By making sure the rods were separated underneath, I rectified it.
Not sure if this was explained the best, so apologies for that. But I just wanted to point out that this problem has several potential roots.
_________________
Jackson Steel Guitars
Web: www.chrisledrew.com |
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Cal Sharp
From:
the farm in Kornfield Kounty, TN
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Posted 14 Aug 2009 10:38 am
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Bob Tuttle:
| Quote: |
| That is a common problem known as "hysterisis". The longer the distance between the roller nut and the tuning key, the more noticeable it will be. Make sure your roller is turning freely. That will lessen the problem. |
Yep, Reece explained that to me at the MSA factory once. Another thing you can do to lessen the problem is decide if you want to tune the string after it's been raised or after it's been lowered. I lower my 4th string (E) a whole lot more often than I raise it, so I tune it after I lower it.
_________________
C#
Me: Steel Guitar Madness
Latest ebook: Steel Guitar Insanity
Custom Made Covers for Steel Guitars & Amps at Sharp Covers Nashville |
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Chris Lang
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Posted 15 Aug 2009 9:02 am
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| Quote: |
| That is a common problem known as "hysterisis". The longer the distance between the roller nut and the tuning key, the more noticeable it will be. Make sure your roller is turning freely. That will lessen the problem. |
This is a problem with quite a few keyed guitars, and the reason why many people prefer a keyless system. A keyless GFI does not need a roller nut, so there is no way for the nut to "gum up"
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Kevin Hatton
From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
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Posted 15 Aug 2009 4:21 pm
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| Keyless steel guitar sound like doo-doo. Very likely a return spring adjustment if not the binding. |
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ebb
From:
nj
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Kevin Hatton
From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
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Posted 16 Aug 2009 8:30 am
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| I shouldn't say that because its just my personal preference. It doesn't make me right. By the way, I never liked Tom's tone on his keyless. He played light weight guitars because of his back and acknowledged that to me, and also that the Anapeg was a mechanically superior guitar. He also acknowledged that nothing sounded as good as his ZB's which he still owned and played at home. You can see a picture of the famous "Carnegie Hall" black guitar there on his web site sitting in his den. Whatever works for you is good. To each their own. There's nothing wrong with keyless, if thats what you like. |
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ebb
From:
nj
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Posted 16 Aug 2009 5:13 pm
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i was tweaking kevin who is one of the good guys.
i think he even likes al perkins.
we, including myself, should all be careful of imparting preference or prejudice on those asking for advise orthogonal to those preconceptions since they may be the very ones to dispel them for us in the future. |
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Kevin Hatton
From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
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Posted 16 Aug 2009 7:37 pm
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| I play steel guitar because of Al perkins. |
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Bob Mainwaring
From:
Qualicum Beach Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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Posted 16 Aug 2009 10:09 pm
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Hi there Jacek,
Most pickers and grinners I know that play steel have made a bad choice of using a lubricant for all mechanical parts on any moving parts on a steel guitar, either a small can of oil or WD40.
A lot of players have been using WD40 which dosen't leave a usable substance where it's needed.
In my daily job, I've been using 3-in-1 oil spray with Silicone for quite some time now and started selling it from my service van most days after I've explained it's good points to most of my customers.
It leaves just the right amount of silicone to keep things nice and slippery without leaving a black sticky mess.
The small red extension tube I cut into three pieces to enable the lubricant to be placed where it's needed and leaving the other two bits to be used when the first one gets missplaced.
Unlike a lot of steels, the Z.B. has springs which can be adjusted by tightening a retaining/adjustment screw which I always thought was a great idea.
One of the original springs could have a couple or more rings cut from the length to make them shorter.
All Z.B.est.
Baawwb. |
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Jacek Jakubek
From:
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 24 Aug 2009 6:44 pm
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Thanks for the advice, folks.
It looks like the problem was the pull rod rubbing against another pull rod and causing it to stick, like Chris LeDrew said.
It seems to return normally now. |
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