Emmons Issue - broken rod connector

Paul Rigby · From: Victoria, Australia

Hi there
I have an Emmons 10 string single neck E9, made in the 80s
Was playing last night and realised that the LKL that pulls the E to an F wasnt working and that the higher E was pulling waaaay to high.
I checked undermneath and saw that the wire connector (from rod to the moving "post" with three holes) had broken.
I refashioned the broken wire (made smaller) to connect but its thrown everthing way out.

My question is, is there a standard size for these wire connectors?
What should I consider if making one up from wire (being in Australia makes replacement parts a real drama)

Also, I messed about with the top E (4th string) and have totally got it outta whack. What sequence should I be tuning this to (open E? first, then the Dfl / Fsharp....). Got me stumped

If anyone can shine some light I'd be indebted
Paul

Billy Knowles · From: Kenansville, N. C. 28349 usa

Paul
Try .055 wire
Billy

Paul Rigby · From: Victoria, Australia

Clyde Mattocks · From: Kinston, North Carolina, USA

Try to fashion it as close to the original (using an
unbroken one as a pattern) as you can get. Then you
can adjust the slack by resetting the collar on that rod.
_________________
LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Fender Twin Tone Master, Session 400, Harlow Dobro, R.Q.Jones Dobro

Paul Rigby · From: Victoria, Australia

Thanks Heaps

So when i fix it - what's the sequence of tuning from the below tunings - ie what should i tune first and from

open
pedal C
Knee B
Knee A

Paul

Clyde Mattocks · From: Kinston, North Carolina, USA

Paul, assuming that you only changed the adjustments on the fourth (E) string : First make sure you have left enough slack that the E will drop to Eb plus a little overtravel. Then tune the E to F# raise on your C pedal. Then, true up the E note on the lower row of set screws in the end plate. Finally, tune the E to F raise with the hollow screw that is in the bellcrank swivel on the LKL knee lever.
_________________
LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Fender Twin Tone Master, Session 400, Harlow Dobro, R.Q.Jones Dobro

Paul Rigby · From: Victoria, Australia

Russ Wever · From: Kansas City

Paul,
The reason that the Raise Rod Hook
broke may have been that too much
tension was placed upon it by the
'C' pedal.
Be sure that the amount of travel
in the 'C' pedal is not so much
that it tries to pull the String
Finger beyond its point of contact
with the cabinet.
If this was the case, it is less
trouble that the Raise Rod Hook
fractured and broke rather than
the String Finger.
~Russ

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

To add to what my good friend, Russ, said- the fingers should hit the cabinet for the initial stop- but just a tiny titch later the real stop should be the pedal or lever stop that prevents too much tension from occurring at the changer end.

Erv Niehaus · From: Litchfield, MN, USA

That's what those little springs are for on the rods by the bellcranks.

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

The springs could help however I use them to balance the changes so that they start and stop together and the longest pull or lower for each pedal/lever typically will not have one- just my humble opinion.

Mike Cass · Posted 3 Jul 2009 6:47 am

Corect Jim, if one depends on the shock abpsorber springs to provide them with tuning room they'll be posting again here, soon.

The rule of thumb is to first hand-tune the changer slighty sharp(raises)or flat(lowers)of the note you want, then hook up the linkage, setting the pedal or knee stops concurrent with where the changer is tuned. When you flip it over and tune up you should then have a minute ammount of room in both raises and lowers, thus greatly lessening the chance that you'll lose your lowers if you hit an extreme temperature change or you like to leave your strings on awhile. Since the diameter of a string changes over its life, it makes sense to build in a little insurance against such happenings.

Erv Niehaus · From: Litchfield, MN, USA

Paul,
I don't know what's available in Australia but here in the US, I use the wire from those small flags that are used to indicate underground cable and such.

You need wire that has some temper in it, ordinary wire is too soft to maintain its shape.

Ken Byng · From: Southampton, England

You can buy 0.055 wire from model aircraft hobby shops. I use a couple of pairs of long nose pliers to shape and cut my hooks for my push pull.
_________________
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E,

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