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Topic: George L cables> need advice |
Terry Sneed
From:
Arkansas,
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Posted 10 Jun 2009 5:43 pm |
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I'm goin to try the George L cables. I got 20' and I think that will be enough to take care of my volume pedal cables, and a 9 or 10' vp to amp cable, and 2 3' cables to go from my Lexicon 110 to my amp.I got the 225 instead of the 155. What's the difference, besides thickness? When I cut the cable, do I peel the insultation back before I put the ends on, or do I just cut it and stick it through the plug and tighten the screw? How tight does it need to be ? thanks
Terry
_________________
1997 emmons legrande lll 8&5/ Nashville 112 with Fox chip mod LTD 400 / American Tele / John Jorgerson Takamine/ W/S Rob Ickes model dobro/
"May God Bless America Again" |
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Paddy Long
From:
Christchurch, New Zealand
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Posted 10 Jun 2009 5:49 pm
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Terry you just cut the cable off square with a very sharp knife, then push it firmly into the end of the plug and tighten down the grub screw (do not over tighten though)...!!
Apart from diameter there is no difference in the 2 cable sizes.
_________________
14'Zumsteel Hybrid D10 9+9
08'Zumsteel Hybrid D10 9+9
94' Franklin Stereo D10 9+8
Telonics, Peterson, Steelers Choice, Benado, Lexicon, Red Dirt Cases. |
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Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 10 Jun 2009 5:52 pm
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Make sure the cut is made with sharp cutters. If you are using George L plugs, all you do is stick the cable all the way into the hole and tighten the screw, making sure to not over tighten it. In the case of right angle plugs, you stick the cable into the opening and bend it into the little cutout and then screw the cover on hand tight. The biggest problem is making sure have a clean cut on the cable.
Hopefully this is not the case with the thicker cable, bit the smaller cable never lays flat creating a trip hazard on stage. If you roll the thin cable into a circular roll to store in your pak-a-seat, it retains the bends that you create when you coil it up. Then it's almost like a coil cord with huge coils. It would be much better with rubber outer covering than that crappy plastic they use. |
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Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
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Posted 11 Jun 2009 10:14 am
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I tried to go on the GL site but cannot acess it now, here are instructions from another site that sell GL products..Bill
Instructions for Assembling George L's Cable & Plugs
Straight Plugs Assembly:
1. DO NOT STRIP CABLE.
2. Cut with a sharp instrument. Make it straight and clean.
3. Back set screw out, far enough to allow cable to pass.
4. Put plug on cable and push plug on to the needle. This is your hot connection.
5. Tighten set screw down to touch the cable. Then tighten the screw 1 1/2 - 2 rotations. This is the ground connection.
Right Angle Plugs Assembly:
1. DO NOT STRIP CABLE.
2. Cut with a sharp instrument. Make it straight and clean.
3. Remove cap from right angle plug
4. Push cable onto the needle. DO NOT FORCE, and HOLD CABLE WITH YOUR THUMB.
5. Bend cable enough to start screwing the cap back on. Let the twisting of the cap bring the cable down.
6. Screw cap down completely to create the ground.
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!! |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 11 Jun 2009 11:12 am
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I would add one more step to Bill's post.
After you cut the cable, roll the end between your thumb and finger to make sure the end is nice and round.
Lee |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 11 Jun 2009 11:37 am
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Terry,
I not sure it was mentioned, but you need "ends" that are sized specifically for the .225 cable (which are different than those intended for use with the .155 stuff). The only difference between the two cables is the insulating jacket. The wire used is the same for both. |
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Terry Sneed
From:
Arkansas,
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Posted 11 Jun 2009 4:50 pm George L cable
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Thanks to all of ya'll for your help.
The plugs are the 225. same as the cables. I had to get right angle plugs, they were out of the straight.
I just hope I can tell a difference in my tone and noise. This cable and plugs are pricy!!  Thanks again.
Terry
_________________
1997 emmons legrande lll 8&5/ Nashville 112 with Fox chip mod LTD 400 / American Tele / John Jorgerson Takamine/ W/S Rob Ickes model dobro/
"May God Bless America Again" |
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Dennis Wood
From:
Savannah, TN USA
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Posted 11 Jun 2009 5:57 pm
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They may be a bit more expensive than normal cables, but they last for years. imperverious to rust, rot, mildew and if the connection fails, snip off an inch and land it back into the connector. You should never have to replace the connectors. I have some with the plating almost worn completely off, still work fine.
DW
_________________
auribus teneo lupum |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 11 Jun 2009 8:37 pm
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| Quote: |
| after you cut the cable, roll the end between your thumb and finger to make sure the end is nice and round. |
YES YES YES!
That's the key. I've used George L's for...yikes, maybe 25 years? I'll cut them with anything - big scissors, wire cutters, utility knife....and as long as I roll the end around AND do not over tighten them I have never had a bad connection. Some players never can seem to get them to work, and I have no idea why - they are incredibly simple.
Also, I use the thin stuff for pedalboard wiring and the thick type for my 6-string cable. It works fine on stage, just like anything else. The thin stuff is a bit of a struggle if you move around on 6-string or bass.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 2:02 am
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The George L's cables and straight connectors are great (and what I've used since George L's came out).
But, the right angle connectors suck and are a hassle to get properly connected and keep working. Even with my many years in electronics and working as an amp repair tech, I still hate them. |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 4:08 am
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| Jack Stoner wrote: |
| The George L's cables and straight connectors are great ....... the right angle connectors suck and are a hassle to get properly connected and keep working. E |
I agree!
I use the regular length straight connectors to hook into the guitar and amp, but I use the slightly longer "strat" style straight plugs with knurled handles for the volume pedal IN and OUT.
They're easier to insert and remove from the VP due to their additional length. The right angle connectors are way less reliable than the straight ends. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 4:26 am
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| Quote: |
| But, the right angle connectors suck and are a hassle to get properly connected and keep working. |
I guess I must have just the right touch screwing the tops on, because I've made over a hundred cables for myself, friends, band members etc and never had a single bad connection....nor one come loose, except once when someone tripped over one on stage and brought an amp crashing over on its face!
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 4:38 am
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Just to add to the discussion, one of the things I like is, if you have a bad connection, it can be repaired "in field", also make sure there is no stray strands of the ground braid that will get on the center lead. Also I mark the ends...print out(in different colors if you like) psg, vp in, vp out, amp in, etc,etc, I then trim, and put under clear shrink tubing about 2" from the appropriate ends, which leaves room for future repairs if needed. One last tip, make up an extra cord the same length of the longest one you use, that way, you always have a spare that will work anywhere if you don't have time for repairs.
Bill
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!! |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 6:01 am
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I'm still using 3 10ft cords that I made back in the 1980's. They have the old brass connectors. I've never had one fail. I have a few new, shorter ones that are probably 10 years old and I've never had a problem with them, either. That includes the one right-angle connector that I use at the guitar.
Terry, these are a good investment, in both the equipment and your sound.
Lee, from South Texas |
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Ben Jones
From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 7:17 am
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I only use george L's for pedal connections. For guitar to input and for output to amp i use standard guitar cables. These conndections are just too long to use expensive george L cable on, and also they are the only cables that need to be repeatedly plugged in and removed...so i prefer a soldered connection for these plugs. just my preference.
Ive only ever used the right angle plugs from george L, since they are all pedal connections and require the space saving L connectors. No real problems connecting em, no failures yet. |
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Earnest Bovine
From:
Los Angeles CA USA
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 11:17 am
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| Ben Jones wrote: |
| I only use george L's for pedal connections. For guitar to input and for output to amp i use standard guitar cables. These conndections are just too long to use expensive george L cable on, |
The cable from your guitar (pickup) to the first pedal or amp is the most important cable. In fact it may be the only one whose impedance makes a difference on the sound. The longer the cable, the more difference in sound between Hi-Z and Lo-Z cable. So you might want to try a George L cable, even a short one, from the guitar output, as an experiment to tell you whether you can hear a difference.
It really surprised me to learn that even with a 3 foot cable, from steel pickup to volume pedal, I can tell the difference between a George L and a cheapo. I prefer the George L because the cheapo loads the pickup in a way that attenuates the high frequencies. |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 11:35 am
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| Ben Jones wrote: |
| These connections are just too long to use expensive george L cable on, |
The way I look at it is, these connections are just too long to NOT use expensive George L cable on! 
Lee |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 11:43 am
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My only real complaint with the George L's cables (I guess it's the thin ones I use--I don't think I've seen the thicker kind, nor any kind of "boot" or covering at the connectors) is that the connector shafts are short and/or small diameter, so that in certain modern jacks they fit so loosely that for use with six-string guitar, where the guitar moves, there's a nightmare of intermittent signal interspersed with loud hum and crackling.
I complained about this before and people said "So change the jack!" But a) with "embedded" Tele-style jacks that's not so easy, and 2) If George L's would only make the connector shafts more robust, they'd suit every application. Wouldn't that be better?? |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 12:46 pm
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Brint - I have also noticed that when plugging in to my Fender Steel King. For some reason, my George L's don't fit the input exactly right on the Steel King and any movement of the cable causes the noises you mentioned. It seems like the tolerences are off just enough that the plug and the jack don't match up just right. I'm guessing it's the input jack on the FSK that isn't exactly right, since this is the only application that causes this problem.
Lee |
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Terry Sneed
From:
Arkansas,
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 2:20 pm George L cable
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| Quote: |
| Terry, these are a good investment, in both the equipment and your sound |
I hope so Lee. $70 for a 20' cable and 6 plugs. 
Terry
_________________
1997 emmons legrande lll 8&5/ Nashville 112 with Fox chip mod LTD 400 / American Tele / John Jorgerson Takamine/ W/S Rob Ickes model dobro/
"May God Bless America Again" |
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Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 2:47 pm
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| I use the right angle plugs and outside of having shorts when I first make them (found out I didn't have a clean cut), I have had absolutely no problems with them over the last 10 years. |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 3:01 pm
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Lee, I would guess that the input jack on the Steel King is of the modern, enclosed plastic type, as are the jacks on the G & L guitars where I have the problem. I don't know whether the jacks are under-designed or are so flimsy that they lose tightness easily. But a cheap, basic Whirlwind-type cord from the bargain bin in the chain music store works in those jacks just fine.
Are the George L's connectors generic hardware pieces that are used elsewhere, or are they purpose-manufactured for George L's? If the latter, why couldn't George L's adjust the specs so that the connectors would make connection as well in all applications as el cheapo ones do? |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 12 Jun 2009 7:25 pm
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Terry, that's pretty expensive. I believe Frenchy sells that cable for less than a dollar per foot. I think the connectors are less than $5 each.
Lee |
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Bill Leff
From:
Santa Cruz, CA, USA
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Posted 13 Jun 2009 7:59 am
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If you think George L is expensive, you should look around at some of the other high-end cable. George L is cheap in comparison.
I used George L for years, as well as Bill Lawrence's similar cable (I like his connectors better). I only use them on my pedal board now though.
For guitar to pedal board, and pedal board to amp, I've found other cables I like better (especially if I am plugging straight in from guitar to amp). Note that I do NOT play pedal steel though. I play a Stringmaster and various laps, and Gibson and Fender standard guitars.
For me, my guitars sound best with an Evidence Audio "Melody" cable or Lava ELC. The George L and Bill Lawrence cables have too much top end and not enough mids and bass. The Evidence Audio and Lava ELC sound more balanced.
You can buy George L cables, Lava ELC, Evidence and a lot more here:
http://www.lavacable.com/ |
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Ben Jones
From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
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Posted 13 Jun 2009 9:59 am
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| Earnest Bovine wrote: |
| Ben Jones wrote: |
| I only use george L's for pedal connections. For guitar to input and for output to amp i use standard guitar cables. These conndections are just too long to use expensive george L cable on, |
The cable from your guitar (pickup) to the first pedal or amp is the most important cable. In fact it may be the only one whose impedance makes a difference on the sound. The longer the cable, the more difference in sound between Hi-Z and Lo-Z cable. So you might want to try a George L cable, even a short one, from the guitar output, as an experiment to tell you whether you can hear a difference.
It really surprised me to learn that even with a 3 foot cable, from steel pickup to volume pedal, I can tell the difference between a George L and a cheapo. I prefer the George L because the cheapo loads the pickup in a way that attenuates the high frequencies. |
Earnest you have a good point there and the guitar to input cable is not all that long. I'll try it and see if it makes a diff. |
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