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Topic: Remove/Relocate Pedals on an MSA Classic? |
Duane Reese
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Posted 26 Apr 2009 2:44 pm |
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| Does anyone know the best way to remove and attach pedals on an MSA Classic? Do I have to remove the six little hollow pins that hold the bracket in the pedal bar, or knock out the pin that goes through the pedal and the bracket, or what? |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 26 Apr 2009 3:15 pm
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There's a hole in the pedal immediately above where the pedal rod fastens. (This hole is an alternate leverage point for the pedal and it's used by unscrewing the ball fitting from the lower hole, and inserting it into this one.) More importantly, there's an allen screw in the bottom of that top hole that tightens onto the pedal pivot pin, and that's what holds the pedal securely in the bracket. All you need to do is loosen the screw, and slide or gently tap out the pin.
Don't remove the U-bracket from the pedal bar unless it's absolutely necessary, and remember that if you use the top hole for the ball fitting, you may have to use a washer behind the ball fitting or grind it off slightly. (Usually, it will bottom out on the allen screw before the shoulder of the ball stud is firmly against the pedal, and this may cause the ball stud to break off eventually.) |
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Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
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Posted 26 Apr 2009 5:27 pm
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My Classics all play fine with the ball in the lower hole. I keep the pulls as close to the cross shafts as possible for the best leverage.
_________________
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro. |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 27 Apr 2009 7:38 am
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| In most cases, the lower ball-stud hole leverage point will work fine. However, I do have several floor pedals that work on both necks, and when you have to pull four or more strings with one pedal, the top hole is useful to reduce the effort. Also, it's okay to use the puller holes closest to the cross-rod, but that won't give you enough throw for some pulls. Particularly, the ones where you're doing more than a one-tone move. |
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Rich Peterson
From:
Moorhead, MN
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Posted 27 Apr 2009 9:59 am
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| Donny Hinson wrote: |
| Don't remove the U-bracket from the pedal bar unless it's absolutely necessary, |
Tom Bradshaw explained to me that the pins anchoring the bracket in the pedal bar (they are not screws) are so hard as to be nearly impossible to drill out. To mount a pedal in a different spot, get a new bracket made. |
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Tom Bradshaw
From:
Walnut Creek, California, USA
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Posted 27 Apr 2009 4:44 pm
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| I echo what Rich has said. If you do decide to remove one of the brackets (that is held in place by expansion pins), be prepared to drill a much larger hole than the expansion pins are in. After that, be prepared to take the pedal bar to a welding shop to have the holes filled with an aluminum weld. Even if you obtain a drill made out of the hardest steel, you will likely end up breaking it or having it drift off the expansion pin and end up with an ugly hole. I've given up on removing these easily and just assume I'll have to take the pedal bar to a good welder, followed by sanding down the weld down, followed by polishing out the whole pedal bar! Unless you can do the welding yourself and enjoy the extra work, have a bracket made and install it yourself. You will likely be money ahead on the project. ...Tom |
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