D-130 buying advice please

Tim Wilson · From: California, USA

These speakers are available locally. I have searched the forum and read a lot of posts from the past about the JBL D-130. It looks like these are original, unreconed D130s, 16 ohm with serial nos around 54000.

Am I right that these have the narrow voice coil gap and would have less power handling than the "F" version? Do any of you use this version for steel? Basically, should I avoid this version or not?

Thanks,
Tim

David Doggett · Posted 17 Apr 2009 12:23 pm

As I understand it, the wider voice coil gap on the D130F was as much to deal with wear and tear of transportation in guitar amps as for power handling. The D130F was nominally rated for more power because the frequency spectrum from a guitar is much narrower and more high pitched (meaning safer) than the full frequencies and lows the D130 was intended for. Actually both speakers seem to be able to handle about 60 watts RMS as a guitar speaker, maybe less with age.

I have a D130 that I pair with a D130F in Marrs cabinets for pedal steel. I hear no difference in them. I have used them very loud with a 100w Dual Showman Reverb head, and with a 180w Super Twin Reverb head. I figure the pair can handle 100-120w, and with a volume pedal I don't exceed that even with the Super Twin. I would not try to use them with the Super Twin and the volume pedal maxed out.

The bigger problem I see with the ones you show is that they are 16 ohm. Most guitar amps are 4 ohm. You could run them in parallel for 8 ohms, and most amps would be okay with that, but you will loose a little volume and work the amp harder. Many newer amps can switch speaker impedance.

Tim Wilson · From: California, USA

Thanks David -

So guys who are using a pair of D-130s with a Twin are using the 8 ohm versions in parallel - like what Ricky Davis and Lloyd Green have?

A forum member told me that this 16 ohm version was stock in the Standel tube amps and that the transformers were matched to the speaker.

David Doggett · Posted 17 Apr 2009 7:34 pm

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

Actually the original D130 (non"F") was rated only for 25 watts, and older non-recones can probably handle only 15-20 watts. The "F" version beefed up the power-handling to 60 watts. The designer has posted on several audio forums about this as the JBL literature for the "F" listed it as "100 watts continuous power" which really screwed up (and still does) a lot of players who put them in a 100-watt amp, crank it and blow the speaker. "Continuous" power has nothing to do with reality as far as amplifier applications go - it's just a sine-wave rating.
_________________
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Ron Randall · From: Dallas, Texas, USA

My 2c
A little advice for original vintage virgin D 130. (not F) These have very fragile paper like cones and surrounds. These 16 ohm speakers date from the 50's and 60's. They were built as audiophile "hi fidelity" speakers. And, they are.

Do not even think about playing a loud bass note thru the vintage virgins. They are quite fragile after all these years. A good one sounds great for steel and electric guitars but they are not loud by todays standards. If/when you find a good vintage virgin, save it for recording or practicing.

I use a pair of D130's reconed to 4ohms for playing out. They are mounted in a pair of Gary Walker's cabs. The voice coil gaps were machined to the 4 ohm spec. My amp has a switch on the back to go from 4 to 8 to 16 ohm. Great sound, plenty loud, with no break up.

I use the 16 ohm speakers in my practice space.

R2

Tim Wilson · From: California, USA

Thanks for the info and advice everyone - I believe I will keep looking for a D-130F then or find speakers needing a recone. That sounds like another can of worms!

David Doggett · Posted 18 Apr 2009 5:02 pm

Jim S., my impression from what I have read is that the D130 and D130F were identical except for the voice coil gap. The lower 25w rating for the D130 was for the full frequency range it was intended for, which would include bass in the mix. The higher rating on the F was not because it was beefed up, but because it was expected to be used as a guitar speaker, and so would not have to deal with the low bass frequencies. The way they arrived at 60w was to increase the power with a guitar until the speaker blew. When they used them in bass cabs, they were closed back, and they used two of them.

But of course the materials in the originals have got to be weaker now, even if they haven't been played much. And for heavy distortion you'd want to drop the rating even further.

Lee Jeffriess · From: Vallejo California

Ron, what do mean machined for 4 ohm spec?.
Lee

Dale Ware · From: Texas, USA * R.I.P.

I have two of these speakers stamped 16 ohm signature series. I put one in a Fender Steel King and it really changed the tone of the amp. I play? at a very low volume anyway so I don't guess it hurts the speaker. I think if they are reasonable they are worth trying. Dale

Ford Cole · From: Texas

Might be a good idea to check with Gerry Walker. He supplied me with two of his JBL cabnets which usually go along with the Walker Stereo Steed rig. Light weight and they sure do sound good!

Ron Randall · From: Dallas, Texas, USA

The size of the voice coil gap differs according to the windings on the voice coil itself. 16 ohm, 8 ohm and 4 ohm voice coils need different circular gaps in the magnet. It is a matter of sufficient clearance for the voice coil. As close as possible for efficiency, but not too tight or too loose. The gap cannot have high spots/low spots.

Speakers that were designed for hi fidelity audiophile use, did not see the rough handling of a musical instrument amp. Also, over tightening of the mounting screws by uninformed users, would slightly warp the speaker frame and cause the voice coil to rub inside the gap. The F designation on the D130 has a wider gap to deal with rough handling, and over tightened mounting screws.

You cannot see the gap until the speaker material is cut away, and the voice coil is removed. Then it can be checked for proper size and regularity, machined to spec, and then be reconed.

Gary Walker has the right speakers and cabs. (Walker Stereo Steel)

See: http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/speaker5.htm

R2

Lee Jeffriess · From: Vallejo California

Ron, so your saying you machined Hi Fi D130's, so as to re cone them with F gap type kits?.
I thought you were saying you had to do it to accommodate a 4 ohm kit.
Weber, is I believe saying that they have a paper to the edge kit that you can use with the Hifi gap, and is good for 60 watts.
As you point out improper mounting is a NO NO.
Lee

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