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Topic: Steel Guitar Clean-Up |
Keith Banning
From:
Bend, Oregon
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Posted 10 Apr 2009 7:37 am |
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Hi All,
I have a a Sho-Bud LDG that needs some cleaning up. Any suggestions on what to use on the wood finish and what to use to polish/brighten up the hardware? Looks like a bit of a project. I don't want to do any damage to the finish or hardware finish obviously.
Also, who does nice professional Sho-Bud restoration these days? I checked with Jeffrey Surratt but he's pretty busy with new guitars.
Thanks,
Keith |
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Randy Gilliam
From:
San Antonio, Texas, USA
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Posted 10 Apr 2009 8:26 am Redo
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Ricky Davis Does Great Work. Randy  |
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Kevin Hatton
From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
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Posted 10 Apr 2009 10:38 am
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| Ricky Davis. |
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Tim Woodall
From:
North Carolina, USA
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Posted 10 Apr 2009 4:44 pm
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Ricky Davis did a great job on mine
_________________
Tim Woodall
www.grasscats.com
Sho-Bud 6139 Ricky Davis overhauled with Coop parts |
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Johnny Thomasson
From:
Texas, USA
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Posted 11 Apr 2009 9:48 am
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Ricky made mine look and play like it just came from the factory.
_________________
Johnny Thomasson |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 11 Apr 2009 4:44 pm
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| Ricky is the un-contested "Shobud whisperer". Ricky's 'de man!! |
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Tommy Shown
From:
Denham Springs, La.
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Posted 11 Apr 2009 11:50 pm
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On the keys and the down near the roller I would recomend Mothers Aluminum polish. I put on the aluminum trim on my Emmons and it looks like a brand new guitar. BTW I also used it on my pedal rack too.
Talk about shine, when the light hits it.
Tommy |
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Bob Mainwaring
From:
Qualicum Beach Vancouver Island B.C. Canada
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Posted 12 Apr 2009 9:45 am
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The "ONLY" aluminum polish I've ever used for anything made and polished originaly out of aluminum is Solvol Autosol.
It comes in a toothpaste sized tube. I used/sold it for many years in a motorcycle business and even polishing little scratches in something like a plastic wristwatch dial covering will eliminate them.
All Z.B.est.
Bob Mainwaring |
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Keith Banning
From:
Bend, Oregon
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Posted 13 Apr 2009 9:51 pm
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I tried a little bit of Flitz (because it's what I had on hand) and it seemed to polish it a little better...but not w/o great effort. I'll check out some of these other suggested products.
Thanks guys.
Keith |
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Dave Diehl
From:
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
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Posted 14 Apr 2009 3:19 am
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| You can clean the body (lacquer and mica) with a good car cleaner for clear coat finishes. Then put a good car wax over it. It'll make a world of difference. As for the aluminum, Mothers alum mag polish works great. I've sanded the endplates before and then worked them with Mothers and they come out with a mirror finish. |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 14 Apr 2009 12:29 pm
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On this little S-10, I used Mequiar's Professional Swirl Remover 2.0. Did that 3 or 4 times. Then, believe it or not, Nu Finish once a year car polish. The stuff in the orange container. Couple coats of that. Mequiar's Show Car Glaze. Couple coats of that too.
I polished all the changer parts, the keyhead and the Grover's on my bench buffer. Sanded the endplates and rack up to 1200 wet and dry, then took them to a plating/ polishing company in Cleveland. I think he charged me $30. After I took this pic, I removed the white residue with an old, worn out, soft toothbrush.
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Daniel Eaton
From:
Weare , NH , USA
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Posted 14 Apr 2009 3:47 pm Tripoly Black
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Tripoly Black and then another round of Tripoly brown. I just finished my Pro 2 and for a left handed screwdriver type person it looks pretty good. I do advise that you tie back any long hair if you're going to use a dremel on small parts and your eyes are as bad as mine. I have a one inch round bald spot in the middle of my left cheek.And did I mention there are times I'm not very smart either
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Sho-Bud D10 With 8 & 4
Peavey Reno |
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