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Topic: Three hands for changing strings |
Phil Halton
From: Holyoke, Massachusetts, USA
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Posted 28 Mar 2009 5:47 pm
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Do you ever wish you had three hands for changing strings? I change my strings using the method shown on the Carter website:
http://www.cartersteelguitars.com/supportvideos/changing_strings.html
I use my left hand to crank the string winder--that's one, my right hand to manipulate and guide the string onto the tuning post--that's two, and my right elbow to hold up the string at around the middle of the guitar to keep tension on it as I wind the string onto the post and to keep the ball end from slipping out of the crow's foot--that's three.
I always found that just putting that sharp bend in the string at the post wasn't enough to keep it from slipping out as I tensioned the string, and it requires that you visually guide and lock down the string onto the post while keeping just the right amount of tension on the string with the right hand--I always found that a bit tricky.
Draping the string over my right elbow, and holding the string in place at the post with the right hand lets me keep the string taught while giving greater control over the post winding. That can help when changing some of the heavier gauge strings that need to be muscled around a bit. As the string tightens down, I replace elbow with wrist, and finally out from under altogether. Doing things this way lets me change strings with my eyes closed--braille method all the way.
BTW: this method was developed and thoroughly tested by a blind player--no joke--it works well.
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Andy Sandoval
From: Bakersfield, California, USA
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Posted 28 Mar 2009 6:32 pm
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The two handed method demonstrated in that video works good but does take a little practice. It's not that hard to master. ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
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Tommy Shown
From: Denham Springs, La.
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Posted 28 Mar 2009 6:49 pm
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Phil there is an easier way, that I have just learned. All you need is wire cutters and string winder.First thing take the string out of the envelope and slightly bend it down at the ball end,
Second place the ball end of the string over the peg end at the changer, after placing the ball end on the peg, take handle of the wire cutters and place them over the end. This will keep the string in place while you are threading it through the opposite end.
Third, once the string has been ran through the string holw at the opposite end, take up the slack and keep tension on the string. This will cause the string to wrap neatly around the post and clip off the excess string with the wire cutters.
I have been playing for going on 30 years now and to me this is the easiest and quickest way to change strings. I did my E9 necin about 20minutes |
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Phil Halton
From: Holyoke, Massachusetts, USA
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Posted 28 Mar 2009 7:47 pm
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Would you anticipate any difficulties using those methods with your eyes closed? That's the key issue here. You see, the blind guy who developed that method was me, and I know that without seeing whats going on, other methods are beyond difficult. Try dchanging a string blindfolded--maybe it'll work, but I couldn't do it your way, or Carter's way without a little more "hands on" tactile feedback.
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I know another blind guy who won't even attempt to change his own strings. Honestly, I'd like to know if you can use those other methods with eyes closed without problems--just for the knowin'. I had a devil of a time until I came up with this "braille" method--not that I'm the only one who does this I'm sure.
BTW: It takes me about an hour to change out my E9 strings, but I was always a little slow. ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
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Brian Kurlychek
From: Maine, USA
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Posted 28 Mar 2009 8:32 pm
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I first measure the string and cut it with wire cutters 2 posts longer than the one I am using.
I bend the string a little at the ball, then stick it on the post and hold it in place with my pinky while I run the other end through the eyehole in the tuning peg.
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Then I pull slighlty upward keeping tension on the string like a bow and arrow and use the string winder. It works for me and I can do it fast. _________________ We live to play another day. |
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Tom Quinn
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Posted 28 Mar 2009 9:20 pm
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I found a perfect no-brainer way for my Sho-Bud -- I wedge a Q-Tip into the slot behing the string ball on the post. Works everytime... |
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Tommy Shown
From: Denham Springs, La.
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 12:33 am
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The wire cutter handle helps keep the ball end secured to the post down in the changer. once you run the string through the post hole you take excess and pull and hold it along side of the string you are wrapping while turning the post a couple of turns you are pulling the string to take up the slack on it. It is hard for me to put in words.
But as I previoulsy said the string wraps neater on the post. I would not recomend a Q-tip because of the possiblilty of the cotton coming off of the tip and getting in between the actual roller and the rod in the changer. Nor would I recomend foam rubber. Another item to use instead of the handle of the wire cutter is a wooden wedge. Look, it's 3 in the morning,and I'working. I hope I explained it a little better than before. Oh BTW, make sure you have removed the old string off before putting the new one on.
If you gonna play it
Play it Country and play it pretty
Tommy |
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Tommy Shown
From: Denham Springs, La.
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 12:37 am
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The wire cutter handle helps keep the ball end secured to the post down in the changer. once you run the string through the post hole you take excess and pull and hold it along side of the string you are wrapping while turning the post a couple of turns you are pulling the string to take up the slack on it. It is hard for me to put in words.
But as I previoulsy said the string wraps neater on the post. I would not recomend a Q-tip because of the possiblilty of the cotton coming off of the tip and getting in between the actual roller and the rod in the changer. Nor would I recomend foam rubber. Another item to use instead of the handle of the wire cutter is a wooden wedge. Look, it's 3 in the morning,and I'working. I hope I explained it a little better than before. Oh BTW, make sure you have removed the old string off before putting the new one on.
If you gonna play it
Play it Country and play it pretty
Tommy |
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Ulric Utsi-Ã…hlin
From: Sweden
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 1:14 am
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Non-ideal situation...less than an hour to Showtime,
and You have to string & tune-up one 12-string PSG
AND one Strat w/ a floating Floyd-Rose trem...not
for the faint at heart...McUtsi |
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Tommy Shown
From: Denham Springs, La.
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 2:05 am
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Ulric, it took me about 20minutes to re-string my E9, and about 15minutes to tune it. Also I failed to mention when you go to cut the strings a towel over the changer to keep the strings from flying off when you go to cut them with the wire cutters. Tommy |
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James Martin (U.K.)
From: Watford, Herts, United Kingdom * R.I.P.
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 2:48 am
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If it takes you more than a couple of minutes to change a string you are doing it wrong. Before the better strings came along (Jagwire Cobra etc)it was a certainty that you would break a string or two at a gig and after thirty years of playing every weekend I find I can change a string at a gig halfway thru a song and be ready for the next song within 90 seconds or so.I do exactly the opposite of the demo on the Carter site. I feed the peg end first, that way the ball end won't keep popping out as you work away. It takes me about 20/25 mins or so to change a complete set. I don't find it a big deal. |
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Buck Dilly
From: Branchville, NJ, USA * R.I.P.
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Brian McGaughey
From: Orcas Island, WA USA
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 3:59 am
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Phil,
You must rely on the fact that the string sets you buy are in the right order in the package, right? And remove and replace one at a time.
Seriously, I couldn't imagine changing strings blindfolded. ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
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Phil Halton
From: Holyoke, Massachusetts, USA
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 9:17 am
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[quote="Brian McGaughey"]Phil,
You must rely on the fact that the string sets you buy are in the right order in the package, right? And remove and replace one at a time.
Seriously, I couldn't imagine changing strings blindfolded. [/quote]
Hey Brian, you're the only one who got the point. Point being, how do you change your strings with eyes closed--either by eyelid muscle or God? Even finding the right crowfoot to place the ball-end in, or jam a piece of rubber under is problematic. Not that it really matters, but I want to know how peoples methods work when eyesight is out of the equation. That's why I came up with the way I do it--I guess its only of interest to other sight impaired or flat out blind folks.
For the heck of it, try changing a string your way with eyes closed--no fair peeking neither. I think you would encounter some problems that need a work-around--like a third hand or a couple of valium.
I just threw this idea out there because I was bored, but its interesting to think about. Like Buddy Emmons, I heard, would practice with eyes closed at times--maybe to see if he could still play if he went blind
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Bent Romnes
From: London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 11:51 am
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[quote="Phil Halton"]
Brian McGaughey wrote: |
Buddy Emmons, I heard, would practice with eyes closed at times--maybe to see if he could still play if he went blind
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...or to train himself to take his eyes off the frets once in a while ..makes for great stage presence!
Phil, you have my utmost respect and admiration. You are overcoming the number one rule that steel players need to observe..keep your eye on the bar to line it up with the fret.
I believe you are the man who posted a tune on youtube a while back. I think it is time you post another one to show us all your progress.
Good luck with what you are accomplishing!
with respect,
Bent |
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David Nugent
From: Gum Spring, Va.
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 12:12 pm string changing
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I use the exact method as Brian K. and find it to be the easist for me...FWIW..When changing strings, always turn each nut roller 1/4 to 1/2 turn before installing the new string. This may prevent a groove being formed from the string constantly riding in one section of the roller. (Common cause of buzzing strings.) |
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Tommy Shown
From: Denham Springs, La.
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 3:46 pm
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Brian McGaughey wrote: |
Phil,
You must rely on the fact that the string sets you buy are in the right order in the package, right? And remove and replace one at a time.
Seriously, I couldn't imagine changing strings blindfolded. ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
Brian, on the back of the pack on the liner,there is the guage and where the string position is located,and they're packed in order from the factory.
For example string 1 is .012,string 2 is .015, string 3 is .010 or .011, and so on up to string 10 being .036 W or .038 W depending on the manufacturer on the E 9 neck.Tommy |
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Ernest Cawby
From: Lake City, Florida, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 7:04 pm hi
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Get a rubber door stop and cut it ti size works great to hold the ball end in place. I like the keyless better, pull it thru turn the screw and done.
ernie |
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John Steele (deceased)
From: Renfrew, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 7:19 pm
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I think people get entirely too wound up about the changer end of the string coming off. Let it. Concentrate on getting the first few winds on the peg properly while keeping tension on the string, and when it gets close to the changer, stop, pop it on and hold it up in an arc with your finger and finish tightening it. No special tools required.
- John |
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Tommy Shown
From: Denham Springs, La.
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 10:47 pm Re: hi
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Ernest Cawby wrote: |
Get a rubber door stop and cut it ti size works great to hold the ball end in place. I like the keyless better, pull it thru turn the screw and done.
ernie |
That'll work too, Ernest or a wedge of wood, I would not recomend using foam rubber or a Q-tip due to the fact some of the swab or foam could break and get caught in the changer. And yes can take the string out of the package one at a time.
Tommy |
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Skip Edwards
From: LA,CA
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Posted 29 Mar 2009 11:04 pm
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I've got a few of those black rubber wedges that piano tuners use to deaden certain strings. One size for my p/p, and a small one to fit my Sho-Bud. Once I lasso the string around the pin on the changer and wedge one of those rubber dealies in there to hold it in place, I can take my time, and not have to worry about not having an extra hand.
Works for me. |
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Larry Moore
From: Hampton, Ga. USA
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Posted 2 Apr 2009 7:44 am
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I use a wooden close pin on my Emmons It works fine. I keep one in the bag with wire cutter and small electric screw driver
Larry |
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Chris LeDrew
From: Canada
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Posted 2 Apr 2009 9:09 am
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My technique is like yours, Phil. I put the string in the changer slot/pin, wrap the string around my elbow (to keep pressure on the string), and wrap the other end around the machine head - this is with my right hand. I wind the peg with my left hand.
It generally takes me about ten minutes to change the E9 neck. I like the block idea, though. Time for someone to start selling one at the shows. ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
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Dennis Saydak
From: Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 2 Apr 2009 12:09 pm
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Problem solved!
![](http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/userpix0903/7268_Williams_600Changer_1.jpg) _________________ Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Dennis Saydak
From: Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 2 Apr 2009 12:09 pm
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Duplicate post deleted. _________________ Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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