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Topic: Dobro Spider Tension Advice |
Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 31 Mar 2009 1:04 pm |
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Can someone please enlighten me regarding the proper tensioning of the spider adjusting screw? The following information is from the Resoguit web site and it has me somewhat confused.
"Place a small, flat bladed screwdriver through the center hole in the cover plate and tighten the screw until you Just feel resistance. Tighten an additional one-quarter turn and leave it there."
I guess my basic question is ...
Is the center ring of the cone where the screw enters it supposed to make "light" contact with the underside of the spider?
I can see only two possibilities for resistance to occur. One is if the screw head makes contact with the top of the spider and two, if the top of the cone comes in contact with the underside of the spider.
Thanks in advance for your help.
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Jim Konrad
From:
The Great Black Swamp USA
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Posted 31 Mar 2009 1:56 pm Re: Dobro Spider Tension Advice
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| Dennis Saydak wrote: |
I can see only two possibilities for resistance to occur. One is if the screw head makes contact with the top of the spider and two, if the top of the cone comes in contact with the underside of the spider.
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Neither one.....
The spider is not threaded, and the center of the cone will not touch the spider. The resistance happens when the screw begins to suck the cone up toward the spider. I think if you try to do it, you will answer your own question... |
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Lynn Oliver
From:
Redmond, Washington USA * R.I.P.
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Posted 31 Mar 2009 3:47 pm Re: Dobro Spider Tension Advice
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| Jim Konrad wrote: |
Neither one.....
The spider is not threaded, and the center of the cone will not touch the spider. The resistance happens when the screw begins to suck the cone up toward the spider... |
I agree although I think this is the same thing as the screw head contacting the top of the spider. Regardless of semantics, you take up the slack and then turn an additional amount, somewhere between 1/4 and 3/4 turns. |
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Billy Gilbert
From:
Texas, USA
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Posted 31 Mar 2009 5:56 pm cone-spider tension
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| The generally accepted way to adjust the cone screw is to loosen it off until the strings "rattle" or "buzz" when you strum across the strings. Then tighten the screw about an 8th of a turn and strum again. Repeat until the rattle or buzz goes away, then tighten the screw another 1/8th to 1/4 turn and it should be about as good as you can get it. If the screw is too loose you get a buzz, if it's too tight it can restrict the vibration of the cone and dull the tone or too much tightening can damage the cone. Billy |
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Ulric Utsi-Åhlin
From:
Sweden
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Posted 31 Mar 2009 10:04 pm
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Yes,and I´d rather land closer to "rattle" than
"dull" for a lively sound ; two major tone-killers
are: tension screw over-adjustment AND severe angle
inserts-to-tail piece.McUtsi |
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Tobie Schalkwyk
From:
South Africa
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Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 1 Apr 2009 11:29 am
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Everyone, thanks for all the good information.  Billy, your explanation is much clearer (to me) than the tighten till you feel resistance approach.
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Billy Gilbert
From:
Texas, USA
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Posted 1 Apr 2009 12:09 pm cone ajusting screw
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You are welcome Dennis. This question comes up often on the reso "lists".  Billy |
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Garry Vanderlinde
From:
CA
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Posted 1 Apr 2009 6:21 pm another approach
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My old friend Larry Brown, a well respected luthier in the L.A. area told me:
4 turns is max...most usual is 1 1/2 turns.
It always works for me. |
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John Drury
From:
Gallatin, Tn USA
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Posted 5 Apr 2009 6:11 am
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Too many players look at that screw as some type of an adjust to taste kind of thing. 9 out of 10 guitars I have worked on have had a cone that had been destroyed by some screwdriver wielding tone guru.
I was taught by the two guys that I considered to be "Master Craftsmen" concerning reso building and repair, Bill Merritt, and Gene Wooten, to turn the screw until contact is made by all spider legs, no shimming! If any leg on the spider bridge doesn't make contact with the cone, dissassemble it and bend it until it does! And hope the leg doesn't snap off!
After contact by all legs, turn another 1/2 turn.
I make this adjustment with the spider and cone in my hand, I then install a full length maple with ebony cap saddle and assemble.
This is a "set it and forget it" adjustment as far as I am concerned. When I set a guitar up there is no access to the screw when it leaves here unless someone asks for it. If the guitar is not buzzing, leave the screw alone.
No complaints as of yet.
_________________
John Drury
NTSGA #3
"Practice cures most tone issues" ~ John Suhr |
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Clyde Mattocks
From:
Kinston, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 5 Apr 2009 11:52 am
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I, likewise learned what I know about this from Gene Wooten. The hard way is you have to ruin a cone or two before you understand. Tightening the screw will never get a rattle out that is caused by poor contact and it can be frustrating. I agree that the best tone and volume is achieved by having it almost
(but not quite) loose enough to rattle. For that
reason, I would always want to have acess to the adjustment screw for tweaking.
_________________
LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Fender Twin Tone Master, Session 400, Harlow Dobro, R.Q.Jones Dobro |
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John Drury
From:
Gallatin, Tn USA
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Posted 5 Apr 2009 3:47 pm
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Clyde,
I have followed Bill and Genes instructions to the letter, never ruined a cone, just replaced a lot of already ruined cones.
It goes back to getting all six spider legs to touch down in unison, then tighten another 1/4 to 1/2 turn just enought to where the spider will not turn on the cone. Then put the assy. in the guitar. There is absolutely no need for the screw after that point.
This is assuming that there is a level surface above the sound well or soundring above the posts.
It is however easy to snap a leg off a spider, due to sandholes, etc.. If they are that far off I usually send them back for a replacement.
_________________
John Drury
NTSGA #3
"Practice cures most tone issues" ~ John Suhr |
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Clyde Mattocks
From:
Kinston, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 5 Apr 2009 4:13 pm
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John, what I meant was I ruined a cone BEFORE I followed Gene's instructions to the letter. These
lessons stick! But I respectfully disagree about having NO need for the screw after that. I just like
to tweak.
_________________
LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Fender Twin Tone Master, Session 400, Harlow Dobro, R.Q.Jones Dobro |
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Todd Clinesmith
From:
Lone Rock Free State Oregon
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Posted 5 Apr 2009 10:15 pm
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Clyde and John are correct. ..... But I don't make final tension screw adjustments until strings are at full tension, and firm contact is made between the spider and cone from screw adjustment, after that up to a 1/2 turn is plenty. More turns create a tighter unit which stifles resonation of the cone and spider. This is a less is more situation. If you have a buzz that won't go away, an unlevel spider is usually the case and over tension will not cure the problem.
Dennis to answer your questions. The center of the cone does not make contact with the center of the spider only the outsides of the legs. Yes the resistance is between the head of the screw and the spider... and the legs of the spider and the cone, tho I bet you figured this out by now.
Todd |
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