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Topic: '' Mica Polish '' |
Gary Preston
From:
Columbus, Ohio, USA
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Posted 8 Jan 2009 6:03 pm |
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Hey guys . I was wondering what everyone uses to polish their mica bodies on their pedal steel guitars ? 
Thanks in advance . G.P. |
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Austin Tripp
From:
Nashville TN
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Posted 8 Jan 2009 7:47 pm
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I know this sounds dumb, but Pledge Multi Surface wipes. Just did it tonight, works wonderful!
Austin
_________________
"Hotrod"
Steel guitarist for Cody Jinks
Member CMA |
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Sonny Priddy
From:
Elizabethtown, Kentucky, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 8 Jan 2009 7:49 pm polish
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| Gary I Use Pledge Works Great Put It On Let It Set About 2 Mi. Wipe Off with Something Soft It Will Shine And Clean At The Same Time. SONNY. |
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Zach Keele
From:
Murfreesboro, Tennessee, USA
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Posted 8 Jan 2009 9:59 pm
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I was told by a reliable source to use gasoline.
But I'm not telling you to do that.  |
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Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 8 Jan 2009 10:56 pm
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It depends on your mica.
If you have the old black Formica Brand mica from the 1960s, for example, you can polish out scratches and still retain the black color. If you have newer mica, you will go through the black and get gray or whitish coming through, I have heard.
On my old Emmons guitars I have polished the mica with rubbing compound and the only downside is that I have turned "flattish" mica into gloss.
FYI, on guitars that have had Emmons stickers replaced with Emmons badges with screws, I have filled the screw holes with black Crazy Glue from Luthier's Mercantiie sold for repairing ebony fretboards) and polished the glue flat with wet/dry and rubbing compound. |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 3:33 am
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I've used a Teflon based auto polish for years. On my old 71 PP Emmons and on my 81 Franklin since it was new.
"I can run my guitar through the car wash and it still beads up"  |
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Michael Haselman
From:
St. Paul
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 5:38 am
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Mark me down for the Pledge wipes. And I thought it up all on my own!! They work great, handy as heck, and they work on the chrome and aluminum too.
_________________
Mullen RP D10, Peavey NV112, Hilton volume. Hound Dog reso. Piles of other stuff. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 5:56 am
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| Quote: |
I was told by a reliable source to use gasoline.
But I'm not telling you to do that. |
I wouldn't!
"mica" (why that became the term is anyone's guess) is just a term for Formica, a type of plastic sheet made of paper or cloth with melamine resin (and a trademarked brand name). It's an ancient technology as far as plastics go, from the early 20th century - and 99% of what is called "mica" or Formica" nowadays in normal conversation isn't made that way. The Formica company makes everything from plastics to faux-wood veneers.
Basically ANY plastic that comes in a thin sheet is invariably called "formica" in normal usage.
SO the cleaning depends on what TYPE of plastic it is - since the term "formica" is used for the brand-name stuff (of which there are a multitude of formulations) and all the similar products, you either have to test solvent-based cleaners on a hidden surface to see if you get a reaction, or stay with mild cleaners like dish soap/water or citrus-based cleaners.
I would not get acetone (nail polish remover) or Windex (ammoniated) andywhere near it - Windex especially if the guitar is also aluminum, as ammoniated cleaners WILL pit the heck out of aluminum over time - even AFTER you've wiped it off. The only solvent you might try (on a removed piece..on the back) is naphtha, aka lighter fluid (like the Ronson stuff) - it usually is safe with plastics, cleans them and removes both dirt and sticker gunk.
But your safest bet is just water and dish or hand soap with a soft cotton cloth. Nothing abrasive, and no solvent unless you test first.
Last - DO NOT try to polish it (Jack's method is probably safe as Teflon-based polishes have very mild abrasives - but use auto polishing compound and your "mica" could be toast)- some types have a thin color veneer and polishing quickly exposes the gray base material.
Hope that helps.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Richard Parks
From:
Oklahoma, USA
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 6:06 am Mica polish
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I use Harley Gloss. It's non-abrasive and makes it shine like a diamond and doesn't attract dust.
_________________
Carter D10 8 & 5, NV112, FLSTC |
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Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 6:14 am
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The "mica" on my Franklin is Nevamar brand. I use the polish I mentioned on all parts, the fretboards, polished aluminum and the mica. I don't know what brand Emmons used on the 1971 models but I had it for 12 years and polished it and it didn't harm the mica.
One other thing, you can touch the polished aluminum or wherever on the guitar and it won't leave fingerprints.
The polish I've used for the last 6 or 7 years is a flea market Teflon based brand "Las Vegas Show Car Polish" but I've seen the identical stuff sold under different names at different flea markets. |
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Mike Cass
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 7:27 am
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Chris made a good point about going thru the new mica easily. If I have a guitar stripped to the body for restoration and Im saving the mica I'll use a car buffer to apply the polishing compound, pressing just enough to polish.
However, a great quick-clean for an assembled guitar is to use a de-greaser product available at most Auto Zone stores; its called Prep-All and its harmless to metal, mica, lacquer, fretboards and decals/badges. A quick wipe-down with a soft,clean cloth dampened with the stuff followed by a second wipe-down with a soft,dry cloth will restore most intact finishes to a fine luster without the possibilty of making scratch marks. The Emmons factory used this for years(under the name Prep-Sol)to wipe down their guitars prior to casing and shipping. In my experience, while applying a polish to the mica may give it a bit more shine, if your mica is not sctratched and just dirty Id try the Prep-All first. I sent a bottle to David Hartley and he was quite satisfied with the results.
There was another product I found called UV-2 which was distributed by NAPA Auto Parts. It gave an extremely nice shine after applying it and allowing it to dry overnight. Go back and wipe it down the next day and you'll be surprised what it'll do. The downside to UV-2 is that in a few months the mica will again take on its former appearance. But this stuff works like Olde English Scratch Cover, only for mica surfaces. Ive seen it bring a really dinged up, milky mica finish back to new after 1 or 2 applications, but only for a few months. Worth it though if your mica is old and shows it. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 7:43 am
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If your mica is dull and/or scratched up, I have had
great luck with a 3M product called Finesse-It II. |
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Tamara James
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 10:29 am
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| Please check with jagwire. He has some great stuff for mica. I use it. Tommy Allison told me about it. I think he has it on the jagwire site. |
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Gary Preston
From:
Columbus, Ohio, USA
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 1:50 pm
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Hey guys . Thanks for the tips . I have a new Emmons and was wondering what i should use to keep it looking new . It's black ''you know that '' ! I need to know quick because we have a steel jam next Saturday and i want it to be shinerer than Sonny Curtis Emmons  Just funnin around !  |
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KENNY KRUPNICK
From:
Columbus, Ohio
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 2:04 pm
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| I'm going over to Auto-Zone,and get some of that Prep-All. |
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Gary Preston
From:
Columbus, Ohio, USA
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Posted 9 Jan 2009 2:07 pm
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Hey Kenny try it on yours first then i will look at yours !
Mike Cass do you know if Emmons still uses that kind of ''Mica '' cleaner ? |
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Mike Cass
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Posted 10 Jan 2009 12:46 pm
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Gary,
I dont know if they use that particular item, but I left a bottle of it there last Jan. after building several guitars for them.
PrepAll isnt a polish, but a degreaser. That makes it good for formica as the only thing besides scratches that dull mica are grease/liquor/smoke or plain old dirt & fingerprints. PrepAll would only produce positive results if you have new or new looking mica to begin with, so in your case Gary it should do the trick.
Older mica would require a try at polishing though, I would think. After I polish mica I do use PrepAll to wipe off the excess compound. |
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Don Brown, Sr.
From:
New Jersey
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Posted 10 Jan 2009 9:39 pm
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Gary,
For a show Car finish, use Meguiar's Mirrow Glaze Professional #7.. It's non abrasive, and really puts a shine on. As well as protects it.
Hope that helps. "It's not cheap, but then too, neither are guitars..." 
PS: Hope you're getting lots of enjoyment out of it now that you've had time to play it for a while.
Don |
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Gary Preston
From:
Columbus, Ohio, USA
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Posted 15 Jan 2009 6:15 pm
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Thanks for the tips guys . I just want it to keep looking new for a long time .
Don i am getting use to it now and it feels real good . My wife tells me that it sounds better than the first guitar . It does sing to me and has great tone . I still need to get busy and get the counterforce dialed in . It doesn't keep the strings from ''de-tuning '' just a little . But the bar placement can cover that and no one has said ''hey your counterforce isn't working right '' yet ! All things considered i suppose i'm happy with it and it's a ''keeper '' ! It is lots lighter than my ''Buds '' ! Our group played last Saturday evening and the leader said the guitar does sound good . He liked my Buds as well . Thanks . G.P. |
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KENNY KRUPNICK
From:
Columbus, Ohio
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Posted 15 Jan 2009 10:48 pm
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Danny Hullihen
From:
Harrison, Michigan
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Gary Preston
From:
Columbus, Ohio, USA
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Posted 19 Jan 2009 5:33 pm
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| Hi Danny . Please send the '' Mica and Aluminum '' polish to me . You have my address . Thanks for the help . G.P. |
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Glen Derksen
From:
Alberta, Canada
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Posted 19 Jan 2009 6:08 pm
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| I once used Armor-All on the padded dashbord of a 1964 Chevy Nova. It made the dashboard look almost new except for some natural discoloration from the sun. I'm not sure if Armor-All is still manufactured, but I think that would be a good choice if it's still available. |
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KENNY KRUPNICK
From:
Columbus, Ohio
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Posted 20 Jan 2009 11:16 am
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| Danny, I'd like to have some also. I still have some of the aluminum polish,and it's THE best for end plates,pedal bars,and all aluminum trim on guitars. I'd love to try your Jagwire mica polish too. |
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Danny Hullihen
From:
Harrison, Michigan
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