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Topic: When Cutting Pvc Pipe |
Ernest Cawby
From: Lake City, Florida, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 29 Oct 2008 1:34 am
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When cutting PVC pipe, use gloves, hold pipe very firmly, I relaxed my grip last year and almost did what Bobbe did.
I used this on bar holders.
I let the pipe kick backward and did bad damage to the first joint of the FIRST finger on my left hand, now I have no feeling in the end of the finger and cannot tell how much pressure I have on the bar.
Again never relax your grip on the pipe and it will work, Accidents can happen so quick, be CAREFULL.
AS EVER
ERN |
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Bill Hatcher
From: Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2008 4:32 am
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Cut on the band saw. The blade is always moving DOWN and pulling the work down and will only kick "down".
Both tools are to be respected, but the bandsaw to me is the safest for cutting things that can shatter easily. |
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Ken Byng
From: Southampton, England
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Posted 29 Oct 2008 4:40 am
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It is not worth trying this with a hacksaw. Sprung loaded pipe cutters are not expensive and will give a much better finish than a hacksaw. _________________ Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
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John Groover McDuffie
From: LA California, USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2008 8:22 am
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Thanks, but a little late Ernest. I was trying to make a lengthwise cut in a 4" length of PVC yesterday with a hacksaw and the saw slipped off to the side and cut my left index finger.
Fortunately it wasn't a power tool so the damage is minor. A few days with neosporin and band-aids is preferable to multiple surgeries. I should know better after wounding my hand with a chisel a few years ago in a similar manner. |
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John Billings
From: Ohio, USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2008 12:42 pm
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I prefer using my mitre box. I've got a real good one, with a very fine-toothed blade. Very clean cuts with just a few passes of the saw. And always perfectly square. Your fingers are never even near the blade. For a lengthwise cut, I just clamp on a couple pieces of scrap 2X4. Not a power tool, but almost as fast. |
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Danny James
From: Summerfield Florida USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2008 1:39 pm
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Gloves have their place but not around machinery that is turning or spinning.
At Cummins engine Co. where I retired after 30 yrs.----I was working beside a guy who was wearing gloves and running a slitting mill. (it was against the rules to wear gloves while running a machine) It had like four 4 inch diameter saw blade type of milling cutters. His glove caught and cut four of his fingers through the bone.
I wrapped his hand in a rag and applied pressure to slow the bleeding, and walked him to first Aid.
They sent him to the hospital and they re-attached his fingers which were not cut completely off. His hand was never the same again.
Please be careful read instructions and if in doubt ask experienced woodworkers or machinists before taking a chance on getting hurt. It just isn't worth it. ![Sad](images/smiles/icon_sad.gif) |
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Ernest Cawby
From: Lake City, Florida, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 29 Oct 2008 2:35 pm Best Way To Rip
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Iike the idea of using a band saw, I make cut offs with a PVC cutter have 2 that will cut up to 1 1/2"s,
when using a table saw I never put my hand past the edge of the table, uase several size push sticks for going into the blade, I have 3 1/4" 3/8" and 3/4, to push them thru, you would have to be carefull using gloves as mentioned, as I say I never go pass the edge about 8" from the blade.
My archery instructor lost 2 finger to a table saw.
I will put the blade back on my band saw.
ernie |
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Larry Bressington
From: Nebraska
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Posted 29 Oct 2008 4:27 pm
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How about cutting cheese? ![Laughing](images/smiles/icon_lol.gif) _________________ A.K.A Chappy. |
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Bill Hatcher
From: Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2008 6:35 pm Re: Best Way To Rip
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Ernest Cawby wrote: |
I will put the blade back on my band saw.
ernie |
Ernie.
Before putting the blade back on the band saw, do a good tune up on it. Wipe down the rubber tires and make sure there is no residue of any kind on them and that they are pliable and have a good crown to them. Check the blade guides and adjust side and back stops. Don't fire up the saw with the covers off. Bump start it to make sure the blade is running correctly. Best to you and safe machine use.
NO ALCOHOL, NO MEDICATIONS AND NO MACHINERY USE WHEN TIRED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Andy Jones
From: Mississippi
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Posted 29 Oct 2008 6:52 pm
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Try this old plumber's trick.Get a 18"-24" piece of nylon string and tie a loop in each end.Clamp the pipe in a vice or put your foot on it if you don't have a vice.Start sawing slowly with the string and in a few seconds the friction will cut through the pipe cleanly.There's no way to hurt yourself doing this.
Andy |
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James Jacoby
From: Ohio, USA
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Posted 24 Dec 2008 12:02 am Listen to John!
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I was a carpenter for forty years, and John Billings is right on about using a good miter box.( not a power miter box)for cutting PVC pipe! A table saw, and perhaps, a power planer, are two of the most dangerous power tools you can use. Power tools are wonderful, but they can hurt you bad in a split second, when you least expect it! I never tried the tubing cutter, but it sounds like it would work well and be safer as well. For plastic pipe, too large for a miter box, a Sawzall works pretty well. Also, remember to use eye protection when using power tools. ---------Jake Jacoby------- |
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Ernest Cawby
From: Lake City, Florida, USA, R.I.P.
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Posted 24 Dec 2008 7:34 am Hi
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This is not about cross cuts but cutting from end to end, taking off 3/4 off the side to use it to hold things to the leg of the guitar,
ernie |
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Ray Minich
From: Bradford, Pa. Frozen Tundra
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Posted 24 Dec 2008 10:44 am
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Throw some old blades in a jointer and grind away? |
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Chip Fossa
From: Monson, MA, USA (deceased)
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Posted 24 Dec 2008 4:19 pm
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Cut PVC with a hacksaw. Take it from me, a plumber by trade. Let the SAW do all the work. Put pressure only on the forward stroke, relax on the backstroke. A slightly worn hacksaw blade works better than a brand new one. Don't force the saw. You'd be surprised how easily cutting can be if you let the saw do all the work.
The stuff cuts fairly easy by hand. By hand is quicker in some ways then lugging the pipe to some table saw or dragging out an extension cord and sawzall. I even use a hacksaw on 3" PVC.
Other plumbers I know, if they do use an electric cutting device for PVC (or ABS) is what we refer to as a "chop saw". It's a pull-down device used in carpentry, too, for mitering; but for cutting pipe, a hard compostion-type of blade is used. It has no teeth, but a raspy edge, and goes thru plastic like butter. Auto body/mechanic guys use hand held versions to cut sheet metal and exhaust piping.
Oh yeah, you definitely have to keep the pipe immobile, somehow. In a house situation, the stair riser is one place; and a doorway, with the door open, of course. Put the pipe right on the floor and the cut-mark into the door opening; push against the wall, or stud if new construction. Rotate the pipe as you get close to the floor. You don't have to cut all the way through, either. It can be snapped off.
It's not an "exacto" cut, but I can come pretty close. Been doing it for 40+ years.
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