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Scott Howard


From:
Georgetown, TN, USA
Post  Posted 15 Dec 2008 3:24 pm    
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I am working on refinishing a wood guitar with inlay. By the time I got some of the bad spots out it has messed up a section of the inlay.

What is the best way to remove the old inlay ?
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 15 Dec 2008 4:11 pm     Inlay
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The best way is to route it out and start over with new inlay, I am assumeing it is wood inlay. Dont try that with M.O.P. or abalone. Martin.
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Bent Romnes


From:
London,Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 15 Dec 2008 6:40 pm    
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Talkin about inlay....Martin, is there a router bit one can buy that has the pilot bearing with the correct depth? We're talking about 1/16th I presume.
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Pat Comeau


From:
New Brunswick, Canada
Post  Posted 15 Dec 2008 10:45 pm    
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Scott! i have a trick but it's kinda difficult to do,

I used to work in hardwood floors back in the ealry 80's and we had to make our own scrapper for the corners and places where the floor edger sander couldn't reach and that's how i did my inlay for my custom steel i build last spring, being that the inlay are mostly 1/16 to 1/32 of an inch i use a flat screwdriver and shaped it to the same width as the inlay and then sharped it like a knife and then turned or bend the tip of the screwdriver around 30 degrees to make a scrapper and then used a straight peice of wood or anything that is straight and clamped it on the wood peice that the inlay is going on for a guide and then scrapp just the depth you need cause inlay can't be sanded to much, even if the inlay is a little to much in or out ...it will get even with a couple of coats of lacquer.

that's the tricky part=turned or bend the tip of the screwdriver around 30 degrees

hope this help Smile
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John Fabian


From:
Mesquite, Texas USA * R.I.P.
Post  Posted 16 Dec 2008 2:49 am    
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Use a router table with a good fence to remove the typical straight inlays found on steels. Pilot bearings are not necessary. Alternatively, you can use a trim router or a dremel tool. You would still need to use the fence attachments to keep the router straight. A router bit or end mill of 1/8" or greater can be used. Try to match the width of the bit to the desired inlay channel or you can make multiple passes and move the fence.
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Martin Weenick


From:
Lecanto, FL, USA
Post  Posted 16 Dec 2008 3:44 am     Inlay
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John F. is right on the mark here. Most wood inlay especially on old sho-buds is 3/8 inches wide and .030 thick. A 3/8 straight cut bit and a router table is the way to go. I have also done aprons on my milling machine also with a straight bit. The concave curve on the sho-bud necks can be done with a special base for a Dremel tool and a slot cutter. I will try to get a picture of the base I built up sometime today. Martin.
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Scott Howard


From:
Georgetown, TN, USA
Post  Posted 16 Dec 2008 4:00 am    
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Thanks guys

I was hoping for something I could do here. Like a chemical or thinner that would make the glue turn loose .

I have always worked with cars and metal. I will see what I can come up with. I have a friend who makes house cabinets and see if he can do it.

I ordered 2 pieces of inlay that I think will match this. I was going to use one in the neck I was going to build and ordered a extra. If it matches and I don't mess anything up I still have enough.
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 16 Dec 2008 8:14 am    
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I needed to install some inlay in a couple of necks for an Emmons p/p.
On something that is straight, it's no problem but when the material is curved, it gets quite tricky.
I found what I needed on www.stewmac.com
They have some attachments for a Dremel and this did the trick.
This is the guitar:


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Scott Howard


From:
Georgetown, TN, USA
Post  Posted 18 Dec 2008 5:46 pm    
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I got the inay and it matches so I am going to try and just replace the one strip. Thanks to all who replied.
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Scott Howard


From:
Georgetown, TN, USA
Post  Posted 20 Dec 2008 12:19 pm    
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I got it changed and have started clearing the body.

I went to WalMart and bought a eye dropper. I put a little acetone on the inlay and kept letting it run under the bad spot. It wasn't that bad a job. It turned loose pretty easy . I then used a broach for making square 3/8 holes in metal as a router and it cleaned the grove out really nice.

Just used what I had but I got the job done. I am looking to get a few wood tools and maybe be set up to do it easier next time. Hoping to post pictures in the Thopmpson thread later today.
Thanks
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