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Topic: PSG "oils"-Teflon or silicone base ?? |
Oldon Burgdorf
From:
Hohenwald,TN, USA (deceased)
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Posted 23 Aug 2008 8:31 am |
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I've heard recomendations for both and was wondering which one y'all recommend for lubricating the moving parts and why. Thanks.
Ol' Don
_________________
Hohenwald, TN
Mullen G2, Peavey Nashville 112 & 1000 and a few gadgets. Only a fellow musician would understand the need for more goodies. |
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Bo Borland
From:
South Jersey -
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Posted 23 Aug 2008 9:49 am
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| TRI FLOW little black bottle of teflon based lube from the local hardware store.. |
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Greg Cutshaw
From:
Corry, PA, USA
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Posted 23 Aug 2008 11:15 am
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Here's a few blurbs about Tri-Flow:
Steel Guitar Lube
Greg |
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Richard Damron
From:
Gallatin, Tennessee, USA (deceased)
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Posted 23 Aug 2008 1:05 pm
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....
Last edited by Richard Damron on 24 Aug 2008 10:53 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Danny Sherbon
From:
San Angelo, TX
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Posted 23 Aug 2008 1:16 pm 3000 mile oil change?
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Greg your post on the forum on oiling the steel is really good.
I play GFI steels and on their website they discuss lubrication on the GFI steels
This is what is on their website:- Moving parts are designed to need no lubrication or have been sufficiently lubricated at the factory to last the lifetime of the guitar.
Is that a realistic expectation from a piece of gear with moving parts?
I think Ford, GM, Chrysler, Toyota and even John Deere should pay attention to the GFI steel company.
Both of my GFI's play well, just wondering if at some point I should be maybe lub it. |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 23 Aug 2008 2:33 pm
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Teflon! Yes!
I've been using it for at least 20 years.
It's nice and slick and doesn't attract dust and dirt.
You can get it in spray form or in squeeze bottles.
If you can't find it at your local hardware store, try a bicycle shop. Most of the bicycle guys use teflon-based lubes on their cycles.
Lee, from South Texas |
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Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
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Posted 23 Aug 2008 2:40 pm
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+Double Post Deleted+
Last edited by Lee Baucum on 24 Aug 2008 11:57 am; edited 1 time in total |
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David Doggett
From:
Bawl'mer, MD (formerly of MS, Nawluns, Gnashville, Knocksville, Lost Angeles, Bahsten. and Philly)
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Posted 24 Aug 2008 11:51 am Re: 3000 mile oil change?
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| Danny Sherbon wrote: |
I play GFI steels and on their website they discuss lubrication on the GFI steels
This is what is on their website:- Moving parts are designed to need no lubrication or have been sufficiently lubricated at the factory to last the lifetime of the guitar.
Is that a realistic expectation from a piece of gear with moving parts?
I think Ford, GM, Chrysler, Toyota and even John Deere should pay attention to the GFI steel company. |
The parts on a pedal steel move very little and relatively slowly. Changer fingers, crosshafts, pedals, etc. rotate back and forth less than a quarter turn. They have nothing in common with high speed rotating machinery in cars. It's conceivable they would operate fine indefinitely with no lubrication. A light lube, especially something non-greasy such as teflon, could conceivably last 20 or 30 years. Problems seem more likely to come from overlubing with heavy lubes that will attract dirt and gum up. |
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Johnne Lee Ables
From:
Minnesota, USA
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Posted 24 Aug 2008 12:16 pm Re: 3000 mile oil change?
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| David Doggett wrote: |
The parts on a pedal steel move very little and relatively slowly. They have nothing in common with high speed rotating machinery in cars. A light lube, especially something non-greasy such as teflon, could conceivably last 20 or 30 years. Problems seem more likely to come from overlubing with heavy lubes that will attract dirt and gum up. |
Thanks, Dave!
Excellent point!
You just saved me a lot of work, I imagine! (If I ever manage to get a PSG!) ; -]
Thanks again,
Johnne Lee
_________________
Justice S10-Pro 5x4 C6
Roland Cube 80GX
Wonderful Wife
"In the course of a long life a wise man will be prepared to abandon his baggage several times." |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 25 Aug 2008 5:37 am
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I've ben using non-oil products like Tri Flow..,lately Pedro's "Extra Dry", the same animal at a lower price...for a long time. Oils, as mentioned, often do more harm than good by breaking down, attracting dirt and gumming up the works. An evaporative "dry lube" such as the Teflon-based products can be used sparingly...and on a steel, once a YEAR is probably more than you need to do.
Edited to add:
Regarding David's comment:
| Quote: |
I play GFI steels and on their website they discuss lubrication on the GFI steels
This is what is on their website:- Moving parts are designed to need no lubrication or have been sufficiently lubricated at the factory to last the lifetime of the guitar. |
...that's a great point many miss. I play a bunch of different B-bender guitars along with a GFI Ultra and Fender steels, and the B-Benders only need lube at a few points; the oilite bearings used in the design never need additional lubrication, which WILL gum up the works. I've seen far more problems created by "oiling" parts" than by "underlubricating". Too many players just assume if it moves, it needs oil. That's incorrect and WILL cause problems.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Tom Buur
From:
Denmark
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Posted 1 Sep 2008 11:23 am
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| Overseas steel player may get Tri Flow from eBay. Seeing how many here preferred this lube, I ordered some. Looks like they use it for Bonsai tools too. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 3 Sep 2008 4:52 am
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One last quick note - silicones are dirt magnets. I would never put a silicone lube within 10 feet of a guitar; in the case of the lubricants, they stay in an oil form, which is a dirt magnet itself...adding silicone increases the problem.
I've been in the coatings business for decades, and we avoid ALL silicones except dark colors for window glazing (glass-to-metal) where dirt isn't as easily seen. Light colors turn brown/black in months, and I turned down a $400k high-rise recoating project as it required recoating with the original material, a silicone - based elastomeric copolymer - which looked filthy after 3 years. The company that took the job is now in a warranty dispute 8 month after completion, because...yup...it looks dirty as heck.
Lesson - stay with dry lubricants, and use them sparingly.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Nic du Toit
From:
Milnerton, Cape, South Africa
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Posted 3 Sep 2008 11:56 am
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Which one is the right one?
The "red label" bottle or he "black label" bottle?
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 3 Sep 2008 12:50 pm
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I've never seen the red label. Might just be they updated the packaging, or some location requires different information on the label. It's probably the same stuff.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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