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Author Topic:  pedal action
Jade Mandrake

 

From:
Austin, Texas
Post  Posted 19 Aug 2008 5:12 pm    
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hi,

i'm wondering if anybody out there can offer advice on improving the action of my pedals. they are pretty stiff and i would love to make them easier to press down. is this possible?

thanks
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Austin Tripp

 

From:
Nashville TN
Post  Posted 19 Aug 2008 5:19 pm    
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Jade, What kind of steel do you have? The tension is probaly coming from the return springs under the pickups at the changer side, you could loosen them up, but be careful. If it is an Emmons p/p, the pedals will "probaly" always be stiff
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Last edited by Austin Tripp on 19 Aug 2008 7:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jade Mandrake

 

From:
Austin, Texas
Post  Posted 19 Aug 2008 7:41 pm    
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thank you for your reply Smile
i have a bmi s-10. its an all pull with 3 pedals, four levers.

can you tell me more about possibly adjusting it?
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Austin Tripp

 

From:
Nashville TN
Post  Posted 19 Aug 2008 7:56 pm    
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The 1st thing I would try is some lubrication on the various pivot points, including the changer fingers.
If that dosen't do the trick.If you suspect lack of lubrication in the changer and other moving parts is the problem, check the stiffness the next time you change strings. If things are still stiff with no strings, then you need to dissassemble, clean and lubricate.
Compare the leverage points at the changer. The farther the wire hook is placed from the changer axle, the easier (yet longer) the pedal/lever throw will be. I prefer a longer easier throw compared to a stiffer short excursion. I may be 17 years old,, but i know a pedal steel guitar!! Very Happy
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 20 Aug 2008 4:31 am    
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Jade, most guitars will have easier pedal action after a thorough lubrication. My guitar played a LOT easier after using Tri-Flo on it, than when it was new from the factory!


Steel Guitar Lubrication


Greg
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Jade Mandrake

 

From:
Austin, Texas
Post  Posted 20 Aug 2008 5:29 am    
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Thank you Austin for taking the time to describe this process...I am going to take a stab at it tonight!
Greg, thank you as well (your pictures are really helpful Smile I feel like I might just be able to do this!
Jade
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Ben Hoare


From:
NSW Australia
Post  Posted 20 Aug 2008 5:53 am    
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Greg Cutshaw wrote:
Jade, most guitars will have easier pedal action after a thorough lubrication. My guitar played a LOT easier after using Tri-Flo on it, than when it was new from the factory!


Steel Guitar Lubrication


Greg

Gregs on the money his lubrication tips helped me out a while back
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C Dixon

 

From:
Duluth, GA USA
Post  Posted 20 Aug 2008 6:10 am    
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If lubricating it does not ease the pedal action, the following are some things you may wish to know and study:

Most strings exert + or - 30lbs of tension when tuned to pitch. And this is accumalitive. Since most pedals and knee levers have at least 2 pulls, this equates to at least 60 lbs. That is a LOT of tension.

Where the pedal rod attaches to the pedal can change this, by substituting travel distance for an easier pull. So check to see IF the manufacturer provided a different hole for the "ball" location for the ball joint connector on the pedals.

IF so: The closer to the pivot that ball is, the easier the action, but the longer the travel.

Which hole the pull rod goes thru at the changer works just the opposite: The closer to the changer axle, the harder the pull, but the shorter the travel.

Where the pull rod attaches to the bellcrank works just the opposite: The closer to the axle the easier the pull, but the greater the travel.

These three physical characteristics of MOST modern PSG's (other than Multi-Kords, Electra Harps and cable pulling systems), need to be understood if a person wants an easier OR stiffer action. Aleays remember however, the trade off concerning travel.

CAUTION: Changing pullrod hole locations is NOT recommended UNLESS you undertsand this AND the problem of "timing" of pulls on the same pedal and/or knee lever.

So I agree, first check out the lubrication. Then and ONLY then would I recommend tackling pullrods changes. And then and only then, after you have studied the above thorougly. And MOST importantly, make a note of what you have, BEFORE you make ANY changes. This way, you can always go back to what you had. I can NOT stress enough the importance of this.

Note: if your pedals do provide more than one hole for the connector ball, that of course is no problem to change.

Good luck, and may Jesus guide you in this endeavor dear person,

c.

Extremely IMPORTANT. If your PSG does not use bellcranks and crossrods, like MOST PSG's use today, then do NOT mess with that undercarriage, UNLESS you are thoroughly familiar with how these systems operate.

Since BMI was a successor to the ZB which was began by Zane Beck, your guitar might not have bellcranks and crossrods.

This is also true of Klines. They use the ZB type of pulling system more or less, also.

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David Doggett


From:
Bawl'mer, MD (formerly of MS, Nawluns, Gnashville, Knocksville, Lost Angeles, Bahsten. and Philly)
Post  Posted 20 Aug 2008 8:36 am    
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There is one adjustment location Carl forgot to mention. Some pedal steels have multiple holes or slots where the pedal rod hooks onto the crosshaft arm. Further from the crossshaft will be a longer and easier pedal action. For guitars that have this adjustment, it is usually an easy adjustment, and easily reversible if the change is unsatisfactory.
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Bobby Boggs

 

From:
Upstate SC.
Post  Posted 20 Aug 2008 8:49 am    
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Thank you Carl for your very detailed explanation.Newbies, be careful whenasking advice here. Sometimes, folks who mean well can put you on the wrong road home. Very Happy It's one thing to give an opinion. But I never give advice unless I know for sure what I'm talking about. This is not a slam against Austin. Just a heads up to maybe get several opinions before you start turning wrenches.

Quote:
The tension is probaly coming from the return springs under the pickups at the changer side.


The lower return springs do not effect the stiffness of strings being raised. They effect the stiffness of strings that are lowered. They do however need to be tight enough to hold the lower member against the block when as string is raised. And tight enought to pull a string back to pitch when lowered. Hope this helps........bb
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Jade Mandrake

 

From:
Austin, Texas
Post  Posted 20 Aug 2008 12:04 pm    
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Thank you all for your care and advice. What would I do without this forum? What a great group of people...! All is noted. I will definitely try lubricating first, before changing things around . Winking

Again, I appreciate all the help
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