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Post new topic REMOVAL OF HIDDEN PU'S ON A 1938 NATIONAL NEW YORKER
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Author Topic:  REMOVAL OF HIDDEN PU'S ON A 1938 NATIONAL NEW YORKER
Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2008 3:52 pm    
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I'm considering having my magnets on my pickups revitalized by Rick A., and one of the laps is a 1938 New Yorker, the bridge pu will be easy to remove but I am not so certain on the hidden ones under the finger board. Has anyone removed thoses pu's before? And do you have pics of the process?
thanks
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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 28 May 2008 4:14 pm    
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Hi Phill,

I have not had any reason to remove the hidden pickups, but here are some pics of the pickups in one of my 1937 New Yorkers:





It seems there were two kinds of fretboards on these New Yorkers - some have a separation at the 12th fret, which makes removal of the fretboard and access to the pickups easy, while others have no such separation, meaning that the entire fretboard would have to be removed.

Have you got a photo of your New Yorker? I love these old lap steels! Smile

Fred
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Rick Aiello


From:
Berryville, VA USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2008 4:43 pm    
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Someone emailed me awhile back about fabricating some magnets ... for a National that had all three pickups ... but no magnets.

I searched for photos (I don't have any myself) ... and found these (probably from Fred K.) ... and sent them to the guy.

Never heard back from him ... ???

But these show the "barrel" magnets well ... simply unbolt them from their retaining bar ...



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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2008 4:56 pm    
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Mine has a seperation just to the left of the bridge pickup I'll have to check if it has one at the 12th fret too.
When I get home from work I'll post a picture of mine it was a one owner she had bought it new in 1938. I bought if from her son. It has the cheaper case with the red lining. Kind of a molded light tan in color.
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 2:48 am    
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Fred Rick how did you upload the pictures? the add picture botton is not on the post reply option now. thanks
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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 2:58 am    
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Hi Phill,

It seems to be something wrong with the SGF picture hosting at the moment (all avatars are gone and uploaded pics too), use a photo hosting site like www.photobucket.com or www.flickr.com, upload your picture there, copy the URL and paste it in your post here surrounded by [IMG] and [/IMG].

Cheers,

Fred
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Brad Bechtel


From:
San Francisco, CA
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 7:48 am    
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Sticky: Hard Drive Crashed - Pictures Gone:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=134588
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 11:13 am    
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HER SHE IS
http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/aa122/GuitarPlayer1953/?action=tageditmany[img]
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 11:17 am    
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TRY THIS AGAIN HERE SHE IS!


Fred I did not see any seperation at the 12th fret. would it be wise to pull the whole board off?
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John Bushouse

 

Post  Posted 29 May 2008 12:07 pm    
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My 1936 separates at the 12th fret; it's just not obvious until all the screws are out on the white part.
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 2:10 pm    
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I'll remove all the screws and see if there is a seperation.
thanks
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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 6:27 pm    
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Beautiful guitar Phill! Identical to my 1937 ones but in even better cosmetic condition.

Here you can see the difference between one with the separation and one without:





It looks like your one hasn't got a separation at the 12th fret. Please keep us up to date with how you get on.

Cheers,

Fred
_________________
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 9:28 pm    
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Fred would you suggest cutting the fret board right at the location between the neck and the body? I'm not looking forward to removing the whole board and taking the chance of breaking it or really mucking it up.
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 31 May 2008 1:48 am    
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Here is what she looks like inside. I took one of those small hack sawa and cut the finger board right at the line below the 12th fret just like yours Fred. I then sliped a knife blade under the plastic and poped it off. Finding underneth written on the board the build date of 96-37. Now does this mean it is the 96th lap made in 37 or is it Sept 6th 1937? I don't know, if any one knows the code let me know. thanks. When I poped it open the silver foil was still in place telling me I'm the first one to open it since it was built. so here are the pictures Fred.


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Fred Kinbom


From:
Berlin, Germany, via Stockholm, Sweden.
Post  Posted 31 May 2008 4:04 am    
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Hi Phill,

I am not sure what the scribbles mean, but it is most likely a 1937 lap steel, so that part would make sense. The one I opened up had its serial number scribbled on the back of the board. National were running the same serial number sequence on all their instruments at this time (Tricones, Duolians, New Yorkers...) and most of the 3-pickup New Yorkers seem to have Bxxx and Cxxx numbers.

Fred
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 31 May 2008 9:17 am    
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Thank's Fred for your wisdom with these laps. I had sent you a email asking on your chime setting do you get the effect on all strings at all frets or is it just on the 4-6 strings on the upper neck location? When I get these magnets sent off and back from Rick A, I'll let everyone what the difference is in output after remagnetizing the magnets. I'll take a ohm reading first and afterwards.
thanks all and I hope that this thread has help others too...
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Rick Aiello


From:
Berryville, VA USA
Post  Posted 31 May 2008 3:25 pm    
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Quote:
I'll take a ohm reading first and afterwards.


Remagin' the magnets will have no effect on the DC resistance of the units ...

DC resistance is a "coil thing" ...

It's basically a function of the number of turns ... the diameter of the magnet wire used ... and the size of the bobbin(s) ...
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 31 May 2008 3:49 pm    
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thanks Rick, for some reason I had thought that the magnets affected the ouput.
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Rick Aiello


From:
Berryville, VA USA
Post  Posted 1 Jun 2008 4:27 am    
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Quote:
thanks Rick, for some reason I had thought that the magnets affected the ouput.


An increase in the strength of the magnet(s) will increase the output voltage of the unit ...
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 2 Jun 2008 2:10 am     FRED!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Fred do you still have your New Yorker opened up?

The reason I ask is this I pulled the magnets out of my New Yorker marking the location of each magnet yet not marking the orientation of the magnets in relation which pole of the magnet faced towards the flange that they bolt onto.

If you could would you take a compass and check each magnet to see what the pole orientation is?
Thanks FRED
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Steve Hamill

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2008 7:40 pm     3 pu New Yawker
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I found a primo 37 today in a local shop. It has the original case and amphenol cord. The owner was asking for 1K but I could get it for 8. It sounded great and everything worked , although a little clean-up is needed. Scratchy pots etc.

It was solid feeling little steel.

Good deal?
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2008 8:18 pm    
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That depends Steve, by that I mean what's it worth to you? These sold for over $100 in the 30's, at $800 that would be 8x it's original price.
question is it a 6,7, or 8 string?
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Steve Hamill

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2008 8:40 pm     Nat'l
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It was a 6 string.
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Phill Martin


From:
Whitewater Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 19 Jun 2008 8:58 pm    
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I gave 700 for mine and it was a one owner, I still sent the magnets to Rick
A. to rejuice, got them back and broke a wire on one of the pickups, ended up sending the whole thing to Rick to fix and Hot Rod.

Rick stated that when he rejuiced Fred's it had a 40 persent more output.

Is it the one knob and a selector or is it the two knob NNY?

All in all it's a personal choice on the price of what one is willing to pay at least you can see it and play it before buying. I got mine off Ebay and luckly was dealing with a honest person when I asked if all the tone settings worked they answered yes, which was true.

If you read some of Fred's posts he bought one that the was suppost to be fully working and the tone selector was froze up on it.
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Rick Aiello


From:
Berryville, VA USA
Post  Posted 20 Jun 2008 4:28 am    
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Phill, your steel arrived yesterday ... I'll try and get it done this weekend.

Quote:
Rick stated that when he rejuiced Fred's it had a 40 persent more output.


Just to keep the record straight ... I didn't say that.

I believe Fred used that figure to describe the differences between the two Nationals he owns (prior to my work).

We'll see what Fred says in a few days ... I did more than just a remag ... Laughing

PS: Freds had " 96-30 " written under the fretboard ...

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