| Visit Our Catalog at SteelGuitarShopper.com |

Post new topic cleaning amp jacks with gun brush
Reply to topic
Author Topic:  cleaning amp jacks with gun brush
John McGuire

 

From:
Swansea,Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2008 1:14 pm    
Reply with quote

Just wanted to pass on a little tip, had a dirty input jack that was causing the amp to act up (Session 500). Used a brass 410 shotgun brush put in in gently and 2 turns and the problem was solved. For 2:00 I now keep it in my seat. can't pull the chassis on a gig to clean, it got me by. I also pulled the chassis after the fact and cleaned the pots and all the jacks and used the brush then as well clean as a whistle.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Darvin Willhoite


From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2008 3:01 pm    
Reply with quote

That brush is pretty tight isn't it, .410 dia. into a .250 hole. Also what happens if some of the wires fall onto the circuit board? There could be some shorting. I use a piece of 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper rolled up with the grit out, and work it around in the jack.
_________________
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
John McGuire

 

From:
Swansea,Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 28 May 2008 5:55 pm    
Reply with quote

Actually, the brush was pretty limber not real stiff and fit snug but not too tight. 22 would be real close. When I took the amp apart the jacks were on the back side of the circut board. Did not see any loose bristles but I used a can of compressed air to blow everything off. My no2 imput jack was black when I started and looked chrome plated when I was finished.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 2:41 am    
Reply with quote

Something that "rough" could cause damage to the jack and or the metal coating on the jack. As a former amp tech, I wouldn't recommend something like this.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Ken Fox


From:
Nashville GA USA
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 4:41 am    
Reply with quote

I use Q-tips and denatured alcohol. If they will not clean up with that them I replace the jacks. Seldom does it not work!

If it is corroded to the pint of needing sandpaper, etc it is time for a new jack.
View user's profile Send private message
Lee Baucum


From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 6:31 pm    
Reply with quote

Quote:
it is time for a new jack


or a new ken. Razz
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Darvin Willhoite


From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
Post  Posted 29 May 2008 7:05 pm    
Reply with quote

I clean most of mine about every six months, that would be a lot of jack changin'. Sad
_________________
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 30 May 2008 2:35 am    
Reply with quote

If you are in the amp repair/restoration business as Ken is, replacement is a better option. You don't want the customer coming back to you because a problem returned or showed up because you should have replaced a component when the "cleaning" didn't fix it or last.

When I was doing amp repair I went through a lot of 1/4" Switchcraft jacks. I was working in Nashville at the time (at Little Roy Wiggins music store which was also the Ampeg factory repair center for Nashville) and I couldn't afford to have things I fixed develop troubles on the road if I could help it.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 30 May 2008 5:45 am    
Reply with quote

If you can't clean a jack with electrical contact solvent you remove it before using anything even slightly abrasive - you do not want small metal particles flying around other electronics or anything mechanical. And if you have to get very aggressive at all - as stated earlier, replace it. If it's at the point you have to use sandpaper or a gun brush to get the crud off, spend $2.00 on a new jack, because once you abrade it you'll need to re-brush/sand it regularly to keep it from building up corrosion and/or use materials that improve contact and protect the metal on a very regular basis.

The only time vintage guitar/amp techs clean old jacks very aggressively is on vintage collector's items where replacement will devalue the item (and in some cases, we'll encase them while cleaning so even the solder joint is not disturbed). Steels and most steel amps don't have that kind of collectable value, so it's best to replace them.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Darvin Willhoite


From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
Post  Posted 30 May 2008 6:56 am    
Reply with quote

The 600 grit sand paper does very little abrading, mostly just polishing. I do not get aggressive, just a couple of insertions and a twist or two does the job. This has worked for me for lots of years, so I guess I'll stick with it. I don't have any problems with the amps in my studio, the temperature and humidity is controlled, but at the church where I play I have to clean the jacks quite often. Neither the temperature or humidity is controlled. We use Aviom personal mixers that have TRS, circuit board mounted jacks, and these seem to be the worst culprits. We have several units and I would be changing jacks in one of them every few weeks if cleaning didn't work. I haven't had to change one in the 4 years we've used this system.
_________________
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Steve Norman


From:
Seattle Washington, USA
Post  Posted 30 May 2008 8:37 am    
Reply with quote

Gun cleaning brushes are designed to not scratch tho right? arent they brass or something? I know you dont want to abrade the bore of a gun..
_________________
GFI D10, Fender Steel King, Hilton Vpedal,BoBro, National D dobro, Marrs RGS
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
John McGuire

 

From:
Swansea,Illinois, USA
Post  Posted 30 May 2008 9:16 am    
Reply with quote

Yes, this was a pretty soft brass brush. Also this had to be done at a gig as I said in my original post. After the fact I did pull the chassis and clean all the imputs with contact cleaner but, I carefully used the brush as well. All I was saying is it worked good for me in a pinch.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Jim Sliff


From:
Lawndale California, USA
Post  Posted 4 Jun 2008 7:00 pm    
Reply with quote

Quote:
but at the church where I play I have to clean the jacks quite often. Neither the temperature or humidity is controlled.


And if you have to consequently clean them that much there are two issues:

1) The regular cleaning, even the so-called polishing, is removing corrosion, which is eating into the metal. The jacks need replacing.

2) If it's that much of an issue you're not taking are of the jacks with a protective material. Check out the Caig products, or LPS, or several others - you can find quality materials that will leave thin protective layer on the metal part of the jack, essentially eliminating the whole problem.

Simply, there is no way you can "clean" jacks...or should have to...that much unless they are being damaged either by the environment OR the cleaning process. The "solutions" given, though, are part of the problem.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
David Spangler

 

From:
Kerrville, TX USA
Post  Posted 26 Jun 2008 4:32 pm     Gun brush for jacks
Reply with quote

I like to use .250 nylon brushes along with contact cleaner.
View user's profile Send private message
Harry Dietrich


From:
Robesonia, Pennsylvania, USA, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 26 Jun 2008 7:44 pm    
Reply with quote

They make a tool for cleaning jacks. Male and female ends.



Harry Muttering
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Jump to:  
Please review our Forum Rules and Policies
Our Online Catalog
Strings, CDs, instruction, and steel guitar accessories
www.SteelGuitarShopper.com

The Steel Guitar Forum
148 S. Cloverdale Blvd.
Cloverdale, CA 95425 USA

Click Here to Send a Donation

Email SteelGuitarForum@gmail.com for technical support.


BIAB Styles
Ray Price Shuffles for Band-in-a-Box
by Jim Baron