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Topic: Refinishing |
Darryl Hattenhauer
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 27 Jun 2008 4:16 pm |
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When refinishing a steel (or regular guitar) is there any way to make it less obvious so the guitar doesn't scream "REFIN!" it just whispers "refin"?
_________________
Steel crazy after all these years.
$100 reward for info leading to the purchase of a fender D8 white, yellow, or butterscotch. |
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Kevin Hatton
From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
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Posted 27 Jun 2008 6:49 pm
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Yes. In short, you have to know what you are doing. If you don't, I wouldn't attempt it. Its a lengthy process and very detailed to do correctly. Once damage is done it could be extremely difficult if not impossible to reverse. A bad refinish (I've seen a few) will diminish the resale value of a steel immensely.
Last edited by Kevin Hatton on 27 Jun 2008 7:22 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Darryl Hattenhauer
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 27 Jun 2008 7:18 pm
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Kevin,
I wouldn't attempt it myself. But it's good to know that something can be done so that the result isn't reminiscent of an aged Hollywood star with an excessive facelift and paint job. |
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Kevin Hatton
From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
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Posted 27 Jun 2008 7:25 pm
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| Its not any one thing. Its the entire process from removing the old finish, surface preparation, proper materials and technique. Its much harder than putting on a new finish. I've seen cases with experts where the whole refinish had to be stripped down and re done 3/4 of the way through the process. |
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Darryl Hattenhauer
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 27 Jun 2008 7:44 pm
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| Dang. That sounds awfully difficult. |
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Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
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Posted 28 Jun 2008 3:19 am
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Darryl,
Not an easy task, not a pretty sight when done wrong. If you are serious about it, have someone like Ricky D, or someone with guitar finishing credentials(prefer PSG experience)do it. It will be worth the extra money to get it done right. If Ricky can't or will not do it, have him recommend someone.
Bill
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!! |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 28 Jun 2008 6:49 am
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I haven't used it when refinishing a pedal steel but when I refinish a blonde Fender STringmaster, I use a "tinted clearcoat" to get an aged appearance to the stark blonde color.
Example:
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Darryl Hattenhauer
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 28 Jun 2008 8:05 am
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Bill,
Ricky is definitely who I would want to send it to.
Erv,
I've been drooling over that four-neck Fender of yours for years. To me, those Fenders get THE non-pedal sound. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 28 Jun 2008 12:29 pm
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Contrary to popular opinion, refinishing guitars nowadays is actually MUCH easier to do with professional results than in the past.
I've been in the paint business 35+ years, know how to use conventional spray equipment - but have put it away forever. A company called Guitar Reranch has developed a line of aerosols with special spray tips totally unlike any other aerosol; the fine finish you can get from them is exquisite. They make the stuff in all the Fender and Gibson (and other) custom colors, sunburst materials, aging toners and complete preparation materials. Their instructions are the best I have ever read.
I finish all instruments with their products now. I can buy just what I need for one or two guitars and not have dangerous lacquer waste laying around.
Refinishing is EXTREMELY expensive.
It is also a REALLY bad idea on a vintage instrument; a vintage guitar with wear, even a LOT of wear, is more valuable than a refinished one. It is one of the quirks of guitar collecting. Most refinishing is done to 1) damaged instruments, or 2) instruments built from parts.
Instruments with worn or checked finished are NEVER refinished. Now, this "guideline" is primarily in the 6-sring world, but it is carrying over into the steel world. Refinishing Fender cable guitars drops the value; Refinishing a Bigsby would cause Bobbe to hunt you down and they'd never find the body... 
I have seen, though, many players take a guitar and with a little elbow grease and NO previous experience...just following Reranch's advice and calling them if you have questions...and get absolutely stunning results.
www.reranch.com
PS - the usual safety caveat; if you are working with oil-based or lacquer paints, solvents, etc...and ALL aerosols are flammable...NEVER do it in a closed garage or anyplace else without ventilation, and NEVER in close proximity to gas appliances. A pilot light can set off aerosol fumes quickly with a resulting explosion; and I actually heard about one guy who taped his bathroom shut to avoid dust and started painting, displacing all the oxygen in the room. Luckily, when he passed out (which was inevitable) he fell against the door and someone heard him and got him out ( and called the paramedics) or he would have been dead.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Darryl Hattenhauer
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 28 Jun 2008 1:06 pm
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| Quote: |
| It is also a REALLY bad idea on a vintage instrument; a vintage guitar with wear, even a LOT of wear, is more valuable than a refinished one. |
That's important to know. A guy here in Phoenix paid a lot of money to refinish a Gretsch (6120?) and then found out he had reduced the resale value by about 40%. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 28 Jun 2008 10:14 pm
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That's the usual mistake. Someone "out of the loop" finds grandpa's '56 Strat with checked lacquer, takes it to a *furniture* shop, has it refinished, then takes it to a guitar store for an appraisal...and finds what WAS a $35,000 guitar is worth $12,000.
Same with amps. Recovering tweeds is a mixed bag - there's a fine line between "wear" and "damage". Wear you NEVER touch - "damage", possibly. But it depends on the amp. A narrow panel tweed Deluxe recover will not have NEAR the affect of price that a tweed Bandmaster one would.
It's advisable to not even touch a solder joint on a vintage instrument or amp unless you are intimately familiar with the market and vintage values.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Darryl Hattenhauer
From:
Phoenix, Arizona, USA
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Posted 28 Jun 2008 11:57 pm
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| Quote: |
| Wear you NEVER touch - "damage", possibly. |
A good way to put it in a nutshell. |
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