Pro tune up or just go for it?

Ricky Newman · From: Ontario, Canada

Ahoj,

So I have a bunch of little things wrong with my MSA
D-10 Classic: a couple of buzzy strings, dirty
changer fingers, too much or too little travel on a
few pedals, at least one too few knee levers, and a
loose lead on my back neck's pickup.

I'm not the kind of guy to turn over mechanical work
to a pro, but as the months go by I'm just not
working up the nerve to take apart the undercarriage
to solder in that C6th pickup lead.

I live about an hour away from one of the best steel
techs (and players, as it happens) in the world. Only
problem is that, for good reason, he don't come
cheap.

I'm wondering how you folks feel about balancing the
importance of learning the ins and out of a PSG
against the pleasure of having someone set one up for
you properly.

I'm not talking about changing the strings here, but
the kind of drilling, soldering, cutting and
polishing that can really screw things up if it goes
wrong.

Ricky Newman · From: Ontario, Canada

I just realized how inane that post sounded, but I'm going to leave it up for any stories folks might like to share.

Al Brisco, you've got mail.

Bryan Daste · From: Portland, Oregon, USA

If it's something you're not comfortable doing yourself, a pro is always worth the money. "Little things" can add up to a lot on PSG! Treat yourself right, via your guitar, and I bet your playing will sound better as you have more fun playing.

My $.02,
Bryan

chris ivey · From: california (deceased)

ricky...you sound smart enough to fix your own steel.
just go one step at a time. pedal travel can be adjusted by choices of leverage at the bellcranks and the changer mechanism holes. if you have to take a few rods underneath off to get to a wire...just follow the logical path of the bellcrank/rod/changer function. usually these items come apart easily. just be sure to draw yourself a picture so you can reassemble it properly. probably need an allen wrench or two. it's satisfying to do it yourself, though it's not a quick fix...steels can be aggravating and frustrating if you're in a hurry....but they're actually fairly simple!

Robert Harper · From: Alabama, USA

I wish I had left my Fender alone. Now I am going to send it to be repair what I fixed.
_________________
"Oh what a tangled web we weave when we first begin to deceive" Someone Famous

Robert Harper · From: Alabama, USA

I wish I had left my Fender alone. Now I am going to send it to be repair what I fixed.
_________________
"Oh what a tangled web we weave when we first begin to deceive" Someone Famous

James Morehead · From: Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.

Awe, just go for it!! Winking

Don't forget to take a few digital pictures, first.

James Morehead · From: Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.

All joking aside, Chris Ivey has great advice if you want to learn more about your guitar. A digital camera, and pics from different angles will get you through such a project.

But don't hesitate to take it to Al, as the other posters suggest, if you are not comfortable digging into it yourself, though. Enjoy

Gary Carriger · From: Victoria, Texas

Ricky,
IMO...in pretty important to know the underside of your guitar, and to fix it yourself if you can. Learning how it is put together enables you to troubleshoot things that get out of whack.
I played a MSA for 30 years, and know the bottom of them pretty well. It you want, drop me an email (and pictures if you can), and we can talk thru adjustments most likely.
Gary

Chris LeDrew · From: Canada

James is a deconstructive theorist. Cool

_________________
Jackson Steel Guitars
Web: www.chrisledrew.com

Bent Romnes · From: London,Ontario, Canada

Yeah Rick, don't be afraid...dive in head first. Learn as you go Smile

Chris LeDrew · From: Canada

Bent, it's looking great!
_________________
Jackson Steel Guitars
Web: www.chrisledrew.com

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

If you have no experience working on steels I'd suggest taking it to the local expert you mention and pay the piper. I tell 6-string players the same thing. Guitar setup is an art, and the are SO many things you can screw up (especially small details that SEEM unimportant) on a pedal steel that it's not worth thhe aggravation.

I'm an experienced guitar tech who used to have a part-time guitar and amp repair and setup business in my garage, and when I first started messing with steel I made the huge mistake of trying to work on it myself, then asking questions on the forum. I got lots of very well-intended advice...much of which conflicted. Remember that on the forum you might get advice from someone with 40 years experience as a steel guitar tech or someone who has never played one (I've seen it happen here). It's hard to tell what's good info and what's going to compound your problems until you find out who the "techs" are, and who just likes to post advice without any experience to base it on.

FWIW the guitar I first had (other than one aborted foray years ago) was an MSA Classic D10 like yours, and I got completely screwed up by loads of differing opinions. It ended up so fouled I sold it to someone who had a clue. IMO, having been through several guitars since and completely dismantling/rebuilding a few, the Classic is not the easiest thing in the world to learn on, and it is very unforgiving of minor setup errors. It's far to easy to screw it up.

Take it to a pro, and if you are allowed to watch (and not talk - just observe) do it. But the things you describe are not "do it yourself" projects for a rookie, IMO.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional

Bo Legg · Posted 3 Feb 2008 10:15 am

Take your choice
Example: Sho-Bud super pro knee lever bracket breaks which sooner or later going to happen and has happened to me three times. shipping both ways $140 part $25 labor $25 total of $190 and aprox. three weeks without your Steel. Compared to Order part $14 mailing cost $6 for a total $20 and getting it all done it about a week.
It takes a lot less time to repair it your self than it does to prepare it for shipping plus you can have your steel back up and going in one week instead of three weeks (not to mention the risks you take shipping your steel)and saving $170 don't hurt either.

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

If you feel that uncomfortable undertaking the project on your own, why not try a "middle road".

Make arrangements for your "Pro-Tech" to do the work, while you observe. See if he'll explain what he's doing as he works......Hopefully you'll then feel more comfortable w/ "Steel Mechanics" to do future projects on your own.

Steve English · From: Baja, Arizona

I also recommend that you learn the inner workings of your MSA yourself. After owning Sho-Buds and ZB guitars, I purchased my first MSA in the mid 70's specifically because it was a dream to work on compared with any other instruments available to me at the time. I had a ball experimenting with different configurations, and the set-ups to my individual playing style.

There is a wealth of information on the Carter site about everything pertaining to setting up a steel, not to mention all the great help available through the members of this forum.

Start by reading the info on "rodding" http://www.steelguitarinfo.com/infoindex.html
take pictures (and notes) of your currently assembled guitar, and then choose one pedal to experiment with. You'll really benefit by knowing what makes pedals stiff, spongy, too much slop, too little adjustment, etc.

I've rebuilt a number of MSA's in the past and have been pleased with the improved performance of each one. Now when I read about a new pull or pedal set-up on the forum, I have no reservations about trying them on my guitar. Now, most pedal changes/additions now take me less than 1/2hour to accomplish.

Pics: http://community.webshots.com/album/562356903JHWkKN?vhost=community
_________________
Always remember you're unique..... Just like everyone else

Jim Eaton · From: Santa Susana, Ca

I believe you can get the original, very clearly written, MSA manual online from the Carter website.
Might just be what you need to do the job yourself.
With some care and a few allen wrenches you will find the precision machining that was used on the MSA guitars makes them easier to work on than most older generation guitars.
Big thanks to John Fabian for making those manuals available.
JE:-)>

Ricky Newman · From: Ontario, Canada

Thanks for all the advice everyone,

For my part, I chose Tony's middle road about ten minutes after my original post. I have to plug the inimitable Al Brisco here. http://www.steelguitarcanada.com

I sent him a rambling e-mail listing what I wanted to do, explaining how little money I have and asking if he would look at my steel with me. Basically requesting the opportunity to ghoul around his shop, look over his shoulder and make a pest of myself (or at least that's how it would have read to me).

He got back to me in about 15 minutes :

Hi Ricky,

No problem, just give me a heads up as to when you wish to come by, & we'll
set a date.

Regards,
Al Brisco
SGC

What a great little community we have here.

Steve Alcott · From: New York, New York, USA

Excellent decision-Al Brisco is a great guy, a fine player, and from all I've heard and seen, an excellent technician. You'll learn a lot looking over his shoulder.

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