| Posts or Slots? |
| Post |
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39% |
[ 16 ] |
| Slot |
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60% |
[ 25 ] |
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| Total Votes : 41 |
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| Author |
Topic: Post Or Slot - Changer Finger |
Gary Shepherd
From:
Fox, Oklahoma, USA
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Posted 1 Dec 2007 8:01 pm |
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Do you prefer changer fingers with posts for attaching your strings to slide onto, or fingers with slots that your strings slide into?
_________________
Gary Shepherd
Carter D-10 & Peavey Nashville 1000
www.16tracks.com |
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Hans Holzherr
From:
Münchenbuchsee, Switzerland
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Posted 1 Dec 2007 11:53 pm
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Since a lot of manufacturers designed their changer as a scrapyard for string ends  I prefer the post because it may be easier to install a string catcher (foam rubber etc.)
Hans |
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2007 4:32 am
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Son, did you ever hit the nail on the head!!! The graveyard of 'Forgotten Ferrules' as it were. Until the suckers jam up your changer that is.
PRR |
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Tony Dingus
From:
Kingsport, Tennessee, USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2007 8:09 pm
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I like the post and wouldn't that be easier to make verses the slot? Good luck Gary.
Tony |
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2007 8:29 pm
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Right on!! The problem with the slots is that most companies use a one-size-fits-all dimension. Usually about .080". So the tiny .011" string is rarely in the center of the slot causing the ferrule to cock and put a kink in the end of the brand new string. That can cause it to break before you even get it up to pitch. I guess it's a matter of what you're content with. Some guys have told me they've actually broken pins. I've never seen one, but I suppose it could happen. Pins are far more cost-effective from a builder's standpoint as slots require multiple machine operations and additional de-burring. The pins should be installed at least 5 or 6 degrees 'downward' to help draw the string end toward the finger when under tension. This also ensures that the tension will not cause the string to jump off the pin due to a 'camming' effect.
PRR |
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David Doggett
From:
Bawl'mer, MD (formerly of MS, Nawluns, Gnashville, Knocksville, Lost Angeles, Bahsten. and Philly)
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Posted 4 Dec 2007 9:26 pm
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| I've had both, and the slots are way better. Instead of needing four hands to change strings, you only need three. |
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Ernie Pollock
From:
Mt Savage, Md USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2007 6:13 am Humm?
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I think the posts are much better than slots, anyone that has an old shobud super pro should be able to attest to this while there cussing putting on that .070 10th string on the C6th neck! I think the post actually make the guitar sound better also. Just my opinion here, not meant to step on anyones toes.
Ernie  [ps the guitar I am playing right now has slots]
http://www.hereintown.net/~shobud75/stock.htm |
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Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2007 7:55 am
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MSA's new changers have a slot, but also a pocket that keeps the ball from dropping down into the changer. When a string breaks, you simply lift the end out of the pocket with the string tail. Excellent design as is everything else on the Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro series.
_________________
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro. |
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Jim Palenscar
From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2007 8:42 am
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I agree about the slots rarely being wide enough to accommodate a string larger than an .054 hence necessitating smacking the larger strings with a hammer at the ferrule end to let 'em in  .
Fortunately they rarely break so it's not like needing to change an .011 way more frequently. |
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Earnest Bovine
From:
Los Angeles CA USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2007 9:22 am
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| Can you tell the difference in the sound? |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2007 10:12 am
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Jim P., you speak of flattening the fat strings' ends with a hammer; Ricky Davis recently posted about flattening them with a vice-grip.
I never thought of flattening them. What I've always done is grab the string with needle nose pliers right next to the ball and pre-bend it to more or less a right angle, such that the round side, not the flat side, of the ball will be facing the finger, and the core wire fits into the bottom of the slot.
I wonder if flattening them is better? I would think once the string has been tightened up and stretched till it no longer goes flat (in pitch!) when pulled, the string is probably held tight against the finger, so contact isn't significantly less than if it were in the slot all the way. |
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Jim Palenscar
From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2007 10:32 am
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| I don't know that I can tell any difference in sound and I've tried other methods with varying degrees of success. The flat area does not extend to where the string makes too much contact with the finger as I just catch the last 1/8" or so by sticking it on the edge of my vise and is not necessary to do very frequently as a number of changers will accept a thicker string. Another pet peeve is that some tuner shafts won't accept thicker strings so they have to be drilled out. |
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