| Author |
Topic: Fender 1000 - how to connect cables to pull 3 strings? |
Nic du Toit
From:
Milnerton, Cape, South Africa
|
Posted 21 Oct 2007 5:10 pm |
|
How do you connect cables and pulleys to pull 3 strings on an E9th Fender 1000?
There is a knee lever with one pulley (and 2 loops) pulling both E's to D#, but how do you pull the string 2 lower as well with the same lever? There is a crosshaft with bellcranks on this knee lever.
Any help appreciated. |
|
|
 |
Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
|
Posted 23 Oct 2007 8:06 am
|
|
Uhh...add another bellcrank.  |
|
|
|
Nic du Toit
From:
Milnerton, Cape, South Africa
|
Posted 23 Oct 2007 8:43 am
|
|
Hi Donny,
This is a cable guitar. So if the 2 strings reach their stops, the newly added bellcrank for the 3rd string cannot travel any more distance because the crossrod has stopped rotating. And vice versa. |
|
|
|
Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
|
Posted 23 Oct 2007 10:03 am
|
|
Nic,
If you can spring load the third pull, it may work. Maybe a setup like on the Maverick with a spring on the short pull.
BF
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!! |
|
|
|
Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
|
Posted 23 Oct 2007 12:32 pm
|
|
Sure, you can use a small spring, ljust ike Bill said. Or, you can add a stop to the crossrod, and then just limit the amount of pull that way. Or, you can use two more pulleys, and branch the two groups of pulls off of one master pulley. There's many ways to do it - but the easiest way, by far, is with a firm stop on the crossrod. Adjust it so there's enough movement for the longest pull, and then back-tune the other two changes.  |
|
|
|
Nic du Toit
From:
Milnerton, Cape, South Africa
|
|
|
|
Randy Carson
From:
San Antonio, Texas, USA
|
Posted 26 Oct 2007 8:13 pm Fender Steels
|
|
Can you guys tell me how well these old Fenders play in tune compared with a modern guitar. I've always wanted one, but being a fiddle player first tuning drives me crazy.
Any input would be more than appreciated.
Thanks
Randy |
|
|
|
Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
|
Posted 27 Oct 2007 4:16 am
|
|
Nic,
Another thing you might consider is replacing the phillips head tuning screws with allenhead cap screws.
Bill
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!! |
|
|
|
Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
|
Posted 27 Oct 2007 7:56 am
|
|
Randy - Many of them do not play in tune properly - but only because they either have not been maintained or are not set up well.
If everything is adjusted and lubed properly they play as accurately as any other steel. My long-scale 100o, hichis my main player, is every bit as precise as my GFI Ultra. The Fenders play a bit stiffer, but that can be adjusted as well, as can chnges be made to allow for double raises and lowers, knees added, etc.
If you listen to Sneaky Pete's work - especially the mid-70's Burritos stuff and studio work where he's heard very clearly - you'll hear how although the tone and style is different from "normal" steel, there are no problems with the mechanics, and his was essentially a stock-type setup with multiple-pulley cable pulls, turnbuckles, etc. All the added stuff still was based on the standard Fender design.
When I've checked out guitars for people who have just bought them (either personally or via email or phone) I find pretty consistent issues - non-turning large pulleys; same problem with some of the small ones; badly adjusted turnbuckles; dirty/slow pedal levers (bellcranks for lack of a better term) and dirty changers. All those pulleys HAVE to move freely - and when they do it makes a world of difference.
I still do not think they are really intended for E9 playing, even though you can make them work just fine - there are tons of guitars designed for that. When tuned to B6 or a Sacred Steel E tuning hat's voiced lower they just sound huge, and they were designed around an A6 tuning - E9 is all top-end and just doesn't bring out the fat mids of the Fender pickups.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
|
|
|
Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
|
Posted 27 Oct 2007 10:17 am
|
|
Do you like tinkering with the points and plugs in your car, and adjusting the carburetor every few months? Or, do you like to just turn the key and drive until the warranty is gone?
Like a car from the '50s or '60s, the old cable Fenders are pretty cool, but they're definitely not for everyone! If you don't have a good ear, and you don't like to "tinker", better pass. Ordinary modern steels will stay adjusted for years at a time, whereas the Fenders require far more frequent attention. Modern steels have the advantage of having the mechanics stay where you put them. Throw a 1000 in your trunk and drive across 5 states and you will likely find the cables have all slacked off, or maybe even come apart! Now, that's not a big deal if you know the guitar well, but a novice will start cranking the turnbuckles back up until it can't be tuned or played. He might even overlap the cables in haste, causing a failure in short order. In addition, too much pedal pressure may snap a loop, or pull a cable apart, so they're not suited for a 300 lb. club-footed dozer driver who can't regulate what his feet are doing. If you're willing to understand and accept the limitations, design, and advantages of the guitar, it's a blast. If you like noodling with something clunky, old and heavy, they're also great.
But if you want anything like modern precision, compactness, light weight, and versatility, the Fender ain't for you. |
|
|
|
Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
|
Posted 29 Oct 2007 3:24 pm
|
|
Donny makes some great points. You DO have to know how to tinker with things and be creative to overcome some of the issues (turnbuckles/cables coming loose and such are easy things to prevent, actually - but you DO have to be proactive).
OTOH, there certainly seem to be a lot of players (judging by the emails I get) that are not looking for the norm - retro players, country rockers, experimental types, and vintage guitar player/tech types looking to noodle with steel. For many the so-called "limitations" are part of the fun - and especially for 6-stringers, tone can be huge piece of the puzzle...and there's no similar sounding guitar (modern steels seemingly headed towards the "one tone fits all" goal).
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
|
|
|
