Cleaning and lube

Matthew Prouty · From: Warsaw, Poland

Its been about 1 year since I received my steel and it has been around the world with me. I think its time to clean and lube it as the B pedal is starting to stick.

What do you all recommend?

Lefty P.

Mike Wheeler · From: Delaware, Ohio, USA

Mathew, for a complete disassembly and cleaning, I use a good degreaser from the auto parts store. (I don't like to use kerosene, or gasoline) Spray it on a rag and wipe the grunge away. Be careful not to get it on a lacquer finish, or plastic parts. It might damage them.

For lube I recommend Tri-Flow, a teflon based lubricant in the squeeze bottle...Tri-Flow...excellent stuff, IMO, and it doesn't attract dust and dirt like oil does. You can also use a high quality oil, if you like. Use the lube sparingly, a drop at a time. A little goes a long way...especially the Tri-Flow.

If you aren't going to do any disassembly, just apply the lube, a drop at a time, to all the places where metal to metal contact is made. Don't lube any plastic bushings, like the ones some steels use today on the ends of the cross-shafts (they don't need lubing). For example, put a drop between each of the changer fingers and help it migrate in by actuating the pedals and knees.

I would only advise using a degreaser on disassembed mechanisms, before reassembling. I wouldn't use it on a setup guitar.

When I played pro, I would do a complete disassembly every year, inspect and clean every single part, apply Tri-Flow where needed, and reassemble and adjust. My guitar would feel like it was brand new again. It was also a good way to find worn and potentially troublesome parts and replace them before they could cause me trouble.

I would recommend this kind of teardown for any player's guitar that's played on 3 to 5 gigs a week all year...especially a road guitar...but to each his own. Some don't think this is necessary. I enjoy doing it, so I do it.
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Best regards,
Mike

Chris LeDrew · From: Canada

Matthew,

Have you made sure that the sticking B pedal is not related to a pull-rod issue underneath? I've had sticky pedals from time to time on different guitars, and it was usually due to pull rods rubbing against other rods and pullers in the undercarriage. This is probably not your problem, but I thought I'd throw it out there anyway, in case you hadn't checked for a possible mechanical cause.
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Jackson Steel Guitars
Web: www.chrisledrew.com

A. J. Schobert · From: Cincinnati, Ohio,

I like to use 3 in one oil, and as Mike said, I lube everything, where metal and metal touch, I like to pay attention to my knees, this may be a pet peeve of mine.

Matthew Prouty · From: Warsaw, Poland

I checked underneth and everything looks good. I used some WD40 (even though I was advised not to) about 2 months ago and it worked good, now I have all the options of the free world available to me so I am going go get some good lube tomorrow.

Thanks!
M.

Harvey Richman · From: Georgia, USA

Hi Matthew. I also like Tri Flow, great stuff.
Best Regards
Harvey

Mike Wheeler · From: Delaware, Ohio, USA

Mathew, that WD-40 may be the cause of the sticking pedal. As that stuff evaporates, it leaves behind a sticky film that can gum up mechanisms. Crying or Very sad

If it's frequently used on a changer, the only way to remove the sticky gum is to disassemble and clean it. And throw that WD-40 away! Laughing

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Best regards,
Mike

Lee Baucum · From: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier

No, don't throw the WD-40 away. It makes a great hand-cleaner. That's about all it's good for. I have heard, though, that it's good for rusty gate hinges out on the ranch.

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

What Mike Wheeler said, except for cleaning I only use solvents that leave no residue; acetone (nail polish remover) or naphtha (Ronson lighter fluid) are two solvents that will flush out the gunk and leave no residue that attracts dirt. Most other solvents, including degreasers, kerosene, lacquer thinner etc. leave a thin film, and that will cause contnued dirt pickup.

Once you're done with the flush-out, use Tri-Flow as Mike mentioned. I use *nothing* else ohn guitars any longer - ALL oils attract dirt, break down over time and become sticky, The Tri-Flow is a Teflon that leaves a dry, non-sticky film once the carrier solvent evaporates. On some guitars it has made drastic differences in playability.

And no one should EVER let a can of WD-40 within 50 feet of a guitar. Stuff like 3-in-1 oil is OK....but only if you flush it out and redo it every 3 months or so, more often if you play outdoors gigs where dust WILL be a problem.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional

Jerry L Miller · From: Sublette, Kansas, USA

I use " free " made by certified lab's not easy to find cleans very good. spray between the fingers and let drip on a cloth. and relub with 3-in one oil till it drips i do this about every 2 months works very good.
jerry Very Happy

Mike Wheeler · From: Delaware, Ohio, USA

Jim, as usual, very good point about the cleaner. Thanks, my friend.

I did forget to mention that my final cleaning step is to wipe down the parts with alcohol to remove the residue. Duhh!! The cleaner I've been using I got real, real, cheap from where I work, so, along with the alcohol, it's a low cost approach.

I've got an MCI, U12, fixer-upper coming this week and am gathering supplies for the job...this thread has helped me get my thoughts together...which is a job in itself!! Laughing

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Best regards,
Mike

Lee Baucum · From: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier

Mike mentioned using Tri-Flow as a lubricant. It goes on wet and dries, leaving a fine coat of Teflon as the dry lubricant. I've used that stuff for years, but can no longer find it down here.

Teflon is a brand name for polytetrafluoroethylene. I found another spray lube that works just like Tri-Flow. It's called Liquid Wrench Dry-Lube With PTFE. PTFE stands for polytetrafluoroethylene. I've found this product at The Home Depot.

Lee, from South Texas

Mike Wheeler · From: Delaware, Ohio, USA

Crawford Tools carries it. Good price, too.

Here's the link
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Best regards,
Mike

Mike Phillips · From: Brooklyn, NY

Figured I'd pass on this CLEANING tip:

I just took apart an old S-10 Push/Pull for cleaning. This is a 1974 instrument and the underside parts had the requisite "frosting" of grease, grime, nicotine, dust, etc...

I picked up a gallon of Simple Green and a cheap paint bucket. Using the stuff straight, no water, I dropped the parts in for a few minutes, gave them a shake, little scrub with an old toothbrush - and now the stuff is like new. The changer looks like it just got made!

Best part is, the Simple Green is all biodegradable and non-toxic and i did all the work right in my apartment.

Mike

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

Mike P - You did lube it with something after the cleaning, right?
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional

Mike Phillips · From: Brooklyn, NY

Hi Jim -

Yeah, I lubed the changer with some 3-and-1 after it was cleaned, and I'll do more once it is all put back together. I'm looking for a local store that sells that Tri-Flow, also. Whattya think? Auto parts place?

Thanks,
Mike

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

Around here most small hardware stores sell it. I think some Home Depot stores have it - it's a Sherwin Williams product and HD's carry Ralph Lauren paint, an SW line.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional

Tim Walker · From: Marin County, CA (originally U.K)

hi mike, where do you get the simple green from. sounds good.
thanks, tim

Mike Phillips · From: Brooklyn, NY

I got the Simple Green at Lowe's (gallon was about $11) but I bet they'd have it just about "anywhere fine cleaning supplies are sold". I really appreciated the no-fumes aspect of it. I didn't even wear gloves. It kinda smells like mouthwash - but I'm gonna refrain from using it as such.

NOTE: even though it is not caustic, I still took great care to get this nowhere near the lacquer finish (and I would do the same with Mica just to be safe). It didn't hurt the chrome, though. I used it on the interior of the endplates, the keyhead, the rods, the bell cranks... everything. Man, the set collars look like I buffed them in one of those gem tumblers.

Mike

Tim Walker · From: Marin County, CA (originally U.K)

thanks mike !

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

Check the other thread regarding cleaning - Simple Green is a water-based material, and I'd be hesitant to use anything water-based on metal parts, whether steel or aluminum, when you can use lighter fluid (naphtha) that leaves no residue, no corrosion, and doesn't hurt finishes.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional

Mike Phillips · From: Brooklyn, NY

Jim S --

Do you think that the Simple Green is gonna corrode my parts?

I really wanted an environmentally-friendly solution. From all appearances, this has worked well for me.

Mike

Bob Kagy · From: Lafayette, CO USA

For Tri-Flo, if you can't find it anywhere else, local bike shops always have it. (but there's not always one around)

Don Walworth · From: Gilmer, Texas, USA

Check Ebay - type "Tri Flow" and you should get a lot of hits. I ordered mine that way.

Simple Green is a great cleaner (never have used it on the guitar) but I clean my old bus conversion motor homes engine -- car engines -- tractor, etc ... Lowe's carry's this plus our auto parts houses and Sam's.

Don

Lee Baucum · From: McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier

As I mentioned above, if you can't find Tri-Flow locally, go to your local Home Depot. That's where I found Liquid Wrench Dry-Lube With PTFE. It is also a "teflon" based dry lube.

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