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Topic: removing endplate on P/P |
Steven Welborn
From:
Ojai,CA USA
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Posted 12 May 2007 2:19 pm |
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| I need to remove the endplate (key head side) in order to add a push rod (compensator). Since the machine heads are attached on one end via a bolt thru the deck into the endplate, I wuold think it a good idea to remove all strings (tension) before hand correct? No other issues right? thanks |
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Peter Freiberger
From:
California, USA
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Posted 12 May 2007 2:50 pm
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| I'm no PP expert but here's what works for me. To remove the endplate and work with the lowering rods on my PP I don't completely remove the strings, just take all the tension off. I recently added a compensator on string 7, working off the "A" pedal. I set it to just nick the 7th string down at the end of the pedal's travel, with no spring between the bellcrank and collar (I used one of those knurled adjustable swivel things, but you don't have to). The pedal feels the same with the slightest "bump" at the bottom. I also tried to get the lowest possible return spring tension on the 7th string to minimize the "bump". |
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Steven Welborn
From:
Ojai,CA USA
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Posted 13 May 2007 10:38 am
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| Sounds like that might be the best way to go for minimal "feel" interferrence. Im going to go with the B peda though. The other option I guess would be to use a tension spring, no knurled tuner underneath, and tune the compensator at end plate. Which would be more convenient, but which ever interferes least with the action will be the greatest concern. Think I'll check in with B. Seymoure for advice and parts. Anyone else? - |
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Peter Freiberger
From:
California, USA
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Posted 13 May 2007 12:06 pm
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I tried setting up my compensator with a spring but because the changer movement is very short it starts compressing the spring almost immediately, adding effort to the pedal. You can make it work without the knurled adjuster if you spend some time setting the collar on the return rod so it just picks up at the end of the travel, but the adjuster is easier.
There seem to be differing opinions which pedal to use to activate the compensator(s) on the F#'s. My choice is "A" for the 7th string and I think I'm going try one on the 1st string off the "B" pedal.
Peter Freiberger |
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Jerry Roller
From:
Van Buren, Arkansas USA
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Posted 13 May 2007 1:32 pm
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My answer to your question is that you need to loosen or remove the strings before removing the endplate however, I would not remove the endplate to put a rod in. You can put the rod in from the changer end and it will bow enough to get it in. You need to protect the belly from being scrapped by the end of the rod as you guide it thru. The rod can ride against the changer end plate between the changer fingers and you can get it into place without kinking the push rod.
Jerry |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 14 May 2007 6:30 am
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I agree with Jerry.
There is absolutely NO need to remove an endplate to add a rod. I have re-rodded many a p/p with the endplates intact.
Including this one:
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Peter Freiberger
From:
California, USA
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Posted 14 May 2007 6:42 am
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| I agree you don't absolutely need to remove the endplate to install rods, especially shorter ones, but for longer ones I like to. It's not much more work and my thinking is that the less bending of the rod installing it the less it may be predisposed to flexing in use. Again, I'm no expert on P/P's. If it's not a trade secret I wonder what guys like Bobbe Seymour, Mike Cass or Bobby Bowman do. |
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Jerry Roller
From:
Van Buren, Arkansas USA
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Posted 14 May 2007 8:07 am
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Peter, please excuse me but I did not realize there were only 3 guys who knew what they were doing when it comes to working on push pulls. I am only trying to help a guy to keep him from unnecessarily removing an endplate. It's obvious that it is not a trade secret because I just gave the answer. It is always best to avoid disturbing parts which have been in place for years. You can take a great sounding guitar, take it apart and put it back and change the tone. Some refer to this as the parts being "married" to one another. Peter, I assure you that I am in absolute agreement with you that you named three guys who in fact know very well what they are doing as guitar mechanics, however, I also assure you that you gave a very short list of guys who are very well qualified.
Jerry |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 14 May 2007 8:11 am
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Jerry,
You and I must be on the "B" list. 
PS: I missed seeing you at this year's gospel show in Indy.  |
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Peter Freiberger
From:
California, USA
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Posted 14 May 2007 10:24 am
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| Sorry to hurt your feelings. I did say "guys like..." Those were simply the first three names that came to mind. At any rate there's at least one too many experts contributing here, so I'll back off. |
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Steven Welborn
From:
Ojai,CA USA
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Posted 14 May 2007 11:19 am
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| OK, actually I have taken a few rods in and out via the route mentioned with out endplate removal. Since a few more have chimed in here, id like to ask if anyone knows a source for parts such as those bell crank swivel things with the bored out tunable bolt? Steel Guitar Nashville no longer does P/P parts. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 14 May 2007 11:24 am
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Give Jerry Roller a shout and if all else fails go
to the man himself: Ron Lashley Jr. w/Emmons.  |
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Willis Vanderberg
From:
Petoskey Mi
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Posted 14 May 2007 4:49 pm
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I wouldn't pull the end plate either. I don't do p/ps for a livin, but I have done a few.
I could name a number of good p/p mechanics. Jerry is one and Irv knows where of he speaks. Albert Johnson is also very good.
The master in my opinion is Clem Schmitz.
He wrote the original p/p bible many, many, years ago and it has been copied by some of the
" experts ". I think it surpasses anything I have ever read on Emmons push pull guitars.He is also, one nice guy.
Of course this is only my two cents.
Bud |
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