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Topic: Lowers return sharp on Fender 1000 |
C E Holden
From:
Austin, TX
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Posted 8 May 2007 1:33 pm |
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Nothing is interfering with the string fingers on the changer, and no cables are binding. Lowering 1/2 tone on a wound and plain string. Both strings come back around +20 cents sharp every time....not flat, as I would expect, but sharp. If I re-tune the strings at the keyhead, hit the pedal again, I get the same result.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Craig |
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Moon in Alaska
From:
Kasilof, Alaska * R.I.P.
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Posted 8 May 2007 2:37 pm
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Craig.... I have owned a 1962 Fender 400 since new and have a lot of experience with that changer. If the changer gets dirty with old oil "gunk", the lower finger drags the raise finger. Turn the guitar over and observe if the raise finger is moving
when you move the lower pedal. If so, the changer needs a good cleaning and relub. I have had a simular problem with mine, so see if that is the problem. Another fast check....lower the string, let it return, If it is sharp, hit the raise pedal, release and see if the string comes back different. If so, the changer is draging the raise finger and needs cleaning..
If you want to see a photo of my Fender 400 click on my web site below...
Good luck !!
Moon
_________________
<<Moon>>
==Carter S-10==
1962 Fender 400
== Evans FET 500 Custom LV ==
http://www.geocities.com/moon9999610/alaska.html |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 8 May 2007 5:24 pm
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The most common problem novices have with these guitars is over-tightening the turnbuckles. Do you have slack in the cables? If the raise/lower levers are actuated any amount at all when you're not pressing a pedal, you will never be able to tune it!
Make sure all the fingers are against the stop plate (lined up perfectly) whan no pedals are pressed. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 8 May 2007 9:17 pm
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What they both said - and to clean the changer, use a non-residue solvent like naphtha (lighter fluid) to flush out all the gunk (it will not harm the finish). Then the best lubricant I've found is Tri-Fow; it's a liquid that dries to a Teflon film. It doesn't attract dirt and the parts move very smoothly.
I had the same problem a couple years ago and Donny's turnbuckle advice was the ticket.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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C E Holden
From:
Austin, TX
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Posted 9 May 2007 5:32 am
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The turnbuckles are slack enough...this isn't my first 1000 or 400 by far!! I've also made sure that the cables are on track in the pulley block (that's given me a problem before). I'll try cleaning the changer and see if that helps. Jim, you say that naptha won't hurt the finish---I suppose then I don't have to take it apart to clean it?
Thanks y'all!
Craig |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 9 May 2007 10:11 pm
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CE - Yes, you can leave the changer installed. You mentioned the pulley block - one time I had a problem with the 4th string on my 400 that was a stuck pulley in the block. I'd flush that unit out (they seem to get real gummy - oil is the last thing I'd use on one) and give it the Teflon treatment as well. I should have mentioned that one the first time as well.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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Jerry H. Moore
From:
Newnan, GA, USA
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Posted 10 May 2007 2:01 am
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| Are the springs correct? |
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C E Holden
From:
Austin, TX
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Posted 10 May 2007 5:55 am
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YAY! It seems to workee. Thanks for all your input.
Craig |
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Jerry H. Moore
From:
Newnan, GA, USA
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Posted 10 May 2007 12:20 pm
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| What fixed it? I still have an old 1000. What if it's contagious? Glad you got it going..... |
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C E Holden
From:
Austin, TX
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Posted 13 May 2007 8:02 am
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| Cleaning it seemed to take care of the problem. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 13 May 2007 4:55 pm
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I kind of expected that. The one maintenance item with these guitars to stay on top of is cleaning/lubrication, and I've seen plenty where players thought they were doing the right thing be regularly oiling the moving parts.
Wrong.
That eventually gums up the works. I used to use light-viscosity sewing-machine oil, but even that picks up dirt. I switched to a dry graphite for a while until I found the Teflon stuff - now it's just a decent cleaning with solvent to flush out any collected dirt, application of Tri-Flow and no gumminess. Really good stuff.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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