| Author |
Topic: Pro Bud Newbie tuning issues |
Stephen Dorer
From:
Michigan, USA
|
Posted 12 Nov 2022 1:36 pm |
|
I just acquired a pro Bud steel (unsure of the model) and having some issues tuning. The middle pedal moves the low G# to a B and I read on this site some folks like it that way. Is this easily reversible? Also the 3rdpedal nt was only moving the E to F and when I adjusted the end bolt for the pedal it moved it to F# the note played open was now F. I then adjusted the hard stop to increase the range of the pitch change and I'm pretty close. E moves to F# and B moves to C#. I'm finding that I can tune the notes slightly flat open and play in tune with the pedals but I would like to do better. I would appreciate any insight folks could offer. Thanks for your patience.
Last edited by Stephen Dorer on 12 Nov 2022 8:58 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
|
 |
Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
|
Posted 12 Nov 2022 3:20 pm
|
|
Deleted
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 54 years and still counting.
Last edited by Richard Sinkler on 13 Nov 2022 4:46 am; edited 2 times in total |
|
|
|
Kenny Davis
From:
Great State of Oklahoma
|
Posted 12 Nov 2022 4:12 pm
|
|
Sounds like he's talking pedals, not levers. If using Emmons set-up, middle pedal should raise both G#'s to A. 3rd pedal raises E to F# and B to C#. As Richard said, you should read John Light's "Sticky" thread on over & under tuning. Seems as though that might be the issue, maybe not enough slack, etc.
Stephen, you might take some pics to help someone diagnose.
_________________
Best lyric in a country song: "...One more, Moon..." |
|
|
|
Stephen Dorer
From:
Michigan, USA
|
Posted 12 Nov 2022 9:05 pm
|
|
| The middle pedal moves the lower G# to B and the top G# to A. Another thread described this as if it was another alternate tuning and I wanted to know if it was possible to easily reverse this so that both G#s would move to A. It has one lever and there doesn't appear to be a stop on it. I did read the the thread regarding tuning and found it helpful. I think I might be dealing with some mechanical issues and some knowledge base issues as well. I'm hoping to find a book that explains some of these things. Appreciate your insight and patience. |
|
|
|
K Maul
From:
Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL
|
Posted 13 Nov 2022 5:47 am
|
|
I don’t think there is an actual book but there is a ton of info and help available here, on other sites and YouTube.
First rule: You should not adjust the pedal rods or travel as a way of tuning the pedal changes! The adjustments on the changer end of the guitar are for that purpose ONLY. An expert repair person can make changes like that but a beginner steel player should not go down that road. You’ll render the thing unplayable in no time!
If that G# is going up to B just use your tuning tool( be it socket or Allen hex wrench depending on the model), step on the B(middle) pedal and back off the adjustment until you reach the A note, where it should be.
There’s a lot more to learn but start there. YES pictures will help us help you, First to determine the actual model Sho~Bud you are talking about. Different models have different methods.
_________________
KEVIN MAUL: Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Donner, Evans, Excel, Fender, Fluger, GFI, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, MOYO, National, Oahu, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Williams, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing. |
|
|
|
Chris Brooks
From:
Providence, Rhode Island
|
Posted 13 Nov 2022 6:03 am
|
|
Stephen, I agree with K Maul. I would find someone near you who works on Sho- Buds. When I was a newbie, all this stuff was terra incognita.
If I understand you, the instrument has 1 knee lever . . . is that right? Well, you need at least one more.
Then you can concentrate on playing, not wrenching. |
|
|
|
K Maul
From:
Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL
|
Posted 13 Nov 2022 5:56 pm
|
|
Ben Keith used to say “Three pedals and one knee lever are enough to make me a million a year!”. Most people need more. Please, Stephen, give us a picture of the guitar!
_________________
KEVIN MAUL: Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Donner, Evans, Excel, Fender, Fluger, GFI, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, MOYO, National, Oahu, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Williams, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing. |
|
|
|
Stephen Dorer
From:
Michigan, USA
|
Posted 14 Nov 2022 5:48 am
|
|
The fella I purchased this from told me it had a C6 neck that was removed. I traded a Stratocaster which I seldom played (I'm a pianist) for this. I understand it may have limits but I think I will be able to play some music with it. Mozart's piano had 5 octaves compared to the modern piano's 7 1/2. He did ok. |
|
|
|
K Maul
From:
Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL
|
Posted 14 Nov 2022 7:52 am
|
|
Stephen,
Very helpful! Looks like your one knee lever lowers your Es. That is what Ben Keith's did, so you are on your way to your first million bucks! Raising E’s to F is the next most important knee lever to have..
The important info is on how to tune it. Those little barrels you see on the rods engage the baskets and raise or lower the string pitches. If they aren’t working it means they’re out of adjustment- over tightened so there’s no play(those little springs in the barrels look all scrunched), got loose so not close enough(adjustable with the small Allen set screw on each barrel) or the little bit of the spring that sticks out is not catching on the basket. That’s what holds onto the rod as you turn the hex socket that tunes the string. That’s a basic, hopefully not confusing, explanation of the system.
Here are some threads on “rack and barrel” Sho~Buds. Pros+cons
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=187071&sid=b396673eb734af7fb63e1356c21fd874
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=333956&sid=0d9470fbaf3353b81b96b4df8e940d00
http://www.psgparts.com/media/Tuning%20the%20Sho-Bud%20Rack%20&%20Barrel.pdf
_________________
KEVIN MAUL: Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Donner, Evans, Excel, Fender, Fluger, GFI, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, MOYO, National, Oahu, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Williams, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing. |
|
|
|
Stephen Dorer
From:
Michigan, USA
|
Posted 14 Nov 2022 6:26 pm
|
|
| Thanks for your replies and insight it is greatly appreciated. |
|
|
|
K Maul
From:
Hadley, NY/Hobe Sound, FL
|
Posted 15 Nov 2022 8:59 am
|
|
Hey Stephen, I see you’re friends with Billy Bratcher up in Vermont. Played a lot with his band and did some recording with them.
_________________
KEVIN MAUL: Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Donner, Evans, Excel, Fender, Fluger, GFI, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, MOYO, National, Oahu, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Williams, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing. |
|
|
|
Bengt Erlandsen
From:
Brekstad, NORWAY
|
Posted 15 Nov 2022 9:32 am
|
|
Could it be that your middle pedal was set up for a wound 6th string and that the guitar now has a plain 6th string ?
One cannot swap between plain - wound strings without also changing the length the pullrod travels in order to have the correct pitch raise/lower when pedal is engaged.
Even changing to a thicker/thinner string of same type (wound/plain) might cause pitch issues on a pedal/lever but not as severe pitch difference as going from a wound string to a plain string.
B.Erlandsen |
|
|
|
