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Topic: anyone try a Dynalap 8 string? |
Joseph De Feo
From:
Narberth, Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 11 Mar 2005 12:04 pm |
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I was checking E-bay and saw the Dynalap
kit. It seems to have decent wood and hardware with a Truetone 8 p/u. Has anyone
built this kit and played it? For the money
it seems to have other production laps beat.
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Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 11 Mar 2005 12:11 pm
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This is the second relist from that seller. He also has a 6 string.
Ron |
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Jay Fagerlie
From:
Lotus, California, USA
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Posted 11 Mar 2005 3:50 pm
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| He's also a forum member |
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Charlie McDonald
From:
out of the blue
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Posted 12 Mar 2005 6:23 am
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Joe, as soon as I get the money together (i've sold my old lap, and hoping for the rest to come from a sale of Bose 901's, listed under equipment) I'll have one. I believe it to be the best value on the market, as it has not only the hardware but the style, for those of us who love the National New Yorker but like to see the wood. Ask Mark some questions; he's a friendly guy and will be happy to answer.
I cannot imagine being disappointed with this fine quality instrument.
Charlie
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Mark Davis
From:
Bakersfield, Ca
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Posted 12 Mar 2005 9:47 am
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| I have one coming my way soon will post pics and a short review as soon as I get it. |
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Ron Whitfield
From:
Kaaawa, Hawaii, USA
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Posted 12 Mar 2005 4:16 pm
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Got mine yesterday, and I'm impressed with the very thotout design. Simple but effective it seems just from putting the easy parts together last night at work.
I got the walnut version, and found it's girth to be more 'substantial' than I'd expected it to be, unstrung it has virtually no resonance when tapped. But for $220/delivered, it's a pretty hefty lap steel at 5ish lbs., and fitted with the nice (but heavy) gold tuners and PU/etc. it comes to about 7 lbs. Sanded nicely, clean woodwork/free of debri and ready for a final prep, then the owners preferred finish, it's a nice product. I'm not waiting to coat it, but later may apply a bee's wax finish. The fret markers are not consistant in coloration (dark/light) and may not be of consequence after a finish is applied, but otherwise it may be something to focus on in the future, but not a drastic distraction on an otherwise attrctive fretboard. The nut is just a 1/8" brass blade, rounded on the top edge, and is wedged snugly into place between the tuners and fretboard. Tight enuf to allieve my initial 'looseness' concerns.
Will be doing the soldering/etc. tomorrow.
Overall/so far, I'm quite impressed and happy with it. The one point of concern is the fragility of the wooden tuner bracket. Careful with the pilot holes when drilling and don't bang/drop/crack it or there will be difficult repairs. I belive he's considering a metal bracket for the future. Still not sure of a loose bridge, but will play/listen before commenting.
Bottom line- Buy one.
At this price and quality, most can afford to buy and give them away to prospective steelers, and putting it together would give valuable lessons right from the start.
Hard to beat this deal.
The 2 other owners I've conferred with are happy with their's, altho both were new to steels.
Review Pt. 2 next week.
[This message was edited by Ron Whitfield on 12 March 2005 at 04:18 PM.] |
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db
From:
Bethlehem, PA 18015 USA
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Posted 12 Mar 2005 9:27 pm
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The metal 8-string keyhead is only $20 "in-the-rough" or $30 "Buffed" from Marrs!
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Dan Balde
U-12/8&5, S-7/D 3&1, S-6/E,A & G3
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Joseph De Feo
From:
Narberth, Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 14 Mar 2005 11:57 am
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Thanks for the replies, everyone.
I did purchase the 8 last friday. I was thinking of replacing the bridge and nut
from brass to steel. I like the idea
abount the metal tuning bridge, I'll check
Marrs' site? I'm new to a lot of this.
It seems with its layout and J.Wallace
p/u, this lap would have a steel sound.  |
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Ron Whitfield
From:
Kaaawa, Hawaii, USA
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Posted 16 Mar 2005 11:01 am
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Pt. 2
No solder/wiring done or good/flat strings on yet, but I connected the PU direct to the jack just to get a sound. And what a sound I got. I had to be quiet, so I played thru my Crate 'Taxi' w/headphones. Clean, low/mid/high on 10.
This way, the PU is very clear/transparent w/tons of headroom for the treble end. Extreme single coil sound, w/clear, crystaline highs all the way to the PU.
To get an overall sound acceptable to me and those in the darker, but still clear/Jerry Byrd camp, I had to take the high and mid to 0.
Then, this guitar started sounding beautiful.
I'm almost afraid to change anything but the strings now.
How this thing will sound thru a regular gig rig, only time will tell (hopefully soon). If the lower end of the aural spectrum is similar to the top in it's fullness, then Mark has hit the mark with this guitar.
Strung up, the body now resonates like mad, and the sustain is almost endless.
There are a few points of concern with the design/set up.
The headstock is located too close to the bridge, w/the 8th string tuner blocking access to the first fret. Not good. A 7 string wouldn't have nearly the problem.
The crowned blade nut must be grooved to keep strings in perfect position, unless you have string winding down to a science.
Thru the grape vine, I've learned that the wooden tuning bracket is merely glued to the headstock face with good 'ol Elmer's wood glue w/Mark (the builder/seller) suggesting not to use the most common C6th tuning with it's higher tension. This was never conveyed to me during the purchasing process (and, I never asked), nor have I seen it mentioned anywhere, but is a very pertinent point to omit when talking steels. However, the 23" in scale gives enuf tension relief that this should not pose a problem. But carefully setting a few screws here would not be unwise. A proper gluing with Elmer's is stronger that the surrounding wood, but a Marine style adhesive would be even more so.
If the builder has a concern, so should the buyer/player.
Should that bracket cut loose under pressure...
Overall, pretty impressive steel, at any price.
Kinda takes all the theories about what makes good sounding guitars and tosses it all back in the air. I expected this guitar's normal set up to provide a sound not unlike that of a morning visit to the throne.
Well, Floyd R. Turbo, wrong again! |
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Joseph De Feo
From:
Narberth, Pennsylvania, USA
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Ron Whitfield
From:
Kaaawa, Hawaii, USA
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Posted 16 Mar 2005 12:18 pm
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Joseph, as Mark suggested to me, try it as it comes before you think otherwise.
I've shelved the changes I had planned.
Your alterations may kill the golden goose. |
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Joseph De Feo
From:
Narberth, Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 16 Mar 2005 12:31 pm
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Ron, I has going to hold on any mods till I
completed and played kit. Parts will not go
to waist, because if it sounds that good, and it's only $220. I'll have to try another
with the mods. Do you put the sound in Hawaii or the country ( like PSG ) ? |
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Ron Whitfield
From:
Kaaawa, Hawaii, USA
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Posted 16 Mar 2005 1:32 pm
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J, I havn't got a full grip on it's potential yet, but after wiring it fully and playing thru some good amps, I'm bettin' it'll handle anything you can muster.
It does now.
Even I was coaxing real steel sounds out of it.
And THAT my friends, is the ultimate indorsement. |
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Mark Vinbury
From:
N. Kingstown, Rhode Island, USA
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Posted 16 Mar 2005 8:14 pm
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Hi. Thank you for the critique of the kit.All comments and suggestions are welcome.Guess I need to reply to a few things.
I'm not sure where the misinformation came from that you can't tune the guitar to C6th. That wouldn't be much fun!!
If memory serves me I have only discussed anything close to this with one person.They had a six string and were using "12-52" gauge strings for open E tuning. I mentioned that I'd be "carefull" of tuning a heavy set up to C6th.(seems like most C6th sets run about 0.036 or 0.038 for the C string).
My primary reason for this suggestion was, he has a used guitar where the previous owner mounted the tuners backward. --In my experience the gears inside a backward mounted tuner can slip because string tension levers the horizontal shaft away from the vertical shaft.--Most tuners I've seen are mounted so the string tension forces the shafts together.
Also, I didn't mention it in my correspondence to him,but I don't think guitar strings meant for E tuning sound right when cranked up to C6th .I do it all the time on my own guitar but it feels like the tension is wrong for the gauge and seems to deaden the low strings.
There are close to 40 kits out there. So far, I haven't had any reports of the keyheads breaking or pulling off.
I have had to replace a few (I mounted them backwards) The glue joint will not let go in spite of prying and repeated applications of boiling water.The tuning block has to be split with a sharp chisel and the remains pared and sanded off.
At this time I'm not convinced that I need to go for the extra expense of a metal keyhead. I like the wood ones (apparently so does GeorgeBoards). I'm planning to beef them up a little and I definitely see where some more room between the tuners and the nut is a good idea.
Their are,of course, plenty of upgrades or changes that a knowledgeable steeler might make to the kit.A sophisticated, totaly engineered,sonic masterpiece it ain't---I'll leave that to MSA and others.I am primarily interested in giving the Do-It-Yourself person a way to check out steel guitar without too much of a monetary commitment.
[This message was edited by Mark Vinbury on 16 March 2005 at 08:52 PM.] |
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Loni Specter
From:
West Hills, CA, USA
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Posted 17 Mar 2005 7:45 am
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| I think you've created a wonderful kit, and I wish I had thought of it myself. There will always be some players who will "customize/upgrade" a guitar regardless of price paid. I suppose you could always offer the kit without the tuner mount for a couple bucks less, or offer to put the metal one on for more money. Kinda like a Harley bolt on upgrade. Dynalap, Dynaglide, what's the difference? |
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Mark Vinbury
From:
N. Kingstown, Rhode Island, USA
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Posted 17 Mar 2005 12:29 pm
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Thanks Loni I appreciate your comments and admire and enjoy your artistic aproach to steel design.
Speaking of "wish I'd thought of it" That "Amp Show" idea caught me by surprise.Very cool!!
At this time the kits are assembled on a per order basis so I'd have no problem leaving off the keyhead or making changes to accomodate owner supplied parts.
So far I haven't found a metal keyhead I want to invest in or offer as an option.If it becomes a necessity I'll probably work up my own design.
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James Quackenbush
From:
Pomona, New York, USA
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Posted 17 Mar 2005 2:41 pm
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Loni,
Dynalap, Dynaglide, what's the difference?
About 15-20 grand !!!.....
Mark,
Nice job on this lap kit .....I'll be getting one as soon as you figure out a metal keyhead solution for an 8 string.....Jim |
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Ron Whitfield
From:
Kaaawa, Hawaii, USA
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Posted 17 Mar 2005 2:49 pm
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Glad to hear you clear the air on those matters Mark.
It was indeed John whom informed me. He's also interested in building steels and the matter came up thru discussions. Whether he or I was misinformed or not, it ended up fairly factual and a subject that was worthy of debate between us.
I did mention having mine tuned to C6, so obviously it can be done, and without worry.
I'll be throwing on a set of heavy flats (and a pair of safety goggles) as soon as I'm done here.
I too reversed the tuners, as I liked the way they looked in that position and wound the string under the post, making the turning direction normal again and giving a bit more downward pressure from the nut.
I'm quite pleased/intrigued with mine so far, and impressed with Mark's entry level efforts, knowing that after a few niggles are worked out, they will be even better.
Check 'em out!
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Terry Farmer
From:
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
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Posted 17 Mar 2005 3:59 pm
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From the viewpoint of someone who has built one lap steel and is in the process of building a couple more..........Mark's kit is an incredible good deal. The workmanship looks superb. The harware is first class. Frankly, I can't figure out how Mark is offerering these kits for his low price. The parts and labor are worth way more than what he's asking. It's got to be "labor of love". He's certainly not making any money with the venture. My hat is off to you, Mark. Thanks for your contribution to the world of lap steelin'.
Peace,
Terry |
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db
From:
Bethlehem, PA 18015 USA
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Posted 17 Mar 2005 6:39 pm
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BTW . . . The Marrs keyhead has 1/4" step spacing and the Dynalap is 3/8".
So, all of the strings will not be exactly straight path over the nut.
Not a big problem, in that the strings are not moving as with a PS.
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Dan Balde
U-12/8&5, S-7/D 3&1, S-6/E,A & G3
[This message was edited by db on 17 March 2005 at 06:41 PM.] |
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db
From:
Bethlehem, PA 18015 USA
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Posted 18 Mar 2005 6:26 pm
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Here is a tracing of the Marrs 8 string keyhead casting with some dimensions
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Dan Balde
U-12/8&5, S-7/D 3&1, S-6/E,A & G3
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Michael Whitley
From:
Oxford, Mississippi, USA
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Posted 16 Apr 2005 8:52 am
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| I just shot the first coat of laquer on my new 8 string. I don't know what she'll sound like yet, but this is a beautiful piece of woodwork. |
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Joseph De Feo
From:
Narberth, Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 19 Apr 2005 8:42 am
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Just to let everyone know. I stained with
a light coat of "pecan" and finsihed with three coats of tung oil. I am still working on the photo's thru photobucket, but their comming soon. This lap absolutely screams!!
The right combo of wood and Jerry Wallace.
I have played this every night since construction, it really does sound that good.
I used a telecaster wiring scheme with a .47
cap and a treble retention cap , .001, at the
volume pot. So you can roll the tone knob for
a Speedy West Wa-Wa effect. If you use a compressor, you can roll back on the volume,
and it stays plenty bright. A lot of PSG sound in there! |
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Michael Whitley
From:
Oxford, Mississippi, USA
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Posted 20 Apr 2005 10:51 am
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| I finished assembling her last night and stayed up way too late playing it. This is a well designed instrument, and it sounds beautiful. |
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Jay Fagerlie
From:
Lotus, California, USA
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Posted 21 Apr 2005 6:01 am
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| We want pics!!! |
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So , I hope, no problem for
I will post again as this project comes
