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Author Topic:  Copy fretboard
Lee Gillespie


From:
Cheyenne, Wy. USA
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2007 1:51 pm    
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Any one got any suggestions on how to copy a fretboard. I have tried many different ways to copy off my T-8 but they just dont line up or be stright.
EX. 1 I put a tissue paper on top and used a stright edge..nope.
Ex 2. used pencil and marked the edge of the fretboard where the fets are. Then put a copy of the fretbboard on to of the T-8.. then stright ruled between the two marks... nope.
When I look at the one I penciled the marks tilt when compared to the other 2 necks.... help...... Lee
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Mark Vinbury

 

From:
N. Kingstown, Rhode Island, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2007 2:53 pm    
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Seems like you should skip the transfer routine and just measure off the distances on your new fretboard using a fret calculator like this-
http://www.dougsparling.com/software/fretcalc/
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Bill Creller

 

From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2007 4:00 pm    
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Lee, the problem is that the fret boards you are trying to copy may have a taper from the nut to the high end of the scale. They can't be squared from the edge. What scale length are you trying to copy?
Regards BILL
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Terry Farmer


From:
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2007 4:11 pm    
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Good suggestions. Here's my 2 cents. Determine your scale length and # of frets desired. Use the fret calculator as suggested. Draw it up on a Cad program. Print it out full size. You can make it ridiculously accurate with this method.
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Bill Creller

 

From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2007 4:22 pm    
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I have some 22 1/2 scale fretboards for lap steel, made from plastic used for engraving signs, placards etc, black with white frets. Also have some on walnut plastic with white frets. I get 30 bucks for them. I made them on a CNC mill, so they are exactly where they should be. +/- .0001" Very Happy
Regards BILL
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Lee Gillespie


From:
Cheyenne, Wy. USA
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2007 5:49 pm     Fretboard
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Mark, Bill, Terry... Thanks a million for the comeback. Yes the board does taper. I thought this was my problem but not sure.
It sure is a frustrating thing. Lee
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Randy Reeves


From:
LaCrosse, Wisconsin, USA
Post  Posted 25 Jan 2007 7:46 pm    
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I have run into the same problem with the taper and the need for a straight edge.
I thought why not start with square edge stock, do the math and mark the frets, then taper to size.
I tried it and it works.
if one is using pre-made tapered fret board an alternative would be to make a simple jig to hold things true.
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Larry Phleger

 

From:
DuBois, PA
Post  Posted 26 Jan 2007 6:03 am    
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Peter from Cape Town, South Africa posted a technique for copying fretboards in this thread.
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=7587&highlight=
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Terry Farmer


From:
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Post  Posted 26 Jan 2007 7:48 am    
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Lee, check your email concerning your question about CAD programs. After rereading this thread, it seems apparrant that the taper of the fretboard is what is giving you problems. In that case, work from a center line instead of one edge. Line up the centerline of your copy with the centerline of whatever you're trying to transfer it too and you should be fine.
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Lee Gillespie


From:
Cheyenne, Wy. USA
Post  Posted 26 Jan 2007 10:08 am     Copy Fretboard
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Boy.... Am I getting an education on copying fretboard. Who would think it would be so complicated... Anyhow I have down loaded all the great info and now to absorb it. I wish to thank each and everyone for their suggestions, and I hope it will be informative to other formites with the same dream as mine to make my own lap steel. I have the cardboard templates all cut and am ready to start the wood butchering. I will post pictures when the project is completed. Thanks again to all Lee
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Bill Creller

 

From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 26 Jan 2007 11:28 am    
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I would think that doing it on the cad program would be very accurate. That's how mine are made, and fed into a CNC mill.
Good luck with that Lee Smile
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