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Topic: my high B string went way out last night, need help! |
Kenny Brown
From:
Auburn, Alabama, USA
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Posted 19 Aug 2007 5:01 pm |
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middle of the third set I started noticing a definite problem so I went to tune as I would normally. Basically there was nothing I could do to bring the string back in. It would raise to C# no problem and stay there, however, it was the B I could never dial back in. My tuner kept registering the B as very sharp. I have a power source for my tuner so that can be ruled out. I finished the set w/out playing that string b/c it was that rough sounding. Today, the same problem. No other strings, no other problems, just the one I described. I just don't understand why I couldnt bring the B right back in.
other info: E9 and I'm a rookie. I may need "kid gloves on" for explanations.
thanks in advance!
back to trying to figure out what went wrong. |
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jim flynn
From:
Salado,Texas
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Posted 19 Aug 2007 5:26 pm B wont return
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Kenny, turn the guitar upside down and actuate the affected pedal, look at the B return spring, it should return against the stop.( and it should have been at the stop before depressing the pedal. If not, loosen
the tuning nut away from the finger, retune the open B, then the C# at the tuning nut. Again check to see that the scissor is at the stop plate, then depress again, if it does not go all the way to the stop, chances are the spring has lost some tension. If it has screws that will pull it tighter, turn them a fer round, try again.
If they aren't adjustable, remove it ,cut about three coils off and rebend the hook, reinstall.You didn't say what kind of guitar or it's condition, but this is a common problem.
Hope it helps.
Jim, Lone Star Steel Guitar |
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Kenny Brown
From:
Auburn, Alabama, USA
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Posted 19 Aug 2007 5:38 pm
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jim, thank you for your response. my guitar is an Emmons student guitar 3&1. At the end plate, two rows of allen head screws corresponding with each finger, defintely not an "all Pull" guitar. I have also noticed my low B is not affected at all by this situation.
I'm going to give your suggestions a shot. I appreciate it! |
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jim flynn
From:
Salado,Texas
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Posted 19 Aug 2007 6:03 pm Don't do it!!
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Kenny, don't loosen the socket head screw for the 5th yet.
It's for tuning the raise. Do check the springs to see that they are at the stop and return after activating.
Also lightly lube the rollers at the nut, they may not be rolling.!
Jim |
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Kenny Brown
From:
Auburn, Alabama, USA
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Posted 19 Aug 2007 6:07 pm
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I didnt turn out any of the screws. all the springs are returning to the stop, no probs there.
I'll check the roller pin.
thanks! |
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richard burton
From:
Britain
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Posted 19 Aug 2007 11:24 pm
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Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
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Posted 20 Aug 2007 3:07 am
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Always start by backing off BOTH B string Raises, the A ped and the C Ped.
Always do the simple obvious first. |
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Craig A Davidson
From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
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Posted 20 Aug 2007 3:20 am
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| Also check and see if the string hasn't slipped between the fingers on the changer. Mine did the same thing once. |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 20 Aug 2007 4:22 am
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| Also check to see if the ball end of a broken string is lodged in the changer (if you've broken any strings). |
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Kenny Brown
From:
Auburn, Alabama, USA
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Posted 20 Aug 2007 4:22 pm
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problem solved. nothing major other than a little oil on the changer. problem went away that quickly.
thank yall for your responses very much. |
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Tamara James
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Posted 21 Aug 2007 5:26 am
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| Kenny Brown wrote: |
problem solved. nothing major other than a little oil on the changer. problem went away that quickly.
thank yall for your responses very much. |
Every 3 thousand miles you should do that. Rotate the legs and get it a lube job.
Did you use 3-in-one? I guess that is what should be used, but I don't know that for sure. I over-use WD-40. I gotta quit doing that. |
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Brandon Ordoyne
From:
Needville,Texas USA
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Posted 21 Aug 2007 6:07 am
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I wouldnt use 3-in-1 oil or WD-40...thats dangerous to a steel.
I prefer Hoppes #9 gun oil
_________________
'74 Emmons D10 P/P 8x5,'15 Rittenberry D10 8x5, Peavey Nashville 112, 400 & 1000, Fender Twin Reverb Tone Master, Hilton, Goodrich L120, Boss DD-3 and RV-3 |
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Tamara James
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Posted 21 Aug 2007 8:07 am
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| Brandon Ordoyne wrote: |
I wouldnt use 3-in-1 oil or WD-40...thats dangerous to a steel.
I prefer Hoppes #9 gun oil |
Must have been a good question. If you are serious. I have some gun oil. I clean my guns with it once a month. Never thought about using it to clear up a sweak. I'll get a second opinion and see what happens. Thanks for the information. |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 21 Aug 2007 8:22 am
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Hi Tamara. I'll give a second opinion. If you are going to use oil, use a very highly refined type. Hoppes is said to be very good, as well as a few others.
I much prefer a teflon based lube because it doesn't attract dust and grime, doesn't get thin in hot weather, and lasts a very, very long time. I like TriFlow, but there are other versions available. I've used it for many years on all kinds of mechanisms, my steels included, and think the results are far superior to any oil.
Just something to consider.
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Best regards,
Mike |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 21 Aug 2007 8:30 am
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By the way....I'd suggest you stop using WD-40 on your steel. It is NOT a lubricant, and it will eventually create lots of gummy residue that will bind things up. When it evaporates, it doesn't leave any lube. Nasty stuff for a steel.
It was designed to be a good water displacement fluid...not a lubricant of any kind. It's become popular because it can help in breaking loose stuck, rusted, or corroded parts...like hinges and bolts...and that's because it migrates well into tiny places. But doesn't really lube anything. 
_________________
Best regards,
Mike |
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Jody Cameron
From:
Angleton, TX,, USA
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Posted 21 Aug 2007 10:15 am
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deleted...didn't notice post that problem was solved. Glad you got 'er going again!
JC |
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Tamara James
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Posted 22 Aug 2007 8:21 am
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| Mike Wheeler wrote: |
By the way....I'd suggest you stop using WD-40 on your steel. It is NOT a lubricant, and it will eventually create lots of gummy residue that will bind things up. When it evaporates, it doesn't leave any lube. Nasty stuff for a steel.
It was designed to be a good water displacement fluid...not a lubricant of any kind. It's become popular because it can help in breaking loose stuck, rusted, or corroded parts...like hinges and bolts...and that's because it migrates well into tiny places. But doesn't really lube anything. |
Never did use the WD40 on the steel. I have used it on other stuff. I was temped with the 3in1, but didn't. Not much choice at 3am. If I can't sleep, I practice. I found some machine oil in my sewing machine kit. I used two drops and wiped the access right away. I found a product called Zoom recommedned on a manufacture site. I'll check your suggestion. Local music store may have some. I might look into getting some to keep in the tool box. For now, the sweak is gone. I'll be ready next time. In any case, I am sure my teacher would be delighted to sell me the right stuff, as long as I remember to ask. |
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 26 Aug 2007 1:17 am
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Hoppe's Gun Oil. . .best on the planet!!!
PRR |
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