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Post new topic 1976 S-10 MSA 3 and 6 rod locations
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Author Topic:  1976 S-10 MSA 3 and 6 rod locations
Ken Fox


From:
Nashville GA USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 7:33 am    
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Presently I have the 3rd string in the changer farther out (hole #2). String 6 is in the closer hole (#1).

Seems the 6th string is too sensitive to the pedal movement, easily flats out if the pedal moves even the slightest.

Any suggestions appreciated!
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 7:49 am    
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The 3rd and 6th string raise should work in the first or second hole (from the cross-rod). Since you said "flattening out", I have to assume you're lowering 3 & 6, too. In that case, the third hole (from the cross-rod) is a good starting location.
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Ken Fox


From:
Nashville GA USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 7:57 am    
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I only have a double raise, double lower. The sixth pulls to pitch, but the slightest movement will flatten it before the 3rd. The 3rd is pull way before the sixth when traveling as well.
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Mike Wheeler


From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 8:08 am    
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You say it "flats" out when you press hard on the pedal? Sounds like the spring attached to the lowering changer finger is not strong enough to prevent the lower finger from moving when a raise happens.

Turn her upside down and operate the pedal while watching the changer finger. If the spring moves when you apply hard pressure to the pedal, you'll need to shorten the spring a turn or two.

Is this addressing the question?
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Mike
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Mike Wheeler


From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 8:15 am    
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How many holes are in the puller finger on the crossrod?
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Mike
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Colby Tipton


From:
Crosby, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 8:23 am    
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Ken,
Are you saying that the changer finger on the 6th string(G#) is going so far that it starts to lower that string?
What Mike is saying may be the case.
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Mike Wheeler


From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 8:35 am    
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Ken, it just occured to me...do you mean that after you've pressed the pedal to raise the two strings to pitch, if you release the pressure the slightest bit, the 6th string pitch begins to drop before the 3rd string begins to drop?
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Mike
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Ken Fox


From:
Nashville GA USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 11:03 am    
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That's it Mike! They pull to pitch perfectly. The sixth will go flat quickly with the slightest release of the pedal. Sometime I do not get the pedal all the way engaged, seem a bit hard and that makes her flat, too!
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Mike Wheeler


From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 11:43 am    
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Ken, I sent you an email.
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Mike
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Colby Tipton


From:
Crosby, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 12:19 pm    
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Out of time.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 16 Jul 2007 1:26 pm    
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You can always go to a lighter string. That would give more movement required (to pull to the same pitch), as well as less effort required. I use a .024w on the 6th string, but you might try a .022 wound. Still, it seems the most "touchy" pedal on the E9th, and it's that way on just about every steel I've ever tried. Confused

Making the pedal a little higher, along with removing some slack in the pulling train, may also help with your perceived "flattening" problem. Just keep in mind that you want just a little slack to allow for tuning variations.
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Mike Wheeler


From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 17 Jul 2007 5:56 am    
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Ken, here's the basic solution. Not knowing how many holes your bellcranks have, I'll assume you have 4.

The goal is to make both pulls start and finish at the same time...I call that balancing the pulls. You seem to currently have the 6th string pull very short compared to the 3rd string. So, lengthening the 6th string pull and shortening the 3rd string pull should bring them closer into balance.

The 3rd string rod needs to be in the first changer hole, and the 3rd, or 4th, bellcrank hole. This will make this pull happen more quickly.

The 6th string rod needs to be in the first changer hole and the first bellcrank hole. This will make this pull longer, to more closely match the 3rd string pull.

After making the changes above, you can experiment with different bellcrank positions in order to achieve the desired results. It will depend on the string guages you have, but you should be able to get real close.

By the way, regarding the bellcrank holes, the farther from the body, the stiffer the pull. The same goes for the changer, but the effect isn't as pronounced.

Hope this helps.
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Mike
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Ken Fox


From:
Nashville GA USA
Post  Posted 17 Jul 2007 6:25 am    
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Thanks, Mike. That is exactly the info I needed. I will get it on the bench soon and play around with it.


Much appreciated, guys!!
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