Can older Sperzels be lubricated?

Harvey Richman · From: Georgia, USA

Never had a guitar with Sperzels before. I'm giving an older guitar (circa late 70s) some much needed attention and a few of the machines feel like some fresh lube wouldn't hurt. If you take the button off a Grover, the geared shaft comes right out. I've tried a few of these Sperzels and the shaft drops about 1/8" and that's it. Any Sperzel experts around? Thanks in advance.
HR

Jack Stoner · From: Kansas City, MO

Looking at the old ones I have it doesn't look like here is any way to get into them. I replaced the Sperzel's (both necks)on my Franklin last year with new ones. I had one that was bad and several others that had tight and loose spots in them as they were turned. After 25 years of use I decided to replace them. The new Sperzels are as "smooth as butter" and better than the old ones were when they were new.

Harvey Richman · From: Georgia, USA

Thanks Jack. I kind of thought that but wanted to check with some more experience players. The new ones must really be something as most of these still have a very nice feel to them compared with other brands I've used.
HR

Paul Redmond · From: Illinois, USA

When I bought my BMI S-10 in 1979, it came equipped with the then-new Sperzel low-profile tuners. I have since shortened that guitar 4 inches to convert it to keyless. I have been tinkering with a vintage Miller S-10 and decided to install the Sperzel's on that guitar. Before doing so, I soaked them for about an hour in lacquer thinner and blew them out good with an air hose. I repeated that process a few times, oiled them up good with Hoppe's Gun Oil before installation, and they are now as good as new and work freely.
PRR

Harvey Richman · From: Georgia, USA

Hi Paul, thanks very much for your reply. Can you give me some more detail as to exactly where and how you get the oil into them? That's what I can't figure out. I know you have to take the button off. Will the oil seep down into them if you stand them upright and pour some around the shaft on top or do you need to pull the shaft down the 1/8" or so it will go and apply it from the bottom?
Thanks in advance.
HR

Paul Redmond · From: Illinois, USA

I applied it along the side of the 1/4" shaft and just let it seep in by capillary action turning the key every so often. I always over-oil them, then set them upright on a rag to let the excess work its way back out onto the rag before nutting them onto the peghead
PRR.

Harvey Richman · From: Georgia, USA

Thanks very much Paul. I'll give it a shot.
HR

Casey Lowmiller · From: Kansas

What Paul said!!!

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

Paul's method sounds great for tuners. I'd only add not to use lacquer thinner as a cleaning solvent on *open* parts - changers, crosshafts, open tuners etc. It leaves a slight film that is sticky and attracts dirt like mad - not so bad with an enclosed tuner, but a bad idea where dirt and dust float around. For open parts, use a non-residue solvent like acetone or Nathpha (lighter fluid) - which I actually use on tuners as well just because I don't want even the slightest sticky substance on parts. And even though I use Tri-Flow dry Teflon lube on almost everything, on tuners I still use sewing machine oil - light viscosity and probably pretty similar to gun oil...except on open tuners where dry lube keeps the dirt from collecting (you just have to lube them more often).
_________________
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Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
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Harvey Richman · From: Georgia, USA

Thanks guys. I appreciate the info.
Best
Harvey

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