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Topic: Making a pull change on a Derby ? |
Bo Borland
From:
South Jersey -
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Posted 30 Mar 2007 11:01 pm |
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This should be relatively simple, moving a knee lever change from the G# (6) string to the F# (7) string making it raise a full step.
Except for being very crowded underneath, it looks like there will be a way to run the rod without any trouble.
In an attempt to save time, I am looking for info on what holes to use.
The lever already raises F# (1) a full tone and Eb (2) a half tone.
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Bo Borland
Rittenberry SD10 , Derby D-10, Quilter TT12, Peavey Session 400 w/ JBL, NV112, Fender Blues Jr. , 1974 Dobro 60N squareneck, Rickenbacher NS lapsteel, 1973 Telecaster Thinline, 1979 blonde/black Frankenstrat
Currently picking with
Mason Dixon Band masondixonband.net |
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Tim Bridges
From:
Hoover, Alabama, USA
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Posted 1 Apr 2007 1:29 am
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Bo,
I used to own a Derby...Great Guitars! Make sure you put the rod in the top hole in the changer to give you the longest pull. The holes on the bellcrank will kinda be up to you. That'll be more of how long, or short of a pull you want. Don't forget to adjust your split tuners. |
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Charlie McDonald
From:
out of the blue
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Posted 1 Apr 2007 3:33 am
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Actually, the changer hole you use might vary since you want to get both F#'s->G#'s timed together.
The 7th wound might need only half what the plain 1st would need in terms of pull at the crank. If a Derby has lots of holes in the crank, it's easy enough to estimate. But if only, say, 4 holes in the crank, you might have to put str. 7 one hole lower than str. 1 and use the second hole in the changer to slightly retard the pull to get it to match the str. 1 pull. Takes a little experimentation.
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Those that say don't know; those that know don't say.--Buddy Emmons |
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Bo Borland
From:
South Jersey -
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Posted 2 Apr 2007 3:34 am
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I can hardly believe it- Sucess the first time out!
I disconnected the pull rod and put it back into the lowest hole in the raise finger. Then as I was about to move the pulling finger, I realized it was already inline for the rod. (It had been lowering the 6 string & now is raising the 7th.)
I adjusted the rod to pull in synch with the #1 rod and when I turned the steel over all I had to do was fine tune it. I now have the full 3 raise lever that PF uses and magically it has a feel stop on both F# strings when they reach G. Guess either I must be living right! 
Charlie, Thanks for an amazing steel!
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Bo Borland
Rittenberry SD10 , Derby D-10, Quilter TT12, Peavey Session 400 w/ JBL, NV112, Fender Blues Jr. , 1974 Dobro 60N squareneck, Rickenbacher NS lapsteel, 1973 Telecaster Thinline, 1979 blonde/black Frankenstrat
Currently picking with
Mason Dixon Band masondixonband.net |
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