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Author Topic:  MSA Semi-Classic
David Fields

 

From:
South Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 24 Mar 2007 7:08 pm    
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Anyone know much about them? The one I am looking at is a 74 model semi-clasic 3X4. Does it hold it's value? What should it be worth? Anyone heard the sound of one? Where could I get a case for one? Thanks for all the information.

Dave
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Chris LeDrew


From:
Canada
Post  Posted 24 Mar 2007 10:47 pm    
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Hi David,

I've noticed that you are looking for a decent used guitar at a good price. The one thing you need to keep in mind is whether or not the guitar you buy has issues. There are so many things that can go wrong with a used pedal steel. The Semi-Classic is probably okay, but it's definitely 30 years old and most likely in need of a good going-over.

I've been playing about 7-8 years now, and still my 30 year-old Sho~Bud can throw me curveballs on stage with a loose stop screw, a tight nylon tuner sharpening or flattening an open string, a roller nut causing a string to return sharp, etc. (And I know this guitar inside out.) These are all things that can and will happen with a used guitar, especially a Maverick or something like that. You really should look at selling some gear to get a steel from a dealer. That's what I did. I sold an AC30 and bought an MSA from Al Brisco in Canada, a very experienced steel guitar player and mechanic who sent me the guitar lubricated, set up and ready to play. Used is fine, but it needs to be maintained before you get it. If not, you could be in for a headache.

I know it's hard to part with gear, but it's harder to find a steel in the $500 range that's not going to be troublesome - unless, of course, it's a Carter Starter or something. In fact, that may be your best bet. At least you know it's not too old and is probably in good enough shape not to keep you occupied with issues unrelated to learning. There will come a time when you'll learn and become proficient at knowing the ins and outs of the mechanics, but for now you need a guitar that works properly. I'd say grab a Carter Starter.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2007 10:28 am    
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Dave, the MSA "Semi-Classic" is essentially the same guitar as the "Classic" model, except for some mostly cosmetic changes. The design is pretty much bullet-proof, very rugged and reliable. (No cheap "pot metal" parts like some Sho~Buds, and not a lot of "plain steel" parts that are prone to rust, like some old Emmons' guitars.)

The 3+4 configuration will keep you busy for a few years. It's a very good starter guitar, and they usually go for around a grand.
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James Cann


From:
Phoenix, AZ
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2007 12:24 pm    
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Quote:
The 3+4 configuration will keep you busy for a few years.It's a very good starter guitar, and they usually go for around a grand.


As I remember my SCS-10, 4+2 was the max. configuration, but, age issues aside, yes, it would serve well as a starter rig. It did, however, seem a bit smaller in body dimension than did the S-10 of the time.

I don't think I've ever seen one to sell for as much as a grand.
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Larry Jamieson


From:
Walton, NY USA
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2007 12:34 pm    
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I started out on a semi classic. It was very similar to a classic, only it only had one knee lever. It was trouble free, and I played it for twenty years before trading up to a guitar with more knee levers. If this one has four, I would bet somebody added two or three on later.
The tone on the old MSA's was OK, not as good as a Sho-Bud or an Emmons for my taste. I had an older classic for the last few years and I put a Lawrence XR16 pickup on it. To me, it sounded good.
If the guitar you're looking at is in good mechanical condition, it is worth the money.
Larry J.
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Harvey Richman

 

From:
Georgia, USA
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2007 5:03 pm     MSA steels
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Hi David. I think if the guitar you are looking at is in good condition, it is well worth considering. MSAs are precision built and mechanically excellent. A good one would be a good player and a solid investment.

Re. value, if it is very good to excellent, has all matching msa original parts (or real close), and a clean solid case, I would think in the $800+ range based on what I've seen recently. Less than that with poorer condition accordingly.

If you are not really knowlegeable about steels yet, you do need to be careful, as indestructable as MSAs are, look for excessive wear and other clues to very high hours or any signs of damage. If you post some pics on the forum I'm sure you'll get lots of opinions.

PS If you decide against the the MSA semi in favor of a Carter starter, GFI, or other instrument, I wouldn't mind getting in contact with the MSA seller.......nuff said!
HR
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David Fields

 

From:
South Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2007 5:42 pm     Pictures of Semi Classic
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Sending some pictures of the semi classic. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks!

Dave


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Bruce Hamilton

 

From:
Vancouver BC Canada
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2007 6:36 pm    
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Hi David
With the exception of a Fulawka D-10 which I began on the MSA Semi-Classic was my first new guitar back in 1973. The guitar was bullet proof! But one thing you will probably have to do is drill out the 2nd end plate hole on the 4th string raise. This will give you the ability to raise the E string to give you the F pedal change. Anyone with a steady hand can probably accomplish this. For some reason MSA gave the buyer the Classic changer but did not drill out the end plate to let them have access to all the raises and lowers.
Beyond that there is not much that can get in your way with one of these guitars.
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David Fields

 

From:
South Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2007 7:53 pm     ???
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Not sure what you meant by the drilling out the endplate Bruce. I do not know anything about a steel. I have yet to touch one.
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Bruce Hamilton

 

From:
Vancouver BC Canada
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2007 8:20 pm    
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If you look at the end plate where all the nylon tuners are you will notice that there are two rows of holes. The changer mechanism on the other side of the endplate actually has four holes for each string. Two for raises and two for lowers. It is common to raise the 4th string twice, once to F# with the third pedal and once to F with a knee lever. To get the second raise you would have to drill through the end plate to allow you to use the second raise hole. The hole has to be drilled so that it lines up directly with the hole on the changer. When I had my semi-classic I was lucky to be talking to a friend of mine who was a metal shop teacher and he took one look at it and without hesitation used my hand drill to complete the job. If he hadn't been there I sure wouldn't have had the nerve to do it.
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Steve English


From:
Baja, Arizona
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2007 8:22 pm    
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That guitar could use a little tweaking in the way of bellcrank and pull rods alignment! Might make some of the pedals feel a little smoother......
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Chris LeDrew


From:
Canada
Post  Posted 25 Mar 2007 8:46 pm    
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I'm surprised no one has pointed out the bent 1st string changer finger.
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David Fields

 

From:
South Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 26 Mar 2007 7:18 am    
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I am just bumping this up seeing if anyone else would look at the pictures of this Semi. Thanks!
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Jerry Heath


From:
Harrah, Oklahoma, USA
Post  Posted 26 Mar 2007 7:52 am    
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I just sold my Semi-Classic a few weeks ago. It was a 3+3 and it brought $725 on e-bay. As stated in an earlier post these guitars are great starter guitars, I had mine about 20 years before selling it. It was my practice guitar and the only reason why I sold it was because my main guitar is a universal. I replaced it with a Lacquer MSA U-12 Very Happy .
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Michael Johnstone


From:
Sylmar,Ca. USA
Post  Posted 26 Mar 2007 8:46 am    
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I'm not sure if the finger is bent or just pushed out of position and able to be pushed back. Yeah the missing holes need to be drilled and MSA parts are easy to find. Anyone with a smattering of mechanical apptitude can do the job plus whatever other tweaking is needed. My first good steel was a black Classic S-10 with 5+4 and it kept me busy for several years. The whole thing about MSAs don't sound as good as other guitars was more true in the 60s and 70s than now. I'll give you an example - I got rid of that guitar in 1975 so I could get a D-10 Sho-Bud Professional and moved on thru 6 or 7 other steels since then. But in 2003,a guy called me and said he heard I restored pedal steels and had one for me to work on and - you guessed it - it was my old MSA. I took it apart down to the last screw, cleaned each and every part,reassembled the thing and sat down and played it thru a modern steel rig and guess what - not only did it play like butter,it sounded fine to my ears. Back in the the early 70s,everyone was playing thru Fender Twins which pretty much sound the way they sound - the tone controls don't really do much. I remember my MSA sounding thin and kinda harsh thru a Twin but in 2003 thru a modded Peavey Nashville 400 with its parametric EQ w/sweepable mids I was able to dial in a damn good tone even with the stock pickup - fat, clean and twangy. That's a good thing too because the stock pickups are narrow as is the cavity they reside in. So if one were looking into replacing it with a modern pickup,the cavity would have to be routed larger. A better bet would be to take the stock pickup to Jerry Wallace for a re-wind if you were unsatisfied with the stock sound. But hey that guitar could be just fine and the right guy could probably get 5 or 6 knee levers on there and even with 4,you'd have a lot of guitar for the forseeable future.It wouldn't hold you back - that's for sure.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 26 Mar 2007 7:28 pm    
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Quote:
But one thing you will probably have to do is drill out the 2nd end plate hole on the 4th string raise. This will give you the ability to raise the E string to give you the F pedal change.


Since this guitar does have 4 levers, I'd be very surprised if someone (or the factory) didn't make that modification already.
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