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Topic: neck separation |
Bo Borland
From:
South Jersey -
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Posted 29 Mar 2006 11:53 am |
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| Guys, I have a 76 Dobro #60 square neck. It has never been opened. The neck is starting to gap a little at the heel. When I open it, what should I expect? How is the neck attached and can I tighten it up? Thanks |
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Roy Thomson
From:
Wolfville, Nova Scotia,Canada
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Posted 29 Mar 2006 12:53 pm
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I had the same problem with mine a number of years ago.
I took it to a Guitar Repair Shop. They reattached the neck with bolt and nut,,,no
other choice. Good job! They hid there work
well too.
If you haven't already done so take the strings off and get the tension off the cone.
------------------
http://www.clictab.com/RoyT/Roy_Thomson_Steel_Courses.htm |
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Bo Borland
From:
South Jersey -
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Posted 30 Mar 2006 7:52 pm
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| Thanks ROy, anyone else ever open up a Dobro? I am wondering how the necks are put in .. set , glued or bolted. |
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Jerry Overstreet
From:
Louisville Ky
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Posted 30 Mar 2006 9:56 pm
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Bo, I had a squareneck 1988 model that had some separation. When I installed a Q cone in it, I just added a thicker shim under the "stinger". Mine just had a screw or bolt attachment. I experimented with different thicknesses of hardwood shims 'til I got it pretty close. The neck wasn't warped and that took care of the problem for me.
There are several reso experts here on the forum and I defer to them as to whether this is a proper adjustment for this problem.
TTodd Clinesmith, Gregg McKenna et al
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Bo Borland
From:
South Jersey -
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Posted 7 Apr 2006 1:52 pm
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I opened it up today, very interesting stuff in there.. jan 1975 penciled on the wall..
The neck has a long tang or stinger.. that has one wood screw thru it .. a shim underneath into a block glued to the inside of the guitar back. The neck has a slight warp and fret 12 from having extra heavy strings in an E tuning..( my fault).
I don't think a thicker shim will help since there is a warp.
I may have to put in the wood screw, counter sunk from the outside, into the block under the heel if I want to put regular gauge dobro strings on .
Any thoughts from the experts and builders?
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Bryan Bradfield
From:
Lethbridge, Alberta, Canada.
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Posted 7 Apr 2006 5:12 pm
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Bo -
The tang or stinger, as you call it, is what I call a dowel stick, kind of like in a banjo. My pre-war dobro has one. It is rectangular in cross section, and is glued into a straight slot in the neck beneath the finger board. I always felt that this joint would liquify and slip, if enough heat was present. I recommend that a joint of this type should have a hole drilled on the side of the joint on either side, and a round wood dowel should be glued in place in these 2 holes, to prevent the neck lifting upwards when the glue fails. Your description seems to indicate that there is a bend in the fingerboard right at the 12th fret, or body joint. If you removed the fingerboard, it would be apparent whether these dowels are needed. If there has been slippage, you would want to remove the dowel, reglue it, and then add the dowels. |
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