| Author |
Topic: Sho-Bud Pro III underneath soaked in oil? |
Stu Schulman
From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
|
Posted 5 Jan 2007 7:58 pm |
|
| The guitar player in my band bought an old Sho-Bud Pro III a while back and brought it to me to tweak,and tune so he can get started playing it.The under carriage is brown everywhere from too much oil,the good news is everything works fine,and the oil did not soak into the Lacquer finish.I understand that this will take a while to clean up,but I want to do it for him.What should I use?All recommendations are welcome..Thanks,Stu |
|
|
 |
Mike Vallandigham
From:
Martinez, CA
|
Posted 6 Jan 2007 9:56 am
|
|
Some sort of clean solvent is best, applied by hand, using like an old t-shirt torn up. Take apart as neessary. Also, use lots of elbow grease.  Something like Bug and Tar Remover, or whatever wont mess up your hands or the finish. I think lighter fluid is oily, so stay away from that. |
|
|
|
Tony Prior
From:
Charlotte NC
|
Posted 6 Jan 2007 1:15 pm
|
|
be sure to work in a very ventilated area as the solvent outgases WILL cause you harm. Just because you may not smell it right away does not mean it's not there, it is.
When I cleaned my Emmons Legrand last year ( 2005) although it was not near a gooked up as the Pro III sounds, I disassembled as much as possible, cleaned and polished the parts either outdoors or in the garage the reassembeld with the parts already cleaned.
it's a slow process but so is restoring an old car.
good luck
t |
|
|
|
Stu Schulman
From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
|
Posted 6 Jan 2007 2:30 pm
|
|
| Mike,and Tony thanks for all of the help,I'm going to the hardware store now,I might hold off until it warms up,it was minus 4 when I woke up..so it's hard to leave a window open,I didn't think of that,Stu |
|
|
|
Alan Brookes
From:
Brummy living in Southern California
|
Posted 6 Jan 2007 4:08 pm
|
|
You didn't mention what sort of oil. Some oils dissolve plastic, and if you happen to have an instrument with plastic sleeves or washers the oil is bad news indeed. Otherwise the main problem of the oil is just that it's messy and collects dust. The first step is to get some paper towels and soak up as much as you can.
On the subject of oil, I tend to use Vaseline on joints. It stays put and has no effect on plastics. |
|
|
|
Stu Schulman
From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
|
Posted 6 Jan 2007 5:49 pm
|
|
| Alan..I'm not sure what kind of oil was used?My guess is 3 in 1 and it's dried up now,and there is a layer of dust in the oil.I'll post some photos when I get home from work tonight..Stu |
|
|
|
Larry Clark
From:
Herndon, VA.
|
Posted 6 Jan 2007 8:45 pm
|
|
| I think I would try to wipe away the oily residue with a dry paper towel or clean rag before considering solvents. No use replacing one bad contaminate with another. |
|
|
|
Ken Metcalf
From:
San Antonio Texas USA
|
Posted 7 Jan 2007 4:48 am
|
|
I was told by my builder to use electric contact cleaner.
As the gent above stated there are two or more kinds, some will be too strong.
Just READ the can and it will say disolves plastic or safe for plastics. I used this and its nice because it sprays and is easy to work with, cleans fast, wipe with rag, and evaporates quick.
Then a small amount of light oil...on moving parts... wipe off excess with a rag or paper towel.... Always do a small test spot first.
Mine was very oily, dirty and now looks like new.
Ken |
|
|
|
Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
|
Posted 7 Jan 2007 7:20 am
|
|
| Whenever I want to protect the finish on anything, including guitars, I always use rubhing alcohol on a clean rag. |
|
|
|
Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
|
Posted 7 Jan 2007 10:55 am
|
|
Yep, alcohol works great and is cheap. For the bad, dried up stuff, I use contact cleaner, or similar. I wipe everything down with TriFlo...teflon based, and won't collect dust in the future.
Any new, or used steel I get I disassemble, inspect, and fix any "bugs" I find, then lube and adjust to my liking. I also look for anything worn badly and replace it, I make sure everything is smooth and free moving. I just enjoy the work....YMMV,
_________________
Best regards,
Mike |
|
|
|
Stu Schulman
From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
|
|
|
|
Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
|
Posted 8 Jan 2007 1:36 pm
|
|
I have rebuilt some old, old Emmons p/p and I was afraid of
getting cancer just from the cigarette residue alone!  |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 8 Jan 2007 2:27 pm
|
|
| Zowie! Take a lot of pics, take it apart, take it to someone with a parts washer! That thing is feelthy! |
|
|
|
Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
|
Posted 8 Jan 2007 3:17 pm
|
|
Those pictures remind me of an old MSA I restored, years ago. I ended up removing all the hardware and cleaning each piece with WD-40. That stuff cut all the oil, grease, tar, nicotine, and gunk really well. (In my opinion, that's about the only good use for WD-40!)
Lee, from South Texas |
|
|
|
Colby Tipton
From:
Crosby, Texas, USA
|
Posted 8 Jan 2007 5:01 pm
|
|
Stu,
You can clean that up with no problem. I know the secret. E-mail me.
Colby |
|
|
|
Jon Hyde
From:
Seattle, Washington, USA
|
Posted 8 Jan 2007 8:46 pm
|
|
| Hey Stu, there's a lot of good info about cleaning Sho buds in the forum archives. I found a lot of stuff pertaining the finish when I cleaned mine. Ricky Davis has posted a lot of good info. And - I know!! - I owe you some mail. I told you I was slow! I sent you some e-mail about cleaning the changer if you want to tackle that one! |
|
|
|
Stu Schulman
From:
Ulster Park New Yawk (deceased)
|
Posted 9 Jan 2007 11:51 am
|
|
| Lee there is one more great use for WD-40 If you spray it on a hook fish will attack it,but it's illegal to fish with it. |
|
|
|
