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Topic: Old bakelite bars |
John Dahms
From:
Perkasie, Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 7 Mar 2005 3:55 pm |
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Anybody into old Hawaiian steels has come across a few "bakelite" tone bars in their case and to many of us they are addictve. The size and hardness vary and an excuse can be made for each type, tone, feel, whatever. I'd like to share my restoration method and ask for advise from others.
I have found that they can be made nearly new again by polising out grooves and nicks with a lot of patience and 600 paper. I don't go heavier so as not to score up the surface. It can take a while but it took years to booger up and an investment in an hour or so is worth it. Then apply a couple liberal soakings of Armor All to the bar and you're good for another few years.
Now my problem: I've got one bar that smells MUSTY! I can't get the stank off of it. I have it in a box of baking soda but it hasn't put a dent in it. Any suggestions? |
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Keith Cordell
From:
San Diego
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Posted 7 Mar 2005 3:58 pm
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| Kaboom! That stuff is wonderful. Soak it for a few hours, that should do it. |
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John Dahms
From:
Perkasie, Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 12 Mar 2005 6:03 am
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| Thanks, Keith. I don't have Kaboom (or know what it is) but I poured an inch of Mr. Clean in a bowl and soaked it for a few hours and it came out "daisy fresh." A coating of Armor All and we're good to go. |
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Paul Arntson
From:
Washington, USA
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Posted 12 Mar 2005 9:03 pm
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Just remember Armor All is a silicone based product, so don't expect to have anything to do with a nitrocellulose refinish after you get a few molecules of that stuff spread around your instruments. I have read that it causes fisheye defects in extremely small quantities.
Also, one thing NOT to do on those old bars is to use a buffing wheel. The high temperatures cause problems. I found out the hard way with a red Nick Manoloff that I then had to sand by hand to get rid of the black goo that the buffer put on. |
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Rick Aiello
From:
Berryville, VA USA
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Posted 13 Mar 2005 9:24 am
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I use a buffer on B6 (bakelite) bodies and necks all the time ...
Here's what I use ... Blue and White Rouge
Each has its "own" canton flannel wheel ... I use the blue first followed by the white.
A light touch is needed ...
You don't have to "lean" on them much ... and the outcome is "brilliant" ... 
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Aiello's House of Gauss
My wife and I don't think alike. She donates money to the homeless and I donate money to the topless! ... R. Dangerfield
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Paul Arntson
From:
Washington, USA
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Posted 13 Mar 2005 10:03 am
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| Good tip, Rick. It was probably the gross old wheel, the red swirly plastic, and my heavy handed approach that caused the problem. |
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Rick Aiello
From:
Berryville, VA USA
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Posted 13 Mar 2005 10:20 am
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I use just the white on this black polymer that I use with my neodymium magnet assemblies.
Its much softer than bakelite ... and will "burn" ... even with the white/flannel combo ... if I "bare down" too hard.
I really love to buff things ... I have seperate wheels "marked" for each compond/rouge ...
I'll buff anything that will hold still long enough for me to "grab" it ...  
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