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Topic: builder's ques, placement of tuners? |
Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2006 12:36 pm |
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I have it all cut out ready for filing. I went with a 12 degree slant on the peghead. I'm not sure about the position of the tuners. Looking from the top, my peghead curves in on the sides. If I line up the tuner shafts, the center button will be in more. If I keep the buttons even, the center shaft will be more outward than the top and bottom ones. I think the shafts must be lined up as if I were using a 3 inline tuner.
I will post some pictures of my progress soon.
Ron
I was thinking after the post. Every guitar I've ever seen had the tuner shafts in a line, never staggered.[This message was edited by Ron Victoria on 05 December 2006 at 01:16 PM.] |
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Randy Reeves
From:
LaCrosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2006 1:08 pm
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good question, Ron. the dimensions of the tuner itself will help you decide where to drill that hole. the distance from the tuner button and shaft will determine distance from edge.
the distance between each tuner can be determined by looking at the tuner buttons. the tuners are generally in a straight line. I dont think they should follow the curve in a headstock as I think it looks better when tuners are in line. [edit: you do need to make sure the strings run in a clear line;the tuning posts should not be in the way of one another]
I always use other instruments as guides.
and in the past have used three and three on a side tuners, not individuals.[This message was edited by Randy Reeves on 05 December 2006 at 02:28 PM.] |
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Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
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Posted 5 Dec 2006 1:38 pm
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Form follows function. The shape of the headstock should be determined in conjuction with the calculations of where the tuners will be and how the strings will run, nut to post. This illustration, while painfully obvious, demonstrates the hazards of visualizing a shape without visualizing the real-world issues:
Ooops.
Ideally, you want a straight-line continuation of the string's length, from bridge to nut to tuner post. A gentle angle from nut to post is ok. A severe angle is theoretically less desireable. But I won't swear that it is unacceptable.
I guess all I'm saying is make sure you don't paint yourself into an ooopsie like the drawing above. |
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Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2006 2:22 pm
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I copied my headstock from a kalamazoo that was on ebay. Here's the link. Are the posts inline or slightly curved?
http://i18.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/77/c9/54c2_1.JPG
Ron[This message was edited by Ron Victoria on 05 December 2006 at 02:32 PM.] |
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Mike D
From:
Phx, Az
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Posted 5 Dec 2006 5:30 pm
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What's astonishing is all companies that made production guitars and didn't do the simple exercise that Jon illustrates before making a jillion and one of them. Look at all those old Nationals that you can hardly keep the outside strings on without reverse-winding them.
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Half-assed bottleneck and lap slide player. Full-assed Builder of resonator instruments.
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Randy Reeves
From:
LaCrosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2006 6:50 pm
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in all the excitement of making a lap steel there is a good chance over thinking wins over not thinking. here is a pic of my first try.
the first tuner is 2 5/8" from the nut. the tuners are spaced 1 3/8". yow.big pic:0
 [This message was edited by Randy Reeves on 05 December 2006 at 06:53 PM.] [This message was edited by Randy Reeves on 05 December 2006 at 06:54 PM.] |
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