G6/E7 tuning for "Dobro" ?

HowardR · From: N.Y.C.-Fire Island-Asheville

I don't know if "Dobro" is resophonically correct and hope that I won't be sued for using the term.

I suppose many 6 string players as well as myself are most comfortable in G and G based tunings.

Eight and 7 string players opt for G6.

I like the C6/A7 tuning which is more suited for steel.

Low > high....A C C# E G A C E

If I lower everyhing a 4th, I'll have:

E G G# B D E G B....Before I go stringing something up, which would require me to change a nut and saddle, does anyone see any disadvantages to this G6/E7 over C6/A7?

If I base my string gauges on the 6 string G tuning.....ie. using a .056 for the 7th sting (G), would this be too heavy for a reso?

If so, I suppose that I can shift this to

G G# B D E G B D

Any thoughts?

Craig Prior · From: National City, California, USA

Howard, I keep my Dobro in C6 (lo to hi: C E G A C E). My string guages are pretty light:
1 .014 E
2 .017 C
3 .020p A
4 .024 G
5 .032 E
6 .046 C (which can be raised to C# for C6/A7)

I find this gives the guitar a nice harp quality, although I'm sure many would disagree with keeping things on the light end as such.

I also outfit that guitar with a Hipshot Trilogy so I am able to swap tunings pretty quickly. The lighter guage strings seem more amendable to having their tunings changed while staying in tune.

Your question is whether anyone sees any disadvantages to G6/E7 over C6/A7? As you indicated, for G6/E7 you'd probably want heavier guage strings. I don't see a problem with string tension on the guitar itself.

If you're like me, though, the heavier guages put more vibration through the bar, and after awhile I can really feel it in my hands and wrists. One of the nice things about the lighter strings is they are less fatiguing to play.

If that's not a problem for you, then I think it'd sound fine!

Craig.

P.S. I have heavier guages on my tricone in standard Dobro tuning, and for some reason I don't encounter the fatigue factor the way I do with C6/A7. Must be the different styles of repertoire for each instrument.

Ron Randall · From: Dallas, Texas, USA

Hi Howard,

IMHO, I would not follow the normal GBDGBD 6 string gauges. These gauges make for a lot of tension and adding 2 more tense strings make things kinda tense, haha.
If it were me, I would follow the steel guitar gauges first, which will be less tension. Check things out, then increase the gauges when you think it is right.

I say this only because of my experience with my 8 string Benoit, and converstations with Carrol and Reece. They both recommend staying with the lighter gauges due to total downward force of the bridge onto the cone.

Start small, and you can't hurt anything. http://www.hawaiiansteel.com/learning/gauges.html

Ron
p.s. Let us know how it goes. I like your idea.

HowardR · From: N.Y.C.-Fire Island-Asheville

Good points.

I'd like to see if I can come closer to a 6 string sound on 8 strings, as well as being more comfortable in G. The intervals of both tunings are the same, which shouldn't hamper my playing with more study, but I'm a hard picker and like the heavier gauges.

Ron, yes, to start lighter until I find a proper zone makes good sense. As I also mentioned, I can do away with the low E and add a high D which would save tension on the cone also. Worth a try.

BTW, that's a great name for a breakdown.... "Tension On The Cone."

Bill Bosler · From: Schwenksville, Pennsylvania, USA

Hi,Howard;

I'm not really sure what your question is, but I use Martin M140 or D'Addadrio EJ11 80/20 bronze string sets (.012-.053) on my Hound Dog dobro.

I tune E B E G# B E bottom to top.

[This message was edited by Bill Bosler on 11 May 2004 at 12:01 PM.]

Chuck Fisher · From: Santa Cruz, California, USA * R.I.P.

Howard,

My recent 8 string reso experience says 56 is too heavy for a low E , dampens the cone too much, try 52, hi
E at 13

Ron Randall · From: Dallas, Texas, USA

Tension on the Cone,
I got tension on the cone.
Gives it tone to the bone,
With tension on the cone.

Bobby Lee · From: Cloverdale, California, USA

Whatever you do, I think you should keep the high D of the standard G tuning, Howard.

I'd add a middle E and a low E (or D!) string. The low G# of an E7th isn't nearly as useful as the much higher low C# of an A7th. Proper chord voicings require wider spaces between the notes as you get lower in pitch. The low G#-B interval is a lot muddier than the midrange C#-E interval.

------------------

Bobby Lee - email: quasar@b0b.com - gigs - CDs, Open Hearts
Sierra Session 12 (E9), Williams 400X (Emaj9, D6), Sierra Olympic 12 (C6add9),
Sierra Laptop 8 (E6add9), Fender Stringmaster (E13, A6),
Roland Handsonic, Line 6 Variax

[This message was edited by Bobby Lee on 11 May 2004 at 04:25 PM.]

Bobby Lee · From: Cloverdale, California, USA

You might also consider a middle G#!

D


B


G#


G


E


D


B


G

Looks wierd, I know, but it does give you that E7th position.

HowardR · From: N.Y.C.-Fire Island-Asheville

If I swap the G & G#.....3rd string - G, 4th string - G#, I can keep the top three strings the major G triad, string 5 - 8, the G6, and strings 4 - 7, an E7 inversion, without slanting or skip grips.

Does that make sense?

Chuck Fisher · From: Santa Cruz, California, USA * R.I.P.

but you lose the strumable Em7, leaving you with the old "how do I get minor?' bit.

why not try Bobbe's C6 FACEGACE

HowardR · From: N.Y.C.-Fire Island-Asheville

Yes, Chuck. Us steelers are always on that old see saw. To gain one thing is to give up another.

I want to try the G variation for tone. I think I'll try b0b's tuning with Ron's string gauge suggestion. I can alternate the G & G# to see what works best for me.

Once again, there's nothing like this forum. I can't ever remember not seeing a solution(s)to a problem posted, in any section here.

Al Marcus · From: Cedar Springs,MI USA (deceased)

Howard-Your last statement is very true.

This Forum is great for a steel guitar player.........al

------------------
My Website..... www.cmedic.net/~almarcus/

Tony Dingus · From: Kingsport, Tennessee, USA

Here's a tuning I've been playing around with on a coverted 7 string. Strings 1 thru 7- E,F#,D,B,G,D,B. I'ver always loved the ped-a-bro and not just the pedal bends but, the things that you play on the first 3 or 4 strings so this tuning lets me do that. I play bluegrass style G tuning so I've not changed my tuning only added to it. Strings 1 thru 4 are your D9 and D6 licks and even G6.
Tony

John Kavanagh · From: Kentville, Nova Scotia, Canada * R.I.P.

I use GBdegbd'e'. I agree with b0b's about the low G# not working as well as the low c# in C6. I find bending that g 4th string up to g# easy and fun. Sometimes I lower the G to E. I use light strings (.050 to .013), but it's not a resonator guitar so that's not relevant.

HowardR · From: N.Y.C.-Fire Island-Asheville

As well as pulling and letting out of the 3rd string B (2nd string on six string G) for a nice pedal effect. That's one that I often use and like a lot.

[This message was edited by HowardR on 14 May 2004 at 10:29 AM.]

Doug Seymour · From: Jamestown NY USA (deceased)

I just joined the dobro world & the one I wound up with has a wooden bridge? Can that be changed to something else and would that give a bit more sustain or volume? Help! I know nothing. It is a metal body, round neck, Regal. I tuned to GBDGBD low to hi & after playing a bit, I'm an old C6th-er, I find I'm thinking of BDEGBD. Does that make any sense to you experienced dobro artists?

[This message was edited by Doug Seymour on 15 May 2004 at 01:33 PM.]

Forum Index > Steel Without Pedals		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: