Rich Paton
From:
Santa Maria, CA.,
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Posted 18 Feb 2000 12:46 am |
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That sort of problem is often caused by a short-duration arc from a loose connection somewhere in the circuit, could be anywhere fron the breaker or fuse to the lamp holder socket, or inside any electrical appliance or device.
The switch is a prime suspect, as currently they only cost an electrical contactor as low as 15-25 cents each in quantity. They are junk, and still must take the most stress of any given circuit component, from on/off cycling.
A "spec grade" switch can usually be had for $5.00 or so at a building center, and should last at least 30 years in residential use.
Make sure the lamps are all tight, and also try it without other appliances or devices connected, disconnecting them one at a time, and testing for the "pop".
Switching "upstream" from a dimmer-equipped lamp fixture is also a no-no.
A rolled-up extension cord with a load on it, particularly from any size motor, will create all sorts of humorous (only to the service electrician) effects imaginable.
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Some of the things electricity can do are very unpredictable and tedious to correct, if problematic. On the flip-side, a properly installed electrical system using quality components can be trouble free as long as the building stands.
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BTW: One of the best testers for finding the source of electrical noise is a cheap am portable radio, turned way up and between stations. Hold one near your computer monitor to demonstrate the effect. GooD LucK!
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R. |
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