How Hard is This Repair?

James Quillian · From: San Antonio, Texas, USA

Is this something an amateur like myself can do?
I just need to pull one part out and replace it with the new one BMI kindly sent me for no charge.

This is on a BMI from sometime in 80s or 90s, I think.

How hard or simple is it?

[img]

Thanks

James[/img]
_________________
Curbside Jimmy's New Act
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlzieFLE5no

David Higginbotham · From: Lake Charles, Louisiana, USA

Replacing a changer finger requires removing all the rods, tuning nuts, spacers, and removing & dismantling the changer. Not crazy difficult but take pics and notes if you’re going to do it. There’s a nylon spacer between each finger and it would be a good opportunity to clean all the parts with parts cleaner while you have it apart. I’ve refurbished several BMI’s over the years and they’re easier than some others brands I’ve done.

Dave 🙂

Dan Rollans · From: Little Rock, Arkansas, USA

I have been a long time BMI player and student of Zane Beck. I have replaced single changers before. BMI uses a small axle rod. I’m not sure of the outside diameter. Use a same size piece of rod to push the axle through to the changer being replaced. Remove only the pull rods to said changer. With some finesse you can remove and install the changer. It’s a might tedious but I have done it before.
Good luck
Dan Rollans@Steelers Choice

Duane Becker · From: Elk,Wa 99009 USA

I had an old single neck BMI from this same time period, about 20 years ago I had the same problem. Mine was the third string finger. It was pretty ruff looking with a groove in the middle. I think it was Scotty's that I called and bought a finger from, but might have been ole Ed Nayler, now passed away.
Anyway, I had no rods attached to the 1st string and the regular lower rod on the 2nd string, plus the raise on the 3rd string. First, I loosened all the strings, just enough to take tension off the changer.
I disconnected the rods from the 2nd and 3rd fingers, and very carefully started to gentle tap on the pin that holds all the changer fingers in. The 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd finger was then loose and fell out. I stopped tapping the pin before it got to the 4th string.
I put my new 3rd finger in place holding it with plyers while gently taping the pin back the other way, then doing the same with the 2nd finger and finally the 1st finger.
I was nervous, but hey it worked. I hooked the 3rd string rod back to the changer as well as the 2-string rod.
To my amazement, after tightening all the strings back, and tuning, everything worked.
I'm not suggesting you to do this, but it did work for me, I don't repair other peoples steel, but I have enough experience over the years with pedal steel and auto mechanics. But thought you like to hear what I did.

James Quillian · From: San Antonio, Texas, USA

Thanks guys. I am convinced that I, personally, would probably be better off not doing it myself.

What would be a typical fee someone would charge to make the pair? I live in San Antonio.

I would also like to change the setup from Day o Emmons, but that is not a priority. I can get used to Day.

I also need a couple of legs for my Fessenden.
_________________
Curbside Jimmy's New Act
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlzieFLE5no

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

Is the contact surface the string rides on the problem?

Or did the 3rd string finger break the pin, And a smaller pin was put in the finger, Which does not hold string proper?

James Quillian · From: San Antonio, Texas, USA

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

FWIW, Charlie Stepp used roller bearings from an automotive U-joint for string pins on the Derby. Never heard of one of them breaking.

I have some old U-joint parts lying around. You're most welcome to a few of those rollers if you can pull the bad one out.

David Higginbotham · From: Lake Charles, Louisiana, USA

Our good friend Jerry has the best answer. Replacing that pin is the easiest and cheapest way to solve that particular problem. Changing over from Day to Emmons is a bit more challenging…but nothing that a little time, patience and using the resources here couldn’t get you through. 🙂

James Quillian · From: San Antonio, Texas, USA

[quote="David Higginbotham"]Our good friend Jerry has the best answer. Replacing that pin is the easiest and cheapest way to solve that particular problem. Changing over from Day to Emmons is a bit more challenging…but nothing that a little time, patience and using the resources here couldn’t get you through. 🙂[/quote}

I found some pins that might work
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/pins/dowel-pins-2~/undersized-dowel-pins~~/

What do you suppose is the likely diameter of the pin?

High-Strength Alloy Steel

1/16" Diameter
1/4" -0.0002" to 0" 750 Rockwell C50 — 1 98105A077 $1.96
3/8" -0.0002" to 0" 750 Rockwell C50 — 1 98105A078 2.18
1/2" -0.0002" to 0" 750 Rockwell C50 — 1 98105A079 2.56

3/32" Diameter
1/4" -0.0002" to 0" 1,400 Rockwell C50 — 1 98105A080 2.39
3/8" -0.0002" to 0" 1,400 Rockwell C50 — 1 98105A081 2.64
1/2" -0.0002" to 0" 1,400 Rockwell C50 — 1 98105A082 3.18
3/4" -0.0002" to 0" Not Rated Rockwell C48 ASME B18.8.2 1 98105A201 3.7
_________________
Curbside Jimmy's New Act
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlzieFLE5no

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

If you happen to have the pin size broken drill bit laying around, The shank/smooth part of the drill bit, Is a good replacement pin material. Tough and hard, Have to grind or cut with Dremel tool to proper length.

Forum Index > Pedal Steel		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: