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Topic: Fender Deluxe Refinishing & Chrome Buffing Questions |
Mark Helm
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2024 7:25 am |
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Hey, folks!
Just bought what looks to be a late 50's/early 60s Fender Deluxe 8. Electronics and everything are in great shape, but a lot of the paint's peeled off the body.
Now, I've refinished a Dual Pro before and it turned out nice (see pics below), but I'd welcome any tips from others who have done it. I think I'm just going to sand off the remaining paint and clear-coat it.
I'm a little worried about getting the fretboard up without damaging it (the fretboard on the one above was ruined, but I was lucky to find the ones I put on).
Also, anybody know if the chrome damage can be buffed off and shined (I'm sure some car guys might know?
Anyway, thanks! Any advice much appreciated!.
_________________
Remington Steelmaster S8 w/ custom Steeltronics pickup. Vox MV-50 amplifier + an 1940's Oahu cab w/ 8" American Vintage speaker. J. Mascis Fender Squire Jazzmaster, Hofner Club bass, Ibanez AVN4-VMS Artwood Vintage Series Concert Size Acoustic Guitar. 1920s/30s Supertone Hawaiian-themed parlor guitar. Silvertone parlor guitar. |
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Bill Groner
From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
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Posted 26 Nov 2024 9:10 am
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Pits are the PITS!  Buffing mimics what is there. At least that is what I found to be the case. 
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
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Jack Hanson
From:
San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2024 11:45 am Re: Fender Deluxe Refinishing & Chrome Buffing Questions
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| Mark Helm wrote: |
Also, anybody know if the chrome damage can be buffed off and shined (I'm sure some car guys might know?
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A few years back I acquired an old Ultratone that's paint was in the process of flaking off, so I decided to take a chance on refinishing it. It was an arduous endeavor, but the repaint turned out alright, using StewMac Colortone rattlecans:
Its trapezoidal chromed metal pickup and bridge mounting plate was badly corroded and pitted. I found a specialty plating shop in Tucson that specializes in plating motorcycle parts who was able to strip the old plating and re-plate it as good (if not better) then new, and for a reasonable price:
https://www.cmf-capitalmetalfinishing.com/ |
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Bill Sinclair
From:
Waynesboro, PA, USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2024 1:24 pm
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About 30 yrs ago, when I was living in Nashville, I took some vintage car parts to a place in East Nashville for chrome plating. Might have been S&H in Madison. They've been around that long. Whoever it was did a good job - the door handles and exterior parts are still looking good 30 years later. If you don't have any luck getting a decent quote from a plater, I've got a control plate for a Deluxe 8 I'd sell you for $70 shipped. It's not perfect, you can see some pitting in the picture, but it looks better than the one that's on there now.
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Mark Helm
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 26 Nov 2024 5:30 pm Re: Fender Deluxe Refinishing & Chrome Buffing Questions
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Thanks so much guys!!!
Bill, I sent you a PM.
And, Jack, what did you use to strip the paint?
_________________
Remington Steelmaster S8 w/ custom Steeltronics pickup. Vox MV-50 amplifier + an 1940's Oahu cab w/ 8" American Vintage speaker. J. Mascis Fender Squire Jazzmaster, Hofner Club bass, Ibanez AVN4-VMS Artwood Vintage Series Concert Size Acoustic Guitar. 1920s/30s Supertone Hawaiian-themed parlor guitar. Silvertone parlor guitar. |
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Jack Hanson
From:
San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 27 Nov 2024 7:10 am Re: Fender Deluxe Refinishing & Chrome Buffing Questions
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| Mark Helm wrote: |
| And, Jack, what did you use to strip the paint? |
This stuff:
I scraped off the excess stripper and old paint with a plastic putty knife to do the least harm as possible to the maple body, and followed up with lotsa hand-sanding, using 180, 220, 280, and 320-grit papers. |
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George Piburn
From:
The Land of Enchantment New Mexico
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Posted 27 Nov 2024 7:47 am Wire Brush
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Using a Brass Wire Bush , with that Stripper, can help get into the pits and ware-mark gouges.
Definitely wear long rubber gloves, - eye protection , and a respirator, those chemicals are brutal.
Allowing the stripper time to soak in and decompose the paint is a must too.
Get a lot of newsprint and paper towels and a trash can.
There is a "Stop" chemical but I never use it.
I may be mistaken , I believe Fender used actual Bondo Filler and Primer coats before any color,
also agree with Jack, cans from Stew-Mac work great, Less is more.
Jim Palenscar . steel guitars north county oceanside california is my choice on advice on removing the fretboard or replacing it.
Hope this will help
Mr.Boards
_________________
GeorgeBoards S8 Non Pedal Steel Guitar Instruments
Maker of One of a Kind Works of Art that play music too.
Instructional DVDs
YouTube Channel |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 27 Nov 2024 9:05 am
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It looks like the fretboard is held in place by little brads.
You can get under the fretboard and gently pry it up to loosen the brads and remove the fretboard.
Erv |
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Bill Sinclair
From:
Waynesboro, PA, USA
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Posted 30 Nov 2024 9:14 am
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Here's the bridge cover I sent
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 30 Nov 2024 9:57 am
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I don't know if that bridge cover will work or not.
It appears that his bridge doesn't have to pointy ends to hold the bridge cover.
The early bridge covers screwed down. |
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Garry Vanderlinde
From:
CA
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Posted 30 Nov 2024 12:47 pm
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The refinishing looks really pretty and I think if you're going to keep the guitar that's fine. You should definitely please yourself because it is your guitar.
...but in most cases the way to keep the most value of an item is to keep it as close to original as humanly possible.
This deluxe 8 was a prime candidate for refinishing but I decided to only polish the chrome and buff the paint.
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Travis Brown
From:
Florida, USA
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Posted 30 Nov 2024 3:11 pm
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| Garry Vanderlinde wrote: |
The refinishing looks really pretty and I think if you're going to keep the guitar that's fine. You should definitely please yourself because it is your guitar.
...but in most cases the way to keep the most value of an item is to keep it as close to original as humanly possible.
This deluxe 8 was a prime candidate for refinishing but I decided to only polish the chrome and buff the paint.
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I agree. Refinishing just means the world has one less unmolested guitar from 60 years ago. |
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Matthew Lutton
From:
Indiana, USA
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Posted 11 Dec 2024 3:45 pm
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Agreed, gives it character and shows how well it’s been loved over these many years! It must be something with that finish cuz it’s so yellow and hard to match with any lacquer pens (don’t try tv yellow for instance, terrible candidate). I like the buffed and polished example above a lot and wouldn’t hesitate to buy a piece like that!
_________________
Thanks!
Matt Lutton
Mrlutton@gmail.com
https://reverb.com/shop/matthews-boutique-2468 |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 12 Dec 2024 9:09 am
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| Guitar Reranch used to sell a tinted clear coat that worked real well to put a little "aging" to a refinish. |
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Jack Hanson
From:
San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 12 Dec 2024 11:29 am
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| Erv Niehaus wrote: |
| Guitar Reranch used to sell a tinted clear coat that worked real well to put a little "aging" to a refinish. |
Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but it's been my impression that Reranch bit the dust during the pandemic. Which is a damn shame. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 12 Dec 2024 11:31 am
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Yes, I understand they are no longer in business.
I really miss them, I used to get all my refinishing supplies from them.
From paint to sandpaper and etc. |
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David M Brown
From:
California, USA
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Posted 12 Dec 2024 12:12 pm
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All good comments.
My own take - leave it as it is. Just play it. |
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Jack Hanson
From:
San Luis Valley, USA
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Posted 12 Dec 2024 1:14 pm
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| Garry Vanderlinde wrote: |
The refinishing looks really pretty and I think if you're going to keep the guitar that's fine. You should definitely please yourself because it is your guitar.
...but in most cases the way to keep the most value of an item is to keep it as close to original as humanly possible.
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| Travis Brown wrote: |
I agree. Refinishing just means the world has one less unmolested guitar from 60 years ago. |
I would have preferred to leave my old Ultratone alone, if not for the fact that it was purchased as a basketcase. I knew when I bid on it that the fragile hinged, molded, Plexiglas headstock and bridge/pickup covers were broken and/or missing. However, I was unaware that the pickup was dead, and that the original factory paint was flaking off the thing like crazy. Literally, all you had to do was look at it, and the paint would flake off. If you played it on your lap, it would leave little flecks of paint on your Zubaz!
So, I made the executive decision to attempt a refin with rattle cans. I'm reasonably happy with how it turned out. It's nice to be able to pick it up, play it, and set it down without leaving small flakes and chips of mid- 20th Century lacquer everywhere. |
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Mark Helm
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 17 Dec 2024 3:06 pm You Guys Convinced Me: NOT Refinishing It!
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OK, Fellas--You Convinced Me: I'm NOT refinishing the guitar.
| Garry Vanderlinde wrote: |
...but in most cases the way to keep the most value of an item is to keep it as close to original as humanly possible.
This deluxe 8 was a prime candidate for refinishing but I decided to only polish the chrome and buff the paint.
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I thought it over, and something Gary said REALLY got to me: "Refinishing just means the world has one less unmolested guitar from 60 years ago."
So, Gary, how did you:
1) Get the fretboard off without bending it?
2) Buff the paint?
3) Polish the chrome (what with?)
Thanks to EVERYONE who weighed in.
_________________
Remington Steelmaster S8 w/ custom Steeltronics pickup. Vox MV-50 amplifier + an 1940's Oahu cab w/ 8" American Vintage speaker. J. Mascis Fender Squire Jazzmaster, Hofner Club bass, Ibanez AVN4-VMS Artwood Vintage Series Concert Size Acoustic Guitar. 1920s/30s Supertone Hawaiian-themed parlor guitar. Silvertone parlor guitar. |
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Mark Helm
From:
Tennessee, USA
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Posted 18 Dec 2024 2:38 pm Thanks, David!
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| David M Brown wrote: |
| My own take - leave it as it is. Just play it. |
That's what I've decided to do. Would like to do to it what Gary did to DeLuxe with the trap pickup. Just waiting to hear how he did it!
_________________
Remington Steelmaster S8 w/ custom Steeltronics pickup. Vox MV-50 amplifier + an 1940's Oahu cab w/ 8" American Vintage speaker. J. Mascis Fender Squire Jazzmaster, Hofner Club bass, Ibanez AVN4-VMS Artwood Vintage Series Concert Size Acoustic Guitar. 1920s/30s Supertone Hawaiian-themed parlor guitar. Silvertone parlor guitar. |
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Garry Vanderlinde
From:
CA
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Posted 25 Dec 2024 11:27 pm
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Here's what worked for me:
The fretboard was held down with just tacks, doesn't seem to have any glue involved.
A very thin putty knife was slid between the board and the body and gently lifted up the tacks one at a time until they could be grabbed with needle nose, pliers, and pull them out completely.
The finish was cleaned with Denatured Alcohol and naptha. Then Martin Guitar Polish was used which is compatible with the old Fender nitro finishes, and also has some wax in it that helps to protect the exposed wood. Then maybe a light buffing to smooth out the uneven parts of the finish.
Simichrome Polish or Flitz works good on the chrome.
Good Luck, have fun and enjoy your Vintage guitar  |
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David M Brown
From:
California, USA
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Posted 26 Dec 2024 5:31 am Re: Thanks, David!
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| Mark Helm wrote: |
| David M Brown wrote: |
| My own take - leave it as it is. Just play it. |
That's what I've decided to do. Would like to do to it what Gary did to DeLuxe with the trap pickup. Just waiting to hear how he did it! |
Enjoy your instrument! |
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