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Post new topic Help, please!!! Raising 1,2,7 on an Emmons LG3
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Author Topic:  Help, please!!! Raising 1,2,7 on an Emmons LG3
Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 28 Sep 2024 8:16 am    
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My brain has fried!!

I've tried several combinations (changer-hole, BC hole), but I can't get my 1st string to go from F# to G# without over-tuning!

I'm attempting to move this change from LKV to RKL.

So far, only the 2nd string is happily going from D# to E.

Could somebody help me with the optimum holes on the changer and the bell-crank for this pull?

Not only is the top string failing to reach G#, the same is happening with the 7th. It's almost there, but not quite.

At this point, I don't care if it's stiff, I want it in tune. Sad

Thanks in advance...
(I admit: I failed to note the locations when it was on LKV and was working fine!)
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Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, Quilter TT-12 & TT-15, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
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SveinungL


From:
Gjøvik - Norway - Europe - Earth
Post  Posted 28 Sep 2024 9:04 am    
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On the bellcrank end you need to use the hole furthest away from the cross shaft axle. On the changer end use the hole closest to the changer axle. This is for string 1. F# - G#

And of course you enough travel on the lever itself.
Same principle goes for string 7. If the lever feels stiff you might want to try a bellcrank hole closer to the shaft and the middle or lower changer hole on string 7.
Hope it helps. Smile
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Thanks Sveinung Lilleheier
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 28 Sep 2024 9:08 am    
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Sounds like you need to loosen the screw for the lever stop, and back it out enough to make the change. Then you probably need to adjust the lever tilt due to the extended travel.
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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 28 Sep 2024 9:32 am    
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It seems as though I didn't have enough travel, Jerry.

Unfortunately, this KL is controlled by a static plastic block screwed to the back apron. There was plenty of travel for the old B to Bb change, but not for 1,2,7.

The 'block' has two short wood-screws; the only way I can get more travel is by removing one screw and letting it rotate. Now? There's too much travel.

It does work, though, albeit with an almighty long throw.

Thanks for the quick responses, guys.
_________________
Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, Quilter TT-12 & TT-15, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
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Ian Worley


From:
Sacramento, CA
Post  Posted 28 Sep 2024 9:59 am    
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I have the string 1 & 2 change on my LeGrande II. String 1 is in the 2nd hole from the axle on the changer; 10th hole from the cross shaft on the bell crank. String 2 is in the 3rd hole on the changer, 5th hole on the bell crank. Is the lever stop like the one in the pic below? The allen screw on those adjusts the start point of the lever throw. You just need to adjust the overall throw length with that screw to accommodate the change, then re-adjust the lever angle at rest using the little grub screw in the lever base. The stop in the pic is set to work properly for the change described above.


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All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon
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Roger Rettig


From:
Naples, FL
Post  Posted 28 Sep 2024 10:03 am    
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Thanks, Ian - that's useful!
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Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, Quilter TT-12 & TT-15, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
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Steve Cattermole

 

From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 28 Sep 2024 10:50 am    
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If all these ideas don't work, call Pali, he can probably lead you through the repair
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