Help, please!!! Raising 1,2,7 on an Emmons LG3

Roger Rettig · From: Naples, FL

My brain has fried!!

I've tried several combinations (changer-hole, BC hole), but I can't get my 1st string to go from F# to G# without over-tuning!

I'm attempting to move this change from LKV to RKL.

So far, only the 2nd string is happily going from D# to E.

Could somebody help me with the optimum holes on the changer and the bell-crank for this pull?

Not only is the top string failing to reach G#, the same is happening with the 7th. It's almost there, but not quite.

At this point, I don't care if it's stiff, I want it in tune. Sad

Thanks in advance...
(I admit: I failed to note the locations when it was on LKV and was working fine!)
_________________
Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
----------------------------------

SveinungL · From: Gjøvik - Norway - Europe - Earth

On the bellcrank end you need to use the hole furthest away from the cross shaft axle. On the changer end use the hole closest to the changer axle. This is for string 1. F# - G#

And of course you enough travel on the lever itself.
Same principle goes for string 7. If the lever feels stiff you might want to try a bellcrank hole closer to the shaft and the middle or lower changer hole on string 7.
Hope it helps. Smile

_________________
Thanks Sveinung Lilleheier
----------------
My web page

Jerry Overstreet · From: Louisville Ky

Sounds like you need to loosen the screw for the lever stop, and back it out enough to make the change. Then you probably need to adjust the lever tilt due to the extended travel.

Roger Rettig · From: Naples, FL

It seems as though I didn't have enough travel, Jerry.

Unfortunately, this KL is controlled by a static plastic block screwed to the back apron. There was plenty of travel for the old B to Bb change, but not for 1,2,7.

The 'block' has two short wood-screws; the only way I can get more travel is by removing one screw and letting it rotate. Now? There's too much travel.

It does work, though, albeit with an almighty long throw.

Thanks for the quick responses, guys.
_________________
Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
----------------------------------

Ian Worley · From: Sacramento, CA

I have the string 1 & 2 change on my LeGrande II. String 1 is in the 2nd hole from the axle on the changer; 10th hole from the cross shaft on the bell crank. String 2 is in the 3rd hole on the changer, 5th hole on the bell crank. Is the lever stop like the one in the pic below? The allen screw on those adjusts the start point of the lever throw. You just need to adjust the overall throw length with that screw to accommodate the change, then re-adjust the lever angle at rest using the little grub screw in the lever base. The stop in the pic is set to work properly for the change described above.

_________________
All lies and jest, still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest - Paul Simon

Roger Rettig · From: Naples, FL

Thanks, Ian - that's useful!
_________________
Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
----------------------------------

Steve Cattermole · From: California, USA

If all these ideas don't work, call Pali, he can probably lead you through the repair

Roger Rettig · From: Naples, FL

Ian:

Yes: mine resembles yours.

Does backing off the Allen-screw a touch actually increase the effective 'throw' (or 'raise"), then?

I took the plastic block off altogether, then, as a purely interim measure (and to see if it works), I simply put a screw in without the block.

It reduces the throw (now, strings 2 and 7 are just fine, but the 1st still obstinately refuses to give me a G#), but it's no long term solution.

I'm in the 10th BC hole, but my hex is in the 3rd (or lowest, with the guitar right-way-up) raise. If I've read your post correctly, I need it in the 'middle' raise, yes?

If backing that Allen screw off adds to the functional raise, it's worth a try.
_________________
Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
----------------------------------

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Backing off the 'start' limiter effectively introduces slack in the pull rod, giving you slack that you need to crank the nylon tuner more without overtuning it.

Roger Rettig · From: Naples, FL

Thanks, Jon.

Well, I backed out the start limiter and restored the plastic 'stop' block to its original position.

I then moved the 1st string rod from raise-hole #1 (furthest from the axle) to the middle hole (where Ian's is) and, after some retuning, that KL now works with a short, positive, yet light movement.

Thanks, everyone!

Now, I need to acclimatize myself to lowering the Bs on LKV after forty-plus years of having it on RKL.

Sad

_________________
Roger Rettig: Emmons D10, B-bender Teles and Martins - and, at last, a Gibson Super 400!
----------------------------------

Forum Index > Pedal Steel		Next oldest topic :: Next newest topic

All times are GMT - 8 Hours	Jump to: